[William Miller]

Is there an adjustment on the front of the cable?
The adjustment nuts on the tube at the back are run all the way out.
(I can't make the tube any longer) The adjustment bolt on the lever is screwed almost all the way in.

I either going to have to adjust something up front or the cable has streached to the point where there is no adjustment left.

This started when I was trying to take up a little slack. My pedal goes down about 3/4" before it gets stiffer (the point where the big arm starts pushing the little arm on the shaft.) This is where you start feeling the spring pressure from the pressure plate.

I don't see one, but is there a stop that holds the pedal from coming back too far? I know about the one on the floor board, but that stop adjusts how far you can push it down.

Any ideas?

[Marc A]

Bill:

There is a turn buckle up front that is a PITA to get to. You can raise the pedal by taking out the slack there. I would be careful if your cable is stretching it's probably because several strands have broken in places you can't see.

[matt de maria]

Bill:
There is an adjustment at the clevis fork at the end of the clutch pedal lever in the tunnel. First back off the nuts on the conduit at the trans side. Then go to the clevis fork. Undo lock nut (6mm thread). Take off clevis fork clip out of fork. Thread fork and locknut down clutch cable towards rear of car. If you go too far, the thread will contact clutch pedal lever arm when assembled. Reassemble clevis fork onto pedal shaft end. tighten lock nut (not too much). Readjust the nuts on the rear of the clutch cable.

[Lucky]

Bill,

Getting to the front clevis is 90% of the pain inflicted during replacement of the cable... rather than trying to eek an extra year out of your stretched cable, just put in a new one. A new cable is about $60.

I replaced mine last summer and it really isn't that bad of a job... 1 hour from jacking up to wheels back on the ground.

[William Miller]

Thanks everyone.
I replaced the pdeal cluster bushings last summer and sorta thought I saw an adjustment on the clevis, but wasn't sure.

I'll go at it in the next few days and see how much adjustment is avalible up front. I was guessing about the streaching.Thinking it was the only possibility if there was no adjustment up front. It might be that it was replaced before and there was little slack taken out of the front at the time. (At least I'm hoping).
It is operating smoothe as silk.
How far does it run thru a tube? Asking because maybe I'll pull it out to check. If it's in a tube it shouldn't be hard to push it back in. If it's not, maybe I'll tie some bailing wire to the end so I can pull it back with the wire.

BTW, I'm going to be welding in my new lowered seat brackets to the tunnel. Which side is the fuel line on? I think I saw somewhere on the board where someone sliced a car in half. In the picture you could see a cross section of all the tubes /wires and cables.

In an attempt to be careful, I'm only welding very small sections at a time and am going to immetiately cool it off with a spray bottle.

Any ideas?

Thanks again!

[}{arlequin]

ditto what Marc and m-d-m said.

You don't really get that much out of adjusting the front section by the pedal, better to stack some washers etc at the back to take up the slack.

I suggest buying a clutch cable *now*, b/c when I thought mine was stretching, I adjusted it, twice. The third time it snapped and left me stranded.

Murph says that it will snap a day or two before your HPDC...

It's not a big PITA but big enough that if you're going to take out that cable to examine it, when you put it back, it might as well be a new one. Since your seat is out, it will be even easier- not too much contorting.

[William Miller]

I found about 3/4 of adjustment avalible on the front of the cable. I use up about 1/2". This is the before picture.
Not too bad to get to from the passengers side w/out the console.
All is well with the cable. At least for now!