[ILUCKY1]

Last season I put Bilsteins on my 996 cabrio, and it made a big improvement. I've been advised that they aren't as responsive when set to max firmness, I maybe should upgrade my sway bars, to get the Bilsteins back to mid-range and provide more adjustment margin.

Dumping the cabrio and moving to a coupe isn't an easy option, so I get to play with the car I've got.

Any advice on what sway bar upgrade I should consider (size, adjustable, etc)? I've heard of some folks putting on the GT3 sway bars. Thoughts on drop links?

Thanks!

[BikePump]

I have the GT3 Cup ones on my car.. good choice

[87turbolook911]

I put TPC adjustable sways on and love them.

[TomChan]

Originally Posted by ILUCKY1

Last season I put Bilsteins on my 996 cabrio, and it made a big improvement. I've been advised that they aren't as responsive when set to max firmness, I maybe should upgrade my sway bars, to get the Bilsteins back to mid-range and provide more adjustment margin.

Typically setting shocks at max position causes a delay in damping action. Some can feel it, some not. And some times stiffer shock setting do make a car more stable purely by masking unwanted toe steer via reduced travel/rate of travel. But to keep things short and simple, with a good set of bars 996's do well with front shock setting at 5 or 6, and rear shock setting at 2. Presuming these are PSS9(smaller number is stiffer on these).

Originally Posted by ILUCKY1

Any advice on what sway bar upgrade I should consider (size, adjustable, etc)? I've heard of some folks putting on the GT3 sway bars. Thoughts on drop links?

Lets separate the bars in to two categories: 1) bars that use OEM drop links, and 2) bars that require aftermarket adjustable links.

Least expensive are bars that use OEM drop links. Such as Eibach or H&R. Lower cost is the advantage on these. For street and track use, they will provide more roll resistance. Their advantage is also their disadvantageous by using OEM links to reduce cost the balance adjustment and overall performance is limited by the configuration of the OEM links. IMO, this catergory bars are good for up to mid-level HPDE. Not advanced level worthy consider other options.


Bars that require aftermarket adjustable links(including the links) will easily cost twice or 3x as much as bars that use OEM links. Changing links allows for the use of "motorsport" type bars with multiple adjustment holes on a (mostly) flat blade. This design allow for much better balance tuning. Two examples of this design is OEM 996 GT3(same as 996Cup) and TPC bars. OEM 996 GT3 bar in second hole from full hard is ~60% stiffer than 996 Carrera. TPC bar in second hole is another 60% stiffer than GT3. Back when 996 Cup cars were raced in Grand Am most of the teams replaced OEM GT3/Cup bars with TPC bars to get harder drive out of corner exit. TPC bars cost more than GT3 bars because they aren't produce by OEM mass production quantity so cost per unit is higher.

What's your objectives? Cost? keep OEM links or not? Street or track?

[TomChan]

OP, you also mentioned size(diameter), often bars are judged by diameter, but often bar manufactured doesn't disclose if the bar is solid or hollow and wall thickness. So without this info its hard to compare apples to apples. 996's favor hollow bars for optimum performance, particularly the rear. Unless a drift car is desired...

[ILUCKY1]

Goal is mostly track use for DEs, driving it back and forth, and some street when the car wants some exercise. Cost isn't the primary consideration. I'm open to new links.

[N0tt0N]

I have a set of front and back adjustable Tarret drop links listed for sale if that's the way you go and need them. Had them on my 986 with a GT3 front bar (adjustable) and a Tarret rear bar (adjustable).

Also, what Tom said.

[ILUCKY1]

Thanks for the great inputs!