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  #61  
Old 02-08-2007, 04:02 PM
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Kurt:

I've seen it [beefing up the footwell area] addressed two ways.

1. the way you've gone and added plate on inner well as well as a ladder frame of 1/2" bracing the curved piece you already have in your picture. [see pic below]

*still have to address cross piece by where your heels would / might be if using stock OEM pedal cluster.

** upgrading to Tilton dual MC with bias-bar and drop down pedal cluster [top hinged] eliminates the cross piece under you heel problem




2. build in an entire "footbox" off of the lower cage A pillar and two cross dash bars of the cage. This is what our friends that crashed the 993 cup ended up doing. Lots of pieces but very safe.
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  #62  
Old 02-08-2007, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurt Mickelwait View Post
... and I don't ball it up in T10 thinkin it is a '12 and braking is optional.
I get this weird tunnel vision feeling approaching T10 in the 930, starting right before the bridge. Forgetting to brake is hard to imagine.

The tub's looking fine ... sure to look better all decked out in CF!
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  #63  
Old 02-08-2007, 06:47 PM
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Sweet work Kurt. It may be a little late to point this out but that isn't the proper way to change the oil!
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  #64  
Old 02-08-2007, 08:59 PM
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BEWARE KURT!!!! Jason is just trying to get you to add more weight so that when you meet at the track and he brings one of his numerous weapons he can still have an advantage!!!!!




Quote:
Originally Posted by Jase007 View Post
Kurt:

I've seen it [beefing up the footwell area] addressed two ways.

1. the way you've gone and added plate on inner well as well as a ladder frame of 1/2" bracing the curved piece you already have in your picture. [see pic below]

*still have to address cross piece by where your heels would / might be if using stock OEM pedal cluster.

** upgrading to Tilton dual MC with bias-bar and drop down pedal cluster [top hinged] eliminates the cross piece under you heel problem




2. build in an entire "footbox" off of the lower cage A pillar and two cross dash bars of the cage. This is what our friends that crashed the 993 cup ended up doing. Lots of pieces but very safe.
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  #65  
Old 02-08-2007, 09:59 PM
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I can't decide if I am more envious of your project or your garage!
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  #66  
Old 02-09-2007, 08:39 AM
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I can't decide if I am more envious of your project or your garage!
Well I know the shop works well. I get the grins every time I walk in and flip the light switch. I spent years working in the drivway or in worse. I rebuilt an entire 21 foot boat including motor and stern drive one part at a time (except the shell) in a 2dn floor apartment) OTOH The car is a unproven item and might end up a POS.

Jase, Thanks for the pointers. I want to keep the stock pedal cluster and am still thinking/timkering on the foot well. What is in place is just the start that the reinforcment will be added to. The base plate so to speak.
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  #67  
Old 02-09-2007, 09:01 AM
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I can't decide if I am more envious of your project or your garage!
Have no doubt ... it's the garage.
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  #68  
Old 02-13-2007, 01:23 AM
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This is what I did in the back. I like to try and make things geometrically strong over material mass strong if I can. For the most part boxed structures are strong and light and I worked towards that. Origami of sheet metal follows the original build methods as well. The existing bar was of sound build but not made to hold up the rear end, motor and trans via coil overs. I did not have to nor wanted to replace the existing mounting system as the new coil overs use the same upper mounting methods as stock.

The existing strut bar was triangulated and welded to the roll bar X and the upper root points of the sheet metal strut bar were reinforced to give good purchase to the added bars as well as strongly connect the longs to the existing strut tower sockets. I added EW square tubes that are welded to the tops of both strut receiver tops and to the body of the tub. I then boxed the new tubing to the existing assembly with thin sheet metal. The firewall will be added to run from the rear box top to the existing boxed cross section sheet metal directly above. This will leave all the tubing and strut mounts inside the driver compartment and also add to the geometric strength. Little added weight but improved cross section geometry. (I think ) The welds are not cleaned up yet and I did the same treatment to the sway bar mounts. Boxed them with 1/8 X1 flat stock with a rib added in the middle and boxed with thin sheet metal after the insides were coated in rust protectant. I will add a small thin wall tube that runs from the mount face to the T bar tube for triangulation to each side. The stock mounts are weak and I am planning on running thicker than stock bars.
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  #69  
Old 02-13-2007, 02:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurt Mickelwait View Post
Well I know the shop works well. I get the grins every time I walk in and flip the light switch. I spent years working in the drivway or in worse. I rebuilt an entire 21 foot boat including motor and stern drive one part at a time (except the shell) in a 2dn floor apartment) OTOH The car is a unproven item and might end up a POS.
BTDT, although not on that scale. I was actually underneath my car a few years ago adjusting a water line and this kid "messed up parking" and nearly ran my legs over as he hopped the curb next to me and ran into the apartment building. The running joke is that I am going to build a garage with a cot and a hose to shower with.

Very impressed with the progress. Hopefully I can see parts of the build early this summer. I doubt very seriously that it will end up a POS. Nobody would take those odds with what you have done.
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  #70  
Old 02-13-2007, 09:37 AM
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Nice work Kurt.

Just a thought in case you are going to remove R valence / cross member.

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We did this [removed cross member] initially on one car and you could R&R the motor/tranny without jacking the car up . 1. remove R FG bumper 2. remove engine/tranny

HSR / SVRA scruts didn't like so we put the cross member back in but bolted it there. Ran cage to longitudinals similar to this pic for added rigidity. Also had plates on inside of longitudinals where met strut towers for twist.

Just more food for thought ... not trying to add complexity or weight as Mr. J. suggests
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