[William Miller]

I'll have a few questions as my car is finally going back together.

I installed the tie rods onto my rack yesterday. (It's all out of the car.)
The kit did not come with any springs.
I retained the springs from the old boots 2 different sizes.
I used the large ones on the inner boot and they don't seem very tight, but I think they will be fine.

The outter end of the boot fits into a grove on a rubber piece on the tie rod. The other old spring is too small. It appears that a spring may not be required.
Can someone confirm this?

Second, My car is a euro car. If I set it to Euro height is a bump steer kit needed? Is the kit just 2 spacers that go on the bolts that hold the rack onto the cross brace? My bolts are pleanty long and will accept a spacer. It's possible that it had been removed.

Third, My Boge struts had rubber bumpers on the shaft inside the dust covers. Do these go back on with Bilstien inserts?

I recall something about a spacer at the top of the strut that get's removed when lowering the car. I don't recall seeing this,but maybe that's because I assume mine was a euro car and maybe it was never raised.

[matt de maria]

1. Springs not needed. I usually spray silicone on the outer boot so the tie rod can be rotated easily for alignment and boot won't bind up.
2. Don't need bump steer kit for euro height. But it wouln't be a bad idea to ensure tie rods are horizontal for the car at loaded weight.
3. There should have been rubber snubbers for new inserts. Bilstein and boge have different ID for the snubbers. You might be able to bore out center on boge snubbers. For lowered cars I take off a little rubber from the snubbers. They are needed when the suspension bottoms out. If you can't find any call me, I might have some.

[William Miller]

Thanks Matt.

I looked at the strut inserts a little closer last night.
The new inserts came with a small rubber bushing. It fits the diameter of the top of the shaft where it goes thru the top strut mount.
I slipped the old rubber bumper onto the new insert. It went down most of the way. It also looks like the littel rubber bushing fit's in the top of the bumper. The dust cover would go on top and would get sandwiched between the bumper/bushing and top strut mount. The question now is should there be rubber isolating this or should there be metal to metal contact between the sholder of the strut and the top strut mount?

On the bump steer. again is this just 2 thick washers?

[Vicegrip]

Bump steer is caused by the tie rods being at an angle with the A arms. If they are not even when the A arm moves up and down it causes the wheel to steer right and left slightly. -Bump...Steer- You realy feel it when one front wheel moves up or down considerably more than the other.
To corect bump steer you can do some things. One is to lift the steering rack up to compensate for the A arm moving up in relation the the rest of the car from lowering. You can also purchase tie rod ends that are longer and move the joints up in relation to the rack. Very nice stuff but no stigma of low cost.$$$!

($0) Home version. Stack washers under the steering rack untill the tie rods are level with the A arms. Stack too many and the bolt will be too short or the steering linkage from the wheel will bind or hit things.

($) Version. Purchase the Weltmiester $12.00"kit" from Peformance Prod and bolt on.


Or do what I had to do. I Stacked 1/4 inch worth of washers under the rack but still have some BS so I got used to it, expect it and live with it.

[William Miller]

Thanks again everyone.

Read the directions for the bilstien shocks. (I do this sometimes.)
It said they have a built in bumper and said not to use the one that came with the car.

Kurt, thanks I'll start with 1/4" and see what it looks like after assembly and maybe instruct the alignment guy to double check since it will be a lot easier to see on the rack.

My wife had a 1990 Nissan Maxima. It had a symptom which may be the same or oppisite of bump steer. There is a curve on Rt 118 where you are driving up a relativly steep hill while turning right. At the top of the hill while still on the curve the road flattens out quickly. Not enough to get air but the front end gets light and as the suspension extends the car steers tighter into the turn for a second or 2 until the suspension get's back to normal. My analysis is as the suspension extends on the right front corner, the right front wheel turns in more than normal.

BTW I assembled the bananna arms with the brake parts and new bushings and bearings and rotors. Gonna do the front next and then rebuild the break calipers. Hoping to get this done while before the car comes back from the paint shop. It will all go back on pretty quick from that point.

One question, the left front A-Arm mount has the tow loop which is half worn on my car. I've seen little add on pieces for these but I figure I may weld on some more metal. Any reason not to use the same mount on both sides. Again, the thought came to mind before having a chance to look closely. I was also thinking of a way to beef up some jacking points while I've got everything apart. Any suggestions. Jase mentioned beefing up the rear mounts for the sway bars. Mine seem heavier than I expected. Has this maybe been already been done at the factory on late SC's?
Thanks again!