[Molly2001]

Usually during the colder months my 986 base Boxster has been sluggish to "CLICK" when I shut down and remove the key. This year it quit altogether and because that 'no click' meant that the electrical system was still engaged, the battery was drained the next time I wanted to use the car (since I didn't disconnect the battery at the time of shut down).

I guessed that the issue was the ignition switch, but after completing the install of a new one, same issue. Starter relay? Maybe? Google searches seem to return only "won't start" concerns, which isn't the issue this time.

I expect that some of you wise people know what the issue is -

Thanks for your help!!

[cmartin]

Dont fire the parts cannon, again

Start with a charged battery, how old is it? Load test (even as simple as headlights on check voltage) if it was drained down to nothing especially if older. Once battery is known good, key on, dash on? windows work? If so, check for power at starter with key in start.

[Molly2001]

Originally Posted by cmartin

Dont fire the parts cannon, again

Start with a charged battery, how old is it? Load test (even as simple as headlights on check voltage) if it was drained down to nothing especially if older. Once battery is known good, key on, dash on? windows work? If so, check for power at starter with key in start.

Battery isn't new. The issue is not cranking the car, it cranks up, a little sluggish, but cranks and runs, lamps on dash all on, windows work, etc. - the issue is the electrical system remaining active after shutting down. Would a weak battery cause that problem? If it would, I'll chase that...just doesn't seem logical. But, I'm here to ask the people that know.

This is my first Porsche, owned it for 4 years, and I remember distinctly the PPI tech pointing out the 'CLICK' at the ignition switch when the car is shut down and the key is removed - he said you must hear that or the electrical system is still active...

Thanks!

[TurboPooch]

Manual or automatic transmission? If an automatic one of the things to check for is the shifter/gear selector fully engaging in park and letting the ECU know it's not going to move so it will go to sleep. Sometimes just pressing the button a couple of times will allow a sluggish park switch to engage that may be slightly out of adjustment or sticking due to inadequate lubrication. If a manual, you might try removing the key and turning the wheel until it locks to make sure the tumbler is fully engaged and putting the car to sleep. Also check for properly working door switches that turn on/off dome lights as this signals the car to turn off and prepare to go to sleep once the doors are closed after a short period of time that is programmed into the ECU.

[Molly2001]

Originally Posted by TurboPooch

Manual or automatic transmission? If an automatic one of the things to check for is the shifter/gear selector fully engaging in park and letting the ECU know it's not going to move so it will go to sleep. Sometimes just pressing the button a couple of times will allow a sluggish park switch to engage that may be slightly out of adjustment or sticking due to inadequate lubrication. If a manual, you might try removing the key and turning the wheel until it locks to make sure the tumbler is fully engaged and putting the car to sleep. Also check for properly working door switches that turn on/off dome lights as this signals the car to turn off and prepare to go to sleep once the doors are closed after a short period of time that is programmed into the ECU.

Manual gearbox... I will confirm that the wheel lock is engaging (I think it is) and confirm the doors. I left the car yesterday for a while and the interior lights went out after a short time.

What causes the audible click? Sounds like a relay or at least something physical popping into place or out of something...maybe the new switch is doing what it should, just without the audible CLICK. I suppose that I can check for that by monitoring the battery drain after shutting down - if electronics are still active there will be drain (measurable I expect).

Thanks!

[matt de maria]

The click is from the lock cylinder not throwing the bolt to lock the steering. It also opens additional contacts when this happens. Yes you will get parasitic loss when contacts are not opened. Replace lock cylinder assy.

[cmartin]

'CLICK' at the ignition switch

ah, that click

^ listen to Matt

[Molly2001]

Originally Posted by matt de maria

The click is from the lock cylinder not throwing the bolt to lock the steering. It also opens additional contacts when this happens. Yes you will get parasitic loss when contacts are not opened. Replace lock cylinder assy.

This is (seems to be) resolved! Thanks for all the advice.

I pulled the lock set from the dash and blasted it with dry lockset lubricant as well as the lock cylinder assembly where the lock set attaches and that did it.

It was always worse when the weather was cold which suggests some thickening lube (to me anyway) and this seems to have been the issue.

Cheers! Happy New Year!

[anthonycolucci]

The most common reasons a Porsche Boxster key won't turn are a binding steering column/lock, an ignition switch issue, or a problem with the ignition key. Search our network of RepairPal Certified shops near you to speak with a technician about your issue.

[Molly2001]

Originally Posted by anthonycolucci

The most common reasons a Porsche Boxster key won't turn are a binding steering column/lock, an ignition switch issue, or a problem with the ignition key. Search our network of RepairPal Certified shops near you to speak with a technician about your issue.

Thanks - this was resolved by blasting the lockset barrel and assembly with dry lubricant (3 in 1).

My issue was never a key not turning - it was the "click" that engaged the steering column upon shut down and key removal.