[RS4Ship]

I'm currently looking for an enclosed trailer. I don't need anything fancy, but I can't have this race car taking up precious garage space any longer. I'd like something between 20-24', and preferably with Torsion axles. I have a few good leads I'm following up on from Racingjunk, but I'd really like to keep it in the family if possible and will only buy new as a very last resort.

If anyone has been considering selling their trailer please PM me, maybe I can make it easy for you

Thanks,
Jason

[HoodPin]

RacingJunk is a good source. Also check out Millennium Trailers; they have a good inventory of new & used.

FWIW, I highly recommend the heaviest duty axle you can find. For up to 26 footer, 2 6K axles with 8 lug 16" wheels would be nice & stout. And always try to get E weight-rating tires. I've heard stories of C or D tire trailers, where if one tire blows, the other on the same side blows shortly afterwards. I've had a couple instances of blowout, and the 2nd E rated tire seems to hold up well until I can find a place to pull over and swap the flat.

Here's a few other things I've learned over the years with my enclosed:

• If ordering new, get the walls and roof insulated; not much additional cost if done up front.
• AC is nice to have. But can be a deferred cost on a new build, if you simply pre-wire one or two roof locations. Then you can add the AC unit later.
• Consider E-track or similar on the walls and floor to give you mounting flexibility of stuff you bring with you. Don't mount the wall E-track too high; mine is at 4' and better would have been 3.5.
• If getting in & out of the car while in the trailer, consider trailers with a side "escape hatch/door".
• Don't bother with built-in jacks or adjustable support posts. The jacks will get eventually get damaged, and the posts will become rusty and difficult to raise & lower. Easiest solution is to get a leveling scissor jack or two from RV supplier, and simply stow them when not in use.
• DO get bogey wheels at the back end; better than dragging the trailer frame over low clearances.
• If trailer is wired for power pole connection, avoid the style where you have to pull the cable through an opening in the floor. PIA in the long run. Better to get a properly installed plug outlet on the exterior, and then attach the removable cable. Also, if only electric demands are AC, a 30AMP connection is good. But if planning to run a compressor too, and maybe a 120V welder and other tools, better would be 50AMP. Not all power poles have 50AMP hookup, but nice to be ready if they do.
• Also consider maximizing under floor storage containers, if available. I was able to get 3 on my 26-footer. The front most, not covered by the loaded car, contains a lot of my go-to stuff for on-the-road. The other 2, covered when the car is loaded, contain a lost of stuff I don't use on a regular basis.
• If possible, outfit the trailer with 2 spare tires. If you get a blowout, nice to know you have one more available, just in case. I had a mount installed on the front of my trailer to hold both.
• A built-in winch is a very nice feature if the car is broke and you have to load it by yourself.

[RS4Ship]

Originally Posted by HoodPin

RacingJunk is a good source. Also check out Millennium Trailers; they have a good inventory of new & used.

FWIW, I highly recommend the heaviest duty axle you can find. For up to 26 footer, 2 6K axles with 8 lug 16" wheels would be nice & stout. And always try to get E weight-rating tires. I've heard stories of C or D tire trailers, where if one tire blows, the other on the same side blows shortly afterwards. I've had a couple instances of blowout, and the 2nd E rated tire seems to hold up well until I can find a place to pull over and swap the flat.

Here's a few other things I've learned over the years with my enclosed:

• If ordering new, get the walls and roof insulated; not much additional cost if done up front.
• AC is nice to have. But can be a deferred cost on a new build, if you simply pre-wire one or two roof locations. Then you can add the AC unit later.
• Consider E-track or similar on the walls and floor to give you mounting flexibility of stuff you bring with you. Don't mount the wall E-track too high; mine is at 4' and better would have been 3.5.
• If getting in & out of the car while in the trailer, consider trailers with a side "escape hatch/door".
• Don't bother with built-in jacks or adjustable support posts. The jacks will get eventually get damaged, and the posts will become rusty and difficult to raise & lower. Easiest solution is to get a leveling scissor jack or two from RV supplier, and simply stow them when not in use.
• DO get bogey wheels at the back end; better than dragging the trailer frame over low clearances.
• If trailer is wired for power pole connection, avoid the style where you have to pull the cable through an opening in the floor. PIA in the long run. Better to get a properly installed plug outlet on the exterior, and then attach the removable cable. Also, if only electric demands are AC, a 30AMP connection is good. But if planning to run a compressor too, and maybe a 120V welder and other tools, better would be 50AMP. Not all power poles have 50AMP hookup, but nice to be ready if they do.
• Also consider maximizing under floor storage containers, if available. I was able to get 3 on my 26-footer. The front most, not covered by the loaded car, contains a lot of my go-to stuff for on-the-road. The other 2, covered when the car is loaded, contain a lost of stuff I don't use on a regular basis.
• If possible, outfit the trailer with 2 spare tires. If you get a blowout, nice to know you have one more available, just in case. I had a mount installed on the front of my trailer to hold both.
• A built-in winch is a very nice feature if the car is broke and you have to load it by yourself.

This is all really helpful. At this point and on my budget I'll probably have to settle for something relatively basic, or relatively old. Maintenance and future upgrades don't scare me, but if I do go new I'll take your advice on the insulation for sure. Priorities will be finding a well built, solid trailer that doesn't leak and tows OK....all the creature comforts and convenience items will have to remain on the "nice but not necessary" list unfortunately.

I'm towing with an F150 5.4 with an 9200lb towing capacity using WDH and Antisway system...so weight is obviously a concern as well. A pretty bare bones 24' trailer with my 2700lb race car, extra set of wheels/tires and 300lbs of gear is going to run between 7-8k lbs...so I'm already at the upper limits of the trucks ability.

[HoodPin]

Also, FWIW, built-in cabinets are nice. But you can also install a lot of your own storage features after the fact. Pit Pal is the better known trailer outfitter, and they do make good and creative stuff. But also check out Pit Products; they sell a lot of trailer storage stuff for less money. I got my tire racks and other stuff from them.

[arob]

Tony pretty much covered most topics. The only thing I'll add is that you should get extension cords for when everyone beats you to the paddock, and you need to park further away from the power supply.

My trailer is wired for 50amp, but I carry combination 50>30 and 30>120 converters. I carry 100 ft. of extension cords to be safe. The converters are important bc there are more 120 outlets than 30amp/50amp plugs. VIR has 50amp - Summit Point does not.

BIG 2nd on carrying 2 spare tires. If one tire blows, the 2nd one is RIGHT behind it. I experienced 3 blowouts last season. One blew (replaced) on the way to Summit Point. The one directly behind it blew (replaced), the following race weekend. The third blew the following race weekend. When that one blew, I immediately threw my 2nd spare on the partner tire. When I got to the track, I replaced both of them. The one that didn't blow was showing the cords. Lesson learned.

If buying enclosed, definitely get a TrailerAid. Easy wheels swaps. Just remember to break the lugs while the wheel is still ON the ground. :P

Electric jacks are great for lazy people like me.

[Trak Ratt]

Originally Posted by arob

...
BIG 2nd on carrying 2 spare tires. If one tire blows, the 2nd one is RIGHT behind it. I experienced 3 blowouts last season. One blew (replaced) on the way to Summit Point. The one directly behind it blew (replaced), the following race weekend. The third blew the following race weekend. When that one blew, I immediately threw my 2nd spare on the partner tire. When I got to the track, I replaced both of them. The one that didn't blow was showing the cords. Lesson learned.

If buying enclosed, definitely get a TrailerAid. Easy wheels swaps. Just remember to break the lugs while the wheel is still ON the ground. :P

Electric jacks are great for lazy people like me.

X2 on everything! We've had several high speed flats. In every case the other tyre on that side also failed within a few trips. Even had one I kept as a spare burst on the spare mount the next year.

[RS4Ship]

So I've searched, and the only local trailer source recommendations I came accross were from 2006. They were:

Truck'nAmerica 1-866-878-2587

Bartley Trailers 301-774-3332

The Hitch Man 301-870-0290

Mastertrack Trailers 301-921-0014

Perone Peformance Products 301-498-7270


The trailer industry seems to be pretty shady based on the research I've done. If I do end up going with a new trailer, has anyone had any good experience with someone relatively local to DC? Figured I'd probably stick to Pace, Haulmark, Wells Cargo, etc...but am definitely open to others if there's no real compromise. I don't mind driving a bit to get a good deal.

Thanks,
Jason

[TurboPooch]

As mentioned, the trailer industry is pretty shady and there are a lot of low buck trailers out there that are junk. Aluminum trailers are expensive but provide significant weight savings for other things like tools and tires. I HIGHLY recommend Trailer Enterprises in Hagerstown, MD (ask for Lyndon) if you buy a new steel one. They are very reputable and stand behind their product. They sell United trailers which are built in Indiana. I have several friends and myself that have bought from them and all very satisfied. As an example, they worked with me to get my aluminum side door replaced free of charge when it started to corrode due to a water leak after it was out of warranty.

[ChuckH]

I bought my Featherlite from Randy at Burdette Brothers in Gathersburg. I had a great experience. They sell used trailers too.