[Dr K]

I believe the Dawe engine is ready to install, but unfortunately Peter D has been unresponsive by email or phone for several weeks (he's not young - I hope he's okay). So I'm posting here.

The photo shows the vacuum caps replacing several small and one large hose on the back of the "air box" (#21 on the PET image). Any of these not okay in terms of engine management/safety/power as far as any of you know? Both Peter D and Charley Murphy said it's reasonable to replace the breather hose between the oil tank and the air box (see the large red plug in the photo). Also replaced/plugged are the two hoses on the "thermo valve" (#13), and the two others on the throttle housing (#9): the intake that hose #28 goes to, and the other unlabeled one.

Finally and most importantly, any secrets before starting an engine that has not been started for about 2 years? Please tell me now while it's still off the car and doing stuff is easier...





I do want to thank Bill Miller and Froggers911 (Frankie) for loaning me TWO engine stands - which made transfer of the exhausts, etc. much easier. Bill also loaned me a couple of very special tools for which I'm appreciated (and didn't mess up -- sorry Dave).

[Trak Ratt]

Usually turn it over a few times by hand (easier with plugs out). Then with starter motor to build some oil pressure before fire up. Of course you checked the intake runners to make sure nothing dropped/fell into them.

[hoophead]

Yes you can cap those hoses - I nuked the whole set involving the #31 valve on my 3.2 conversion. It's supposed to help keep condensation from icing up in the oil tank or something like that. All the non-3.2 cars don't even have the system. Doesn't seem terribly important in our climate.

[Landjet]

You could pull the fuel pump fuse or relay and crank it for awhile to get oil to the pistons and other parts before firing it up. Seems prudent to me.

[smdubovsky]

Originally Posted by Landjet

You could pull the fuel pump fuse or relay and crank it for awhile to get oil to the pistons and other parts before firing it up.

x2. This is the typically accepted procedure for new motors. Disable fuel. Crank until you have oil pressure. Then crank for another 20-30s to make sure all the oil galleys are full (all he way out to the far end of the cams.)

[cmartin]

Also a good time to check for fuel leaks.

[JmuRiz]

That's quite the 'engine room' you have there, good progress. Now you just need to get rid of one of them

[Jazzbass]

Originally Posted by hoophead

Yes you can cap those hoses - I nuked the whole set involving the #31 valve on my 3.2 conversion. It's supposed to help keep condensation from icing up in the oil tank or something like that. All the non-3.2 cars don't even have the system. Doesn't seem terribly important in our climate.

x2. I pulled all of the deicing stuff off my 3.2 when I upgraded the fuel line and never ran it again.

[Lupin..the..3rd]

Originally Posted by Landjet

You could pull the fuel pump fuse or relay and crank it for awhile to get oil to the pistons and other parts before firing it up. Seems prudent to me.

That's that way I do it when my car has been sitting for a month. Pull fuel pump fuse (it's fuse number 6 in a Carrera fuse box). Crank until oil pressure warning lamp goes out.... can take several seconds of cranking sometimes. Restore fuse. Start engine.

[Dr K]

Thanks, everybody. I'll get the oil around it before letting it fire (and fuel). Couldn't I accomplish the same things by just leaving the (still disconnected) fuel pump relay disconnected? I will hand crank it a couple of spins before applying electricity, but not with the plugs out as I won't be filling it with oil until it's back in the car.

Originally Posted by Jazzbass

x2. I pulled all of the deicing stuff off my 3.2 when I upgraded the fuel line and never ran it again.

Yeah, well, it runs great--sorry you didn't get to see for yourself! (You're where I got most of the idea for this, with the oil vent plugging idea from Peter Dawe and then backed-up by Charlie Murphy).