New tool thread - Page 9 - Dorkiphus.net

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  #81  
Old 11-30-2016, 10:05 PM
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In the sprit of the 'new tools thread' it took $50 of new tools to repair that damn battery pack. Screws are down very deep & skinny holes. None of my screwdriver insert 'bits' could reach them. Used flashlight and loupe to look down the holes best we could. *REALLY* look like 'security hex' to a couple of us. WTF, who uses those anymore? Guessed they MUST be metric this day and age. Go on amazon and order Bondhus security hex L wrenches for ~$15. Get them in and they ALMOST fit. MF, they used imperial. I hate IR. Months go by and finally remember to order the imperial set for another ~$15. Those come in and don't even come close. WTF!!!! At this point Im nearly pissed off enough to saw the pack in half. I calm down and remember to take it to work and put under the Mantis microscope. SOAB, they are security torx! The heads are stamped so the inner points are recessed at an angle. So until you get light going perfectly down the hole they REALLY look like security hex. So, $20 later and I got a set of long Wiha security torx bits. Live and learn.
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  #82  
Old 11-30-2016, 10:27 PM
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I learned SMD has any/ all of the bits one might possibly need if trying to open a battery pack
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  #83  
Old 12-01-2016, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicegrip View Post
Looks handy. A lot more portable than my version a discarded IV stand with a 300 watt quartz light on the top, added hooks and a plug strip along the mast. Been a real handy bugger with space for 3 or 4 angle grinders and the PP gear. One thing I like about some of the LED lights is they don't seem to trigger the auto dark as easly as fluorescent.
Thanks to Vice, I did the same thing for my underhoist lighting. I had purchased a SnapOn LED light from Costco ($20 on sale) a few months back. While very bright, it was sitting on the floor, and was never where I wanted the illumination to be. So, I bought a flea-bay IV stand for $23 and mounted the LED. Unfortunately I still have a cord to contend with... but what a great improvement...
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Last edited by dnwong; 12-01-2016 at 08:42 AM.
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  #84  
Old 12-02-2016, 12:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackTalon View Post
I learned SMD has any/ all of the bits one might possibly need if trying to open a battery pack
Since I need to repair the same battery pack, I only need to borrow the LAST ones he bought. Here's the rub - Ben brought them to Cleveland about 8 months ago, had them apart with the tools he has there, FINALLY brought them back when he could fix them...and screwed them together first!! I'm sure I could have put some similar Philips head screws in there if he'd left it apart.
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  #85  
Old 02-01-2017, 03:20 PM
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Looking for tools to compress pistons in 4+ piston calipers I found this from Lang, anyone using this? Have a better option for 4 piston calipers?

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  #86  
Old 02-01-2017, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmartin View Post
Looking for tools to compress pistons in 4+ piston calipers I found this from Lang, anyone using this? Have a better option for 4 piston calipers?

I normally use the old, worn (now thinner) pad to move the pistons. Sometimes I use a short bar clamp to compress, if there's a place for the clamp to grab the pad and the caliper body. Other times, I'll insert a rubberized tool handle (like a channel lock's handle) between the old pad and rotor, and then lever the pad towards the pistons. If all else fails, I'll substitute a large screw driver instead of a rubberized tool handle, and carefully try moving the old pad, without nicking the rotor.

Just remember to do one pad at a time when you're compressing the pistons on a multi-piston caliper. Otherwise, while you're compressing one side, the other side is popping out.
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  #87  
Old 02-01-2017, 04:07 PM
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Thanks. I was using the old pads and 2 bar method last night and thought there might be a better way. My goto are the c clamp vicegrips but with 'nice' aluminum calipers I dont want to leave a mark. Being a bit of a tool junkie I'm always open to a faster/better way and this ratchet idea looks interesting.
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  #88  
Old 02-01-2017, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmartin View Post
Thanks. I was using the old pads and 2 bar method last night and thought there might be a better way. My goto are the c clamp vicegrips but with 'nice' aluminum calipers I dont want to leave a mark. Being a bit of a tool junkie I'm always open to a faster/better way and this ratchet idea looks interesting.
Some that I've seen seem to be designed for the caliper being remote from the rotor, versus being able to fit in the space for the pad against the rotor.
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- Tony P.

Currently
- 1984 944 SP2 racer
- 1977 911 KM Special vintage racer
- 1989 944S2
- 2012 Cayman R (also the wife's)
- 2000 Boxster S (the wife's)

- 1995 993 (garage queen)
- 1979 RX7 enduro
- 2017 F350 (tow monster)

Gone but not forgotten
- 1986 944 (under new mgmt)
- 1991 944S2 (in car heaven...)
- 2001 Chevy Suburban 2500 (FIL's beast now)

"Keep your eyes on the road and your hands upon the wheel." - The Doors
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  #89  
Old 02-03-2017, 09:10 AM
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Good point. I usually swap rotors with pads so thats not a big deal but a limitation worth mentioning. Sort of like why we have 5 versions of so many tools I guess, always looking for the better, quicker but it usually just means we need a bigger toolbox.
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  #90  
Old 03-17-2017, 11:08 AM
cmartin cmartin is offline
 
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How do you crimp battery terminals? Its boat rewire time and battery cables are first. Handheld crimpers are $$, this looks like a decent option for use in a vise.

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