[Fritz]

Originally Posted by Fairfax 944

Uh, I should have read your thread yesterday. Didn't see it, but yours looks a bit more sturdy then mine. It took a lot more time than it should have, didnt it?

I always expect things to take longer then expected, but this was more so. It was probably trying to determine the best way to get through the sides. I first looked at bulkhead fittings for fish tanks and agricultural use, but they are too big and expensive. Then when I got the pump at West Marine I looked through their thru-hull fittings and they wouldn't work. Then I thought of a PVC solution, but couldn't find the right pieces.
But then Andy reminded me what he had done with his, and simple is best. Plus I looked at Tony's cooler at Tech and realized it's not rocket science. Keep most of the water from falling onto bad things, and you're okay.

Have you figured out the mount yet?

[Trak Ratt]

The one I bought used came with a simple slab of metal with some inexpensive straps.

Cool Shirt offers this:




Saw a nice Pro system for $6.9K! (shirt sould separate) http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=6957

[Elfer]

Originally Posted by Fritz

TOTALLY INFERIOR TO THIS MASTERPIECE!!



Just kidding. Looks good. There is no right or wrong way, unless of course it doesn't work and sets your car on fire.

Just modify to add a hose running to the engine - quick eject on the shirt, and the fires out..

[HoodPin]

Nicely done Fritz!

FWIW, I would recommend drilling all the holes in the cooler as high as possible, to minimize issues with potential water leakage.

[HoodPin]

The other thing you can do to help keep the water cool is to line the inside of the cooler with Danica Patrick pictures......

[Fairfax 944]

After looking at the cooler last night, I see that the silicon is not adhering too well to the cooler. It's like there is an oil film on the surfaces of the cooler. I'm going to remove the silicon, sand the relevant areas of the cooler to get better adhesion, and re-silicon.

[HoodPin]

Originally Posted by Fairfax 944

After looking at the cooler last night, I see that the silicon is not adhering too well to the cooler. It's like there is an oil film on the surfaces of the cooler. I'm going to remove the silicon, sand the relevant areas of the cooler to get better adhesion, and re-silicon.

You primarily want a solid seal on the inside of the cooler, where the water is. I would recommend using silicon in the gap between the inner & outer walls of the cooler, and then fab up some gasket material (cork, rubber, etc) to put between the flange and inner cooler surface.

[smdubovsky]

Instead of just sanding (which just puts the oil down in scratches) consider cleaning w/ something that even attacks the base plastic a little. Toluene, xylene, etc. Then maybe sand a little.

[Vicegrip]

Originally Posted by AJ986S

You primarily want a solid seal on the inside of the cooler, where the water is. I would recommend using silicon in the gap between the inner & outer walls of the cooler, and then fab up some gasket material (cork, rubber, etc) to put between the flange and inner cooler surface.

There are groups of plastics that silicone does not stick to well. Window grades even less so. Better to have a seal that is based on compression than a sealent.

[Dr K]

Please add a pair for me - also for draining shirt. Thanks! Trade them for the 1-1/2" aluminum angle iron you need (and I've got)? Free delivery, too.