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Old 12-12-2017, 10:16 AM
86911TLCAB 86911TLCAB is offline
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Default Remove crank shaft pulley?

3.2 engine. Engine still in the car

I have a leak in the area of the crank shaft pulley seal. Would like to change it.

I put the car in 5th gear the pulley continues to turn. I have read I should stand on the brakes but at present have no brakes ( and frankly I am not clear why that makes a difference).

Based on trying to keep the engine from spinning in the wrong direction is there a way to get the pulley bolt off without risking any issues.

I was thinking to put the belt back on tighten as best as I can and try and use the pressure of the belt to hold it in place while using an impact to remove the bolt.

Is there a special tool for removing the bolt as there is for other cars?

Thanks for the assistance? Have a picture which I will load later.
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Old 12-12-2017, 10:39 AM
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Use air tools and it should come right off. If not available then try putting the belt back on, tighten it and then loosen bolt.

Convoluted, put put car in gear and jam the rear wheels to lock in place.

Long drive but I do have a pancake compressor and air tool you can barrow till you get this project done.
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Old 12-12-2017, 11:03 AM
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Thanks Dave. I have an electric impact. Will give it a shot. If the jamming the wheels will work I will do something to keep wheels from turning while taking it off. Just trying to avoid screwing up the chains.
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Old 12-12-2017, 11:11 AM
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I havent done this in a while, same setup as the SC right? You should be able to break it loose with an impact, just hold the pulley with your off hand. Not simple while in the car, I assume the exhaust is dropped and maybe the motor is lowered a bit. Best practice is to lock the flywheel, simple tool, works well for torquing the nut.
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Old 12-12-2017, 11:28 AM
86911TLCAB 86911TLCAB is offline
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Thanks. Maybe I am over thinking this based on other crank pulleys I have removed with special tools to hold them in place. Will try later and see what happens.

Yes, the exhaust is off and motor is lowered...no issue getting at the bolt with an impact...just trying to listen to Bruce Anderson and not turn the engine the wrong way..
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Last edited by 86911TLCAB; 12-12-2017 at 12:18 PM.
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Old 12-12-2017, 10:06 PM
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Got it off no problem. Guess I was over thinking it. Doesn't look like it is really leaking. Will change it anyways.
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Old 12-13-2017, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86911TLCAB View Post
Got it off no problem. Guess I was over thinking it. Doesn't look like it is really leaking. Will change it anyways.
Front seal is easy once pulley is off. Agree on doing it anyway.
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Old 12-13-2017, 02:46 PM
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am also changing the chain cover gaskets...they have definitely been leaking...i suppose as these leak and oil drops air flow under the car can make them find a place to collect on the face of the engine, not just on the ground....while it is all off, am going to change all the seals and gaskets.

have read that the bearing which sits at the front of the engine can also leak if it wasn't properly sealed...looking at it i cant really tell...but not something you can just reseal...as i understand it that bearing doesn't spin, so will put some gasket material in there in case that is where this is coming from...not sure it will make a difference but lets see what happens.
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Old 12-19-2017, 07:12 PM
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Could someone kindly confirm the torque setting for the crankshaft pulley bolt. Bentley shows it at 59 ft lbs but want to verify. Thanks.
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  #10  
Old 12-20-2017, 04:38 PM
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Some info i found...Bently is correct, but for older versions of the bolt...

"In most of the early 911's prior to 1978 the crankshaft pulley screw was a M12x 1.5 x 22 mm long hex head plated cap screw of strength class 8.8 (PN 900.083.001.02) and it was used with a 12mm spring or wave washer (PN 900.028.014.01). This screw could only be tightened to 80 Nm or 59 ft-lbs due to it's strength class. This combination was used for both A/C and non-A/C equipped engines. A spring or wave washer is almost worthless as a fastener locking appliance so it is interesting to note that in the mid-year Turbo's and Carreras with A/C that the pulley screw changed to PN 999.093.005.02 (also M12x 1.5 x 22). This screw is of the "Durlok" form (http://www.franciskirk.com/screws.html) and is of strength class 12.9; this screw is tightened to 170 Nm or 125 ft-lbs (which is higher than a normal plated class 12.9 screw tightening torques of 140 Nm or 103 ft-lbs) due to the Durlok locking features consuming some of the tightening torque. A spring washer was not shown being used with this screw. Beginning in 1978 the spring washers were not being used on any of the pulleys but the pulley screw for all cars (through 1989) was the 999.093.005.02 part number.

If you received a Porsche part number screw 999.093.005.02 you have the correct part. The head likely has the number 12.9 embossed on it and under the head there may be serrations. A wave washer is not used with this type of screw. The extra number (22) in Wayne's book is the screw's length in mm. All of the pulley screws were 22 mm long (length is measured from the bottom of the head to the tip of the thread). Tighten to 125 ft-lbs (no lubricant on the threads)"

get the torque wrench back out...
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97 Lexus SC300 Manual

86 TL (gone)
993 (gone)
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