[N0tt0N]

After addressing Safety Issues (Rollbar Extension, Seats, Harnesses/Belts, Helmet, NecksGen) and Suspension (Coilovers, ARBs, Camber) I lined up a number of projects designed to address some issues with the M96 Engine (WYIT.)

Oiling:

1. Extended 1.2l Oil Sump
2. Short, Non-Bypass Billet Oil Filter
3. Miller CRX 75w90 NT Transmission Oil Change
4. Joe Gibbs XP9 Engine Oil Change

Cooling:

1. 165 Degree Thermostat
2. CSF Radiators (L/C/R) w/grills
3. Flow-through Wheel Well Liners w/grills

Mechanical/Drivetrain:

1. Double Row Ceramic Intermediate Shaft Bearing
2. Clutch, Pressure Plate
3. ARP Rod Bolts
4. ARP Main Bolts
5. New Main/Rod Bearings
6. Refreshed Gaskets
7. RSS Underdrive Pulley
8. WaveTrac Torque-biased Differential

Intake:

1. EVOMS Cold Air Intake w/Apollo Thermal Wrap by Tina
2. 74mm Throttle Body
3. IPD Plenum
4. Vacuum Hose Upgrade/Rerouting

Ignition:

1. Coil Packs, Sparkplugs, Pipes/O-Rings

Exhaust:

1. 200 Cell Sport Cat Headers and Rear Cat Delete
2. Wraps & Ties

[N0tt0N]

Plan to change the oil and replace:

1. OE Oil Pan Plug (900-219-009-30 Screw Plug M18x1.5)+(900-123-106-30 Sealing Ring A18x24) with LN Engineering magnetic oil pan plug (came with 2 sealing rings)
2. OE Oil Filter Housing and Cartridge (996-107-020-54) with LN Engineering billet full-flow spin-on oil filter adapter and LN Engineering billet spin-on high-performance oil filter
3. OE Oil Separator (996-107-080-54) with 997 OE Oil Return (997-107-016-00) units with new o-rings (999-701-789-40 12x2)
4. OE Oil Pan (996-107-031-55) with Mantis Sport Oil Sump Extension v2 (one-piece 1.2 liter)

Tools Needed:

• 10mm Deep Socket (987 uses E10 Torx Deep Socket wherever 10mm is mentioned below)
• 8mm Hex Socket
• 6” or 10” extension
• 26mm, 27mm Deep Sockets
• Torque Wrench (7.5 ftlbs, 19 ftlbs, 37 fltlbs)

Supplies Needed for Regular Oil Change:

• O-Ring Lubricant (Loctite Super Lube Synthetic Grease used)
• OEM 996-107-313-51 o-ring for oil filter (LN Spin-on adapter comes with one)
• OEM 900-123-106-30 sealing ring for oil pan plug (LN oil pan plug came with two)
• 9.2 quarts Oil (less than expected since used the LN billet (shorty) oil filter?

Supplies Needed for Upgrades Only:

• OEM 999-707-375-40 O-ring 30x3 for oil suction pipe (Mantis Sport Oil Sump Extension comes with the needed 2 for their oil suction pipe extension)
• 2 x OEM 997-107-016-00 Oil Return (Sump)
• 2 x OEM 999-701-789-40 Oil Return (Sump) Seal O-Ring 12x2 (Oil Return comes with them)
• Loctite 5900 sealant

I. Prep Work
Open the oil cap in the service tray in the trunk. I had the car up on the lift already but otherwise jack up the vehicle at this point. You can do this on the street but it is easier on the stands. Unscrew oil drain plug (A below) with an 8mm hex socket, holding it on until it is completely unscrewed to avoid an armpit of oil, quickly removing it to allow the oil to drain into a large pan (>2.5 gallons). Capture any samples for analysis after the oil has drained for a few seconds. Let it drain for at least 20 minutes.



Remove the rear undertray cover as the extended sump will not easily fit under it during reinstallation.

Unscrew the oil filter housing using a strap wrench and then pull it straight down. Be prepared to catch the oil in the large pan. BTW, this can be done anytime with only the loss of the oil in the filter housing (important for LN Engineering billet oil filter where filter-cleaning intervals are 1,000miles). Remove the paper filter (pull downwards). The filter comes apart easily so you can fan through the folds and check for diagnostic debris. Carefully lever off the old O-ring on the housing groove with a small screwdriver in order not to damage the thread. Replace with a new, greased O-ring (996-107-313-51 Sealing Ring) if reinstalling.

II. Removing the Oil Pan Cover and OEM Parts for Upgrade
Using a 10mm deep socket unscrew the 13 screws on the oil pan cover (B1-B13 above and below). Tap cover gently on the sides using a plastic hammer, then carefully pry it off at the leverage bars (on the rear side corners in front of B3 and B12) and remove the oil pan by pulling it down to separate the sealant.

Check the oil pan cover for debris or metal filings. Remove the oil sump baffle (996-107-243-51 Bulkhead) from the oil pan cover by removing the three 10mm bolts (C1-C3 below). You can now clean up and store the OEM oil pan cover.



Using a 10mm socket remove the two screws (SP-1, SP-2 below) and the oil suction pipe.

Using a 10mm socket remove the four screws (AOS L-1/2 and AOS R1/2 below) and the air/oil separators (swirl pots). These each have an o-ring at connection to the block next to AOS *-1 that will require a gentle tug down to separate.



Check the sump area for debris or metal filings. Wipe down the area with a lint-free rag. Remove any gasket/sealing material using a razorblade and denatured alcohol. (AOS L-1 below plugged with rag as it drips forever)



Parts in the Pile



You can disassemble the oil suction pipe for easier cleaning of the mesh by using external retaining ring pliers to spread to circlip holding the rubber end piece on. Check the mesh for debris or metal filings. It is not unusual to find some amount of oil pan sealant (worms) in the mesh.

[N0tt0N]

III. Install Upgraded Parts
Using the two longer (25mm vs 20mm OE) 10mm hexagon head bolts and washers provided by Mantis, replace the oil suction pipe with the extension spacer (o-ring grove on spacer toward block, 4.75mm thick) between the pipe and the block. Tightening torque 10 Nm (7.5 ftlb, 90inlb)



Using the original screws with new, greased o-rings (999-701-789-40) replace the new 997 Oil Returns (997-107-016-00 shown below on left) in the position of the old ones (shown on right). Tightening torque 10 Nm (7.5 ftlb , 90inlb)



Looks like a 997/Cayman!


Following the instructions from Mantis, remove the lower lip from the OEM baffle in order to fit the baffle to the windage tray. I did this with a razor knife. The baffle will now mount flush to the windage tray.



You will also need to trim the baffle slightly to allow the lowered oil suction tube to clear. This keeps the baffle in the same relative position to the bottom of the block. Using the three 20mm bolts, washers, and lock nuts, mount the modified OEM baffle to the Mantis windage tray (C1-C3 below).



Apply a bead of Loctite 5900 to the Mantis oil pan cover and place the windage tray on top. Apply another bead of Loctite 5900 to the windage tray and then remount the entire assembly to the block. Secure with the original 13 screws (deep socket needed – standard with not tighten all screws to torque!) from the inside out. Tightening torque: 10 Nm (7.5 ftlb, 90inlb).



IV. Install the LN Engineering Oil Filter


It is easiest to assemble the Oil filter by holding the cap, then placing the gasket and the filter on top, then screwing on the housing.



Lubricate both o-rings (spin-on adapter and oil filter cap) prior to installation with appropriate o-ring lubricant. Screw the spin-on oil filter adapter onto the engine by hand. You can feel when the rubber O-ring begins to seat. Unless the spin-on filter adapter is butted up to the block, it is not installed right. Once the spin-on filter adapter is mated with the block correctly, then torque - do not exceed 25 Nm (18 Ft/Lbs) torque when tightening using a 27mm deep socket over the filter nipple.



Be sure to oil the filter gasket first before installing the oil filter! Filter should be installed by hand then once snug, turned another 3/4 to 1 turn to finish filter installation, or to the filter manufacturers recommended specifications.



Install the LN Engineering oil drain plug. Use OEM sealing ring (900-123-106-30). Torque to 19ft/lbs (vs. OE 37 ft/lb). Replace sealing ring every time you re-install the drain plug.

Reinstall the rear undertray

Fill the engine oil slowly using a suitable filler container in order to avoid the oil overflowing at the filler neck. Mantis v2 Deep Sump adds 1.2 liters. Don't forget to screw the cap on again tightly.

• Top-up quantity for 986 S with filter change: 8.75 liters (9.25 quarts): w/Deep Sump 9.95 liters (10.51 quarts)
• Top-up quantity for 986 S without filter change: 8.5 liters (8.98 quarts): w/Deep Sump 9.7 liters (10.25 quarts)

Check engine oil level display in instrument cluster and correct if necessary.

[BobNovas]

Nice! Thanks Martin.

[N0tt0N]

After watching F1 I spent the morning cleaning up the lower half of the engine. Came one fairly well for a second pass, especially compared to the before condition. The first picture in this thread was after the initial scrub down.


Next I began to prep for an exhaust drop. I gave all the bolts a second douse of PB after a previous spray and brush last week. A couple of ‘volunteer’ nuts and bolts apparently added as a field mod during the cars use during the Bolivian border wars and a blocker getting the U-shaped Connecting Tubes off that I have to deal with tomorrow (Hackzall, beotch!)

The first item to address is the Double Clamp (2@$30.19!) 996 111 110 01 (supersedes PET-listed 996 111 110 00), Sleeve) connecting the U-shaped Connecting Tube to the Catalytic Converter. From the pictures below you can see some improvisation using a long bolt and then two large nuts as spacers before the small nut holding it all together. The OE bolt self locks in a square hole in the clamp as long as you keep it pressed in while removing the 13mm nut.


WTF?


After removing the 2 nuts and bolts from each clamp attached to the sleeve, spread the clamps and the slot in the sleeve between them with a flat screwdriver, and slide the sleeve onto the Catalytic Converter to expose the joint in the tubing. Right side win:


Left side was installed incorrectly. I am so surprised. Not only were the bolts topside (who does that and why are they allowed to breed?) making it very difficult to spread the sleeve slot but it is shoved all the way onto the U-shaped connecting tube and barely covering the joint. The edge of the sleeve is supposed to be between lines 1 and 2. From the right side picture above you can see that the joint must be right inside the edge of the sleeve.


Next is the removal of the Single Clamp (2@$13.17): 996 111 209 00, Clip, connecting the U-Shaped Connecting Tube to the Muffler. The OE stud in the clamp does not require a counter while removing the 13mm nut.


Remove the U-shaped Connecting Tube from the Muffler by swiveling it back and forth (the Catalytic Converter end is free at the point) while pulling it out of the Muffler. Left side failed, of course.


Since the left side U-shaped Connecting Tube prevented me from dropping the Muffler and my hands were stupidly blistered from getting the right side out with damp gloves I moved on with a cheery smile on my face and a contract out on the Bolivian mechanic. I decided to loosen the remaining fasteners while everything was solid on the car and I could get some torque on them without wrestling a python made out of rusty razorblades. Once I saw Paddy’s cordless impact drill in action I decided I had to have one and finally got to use it on this job. Love it (Bosch 24618-01 18-Volt Lithium-Ion 1/2-Inch Square Drive Impact)!

Next stop were the four 13mm nuts (4@$0.99) 900 380 005 01 (supersedes Pet-listed 900 380 005 09), Hexagon Nut, M8, holding the Catalytic Converts to the Muffler via a wire bracket. These were free of corrosion and loosened easily, including the volunteer. Left hand tight.


Next were the six 13mm nuts (6@$3.37!) 999 084 052 02, Hexagon Nut, M8, on the flange between the Catalytic Converters and the Headers. Three of the lower nuts loosened fine and the fourth one sheared off the bolt. I did not attempt the top two yet. The engine side nut there appears to be welded to the flange (the lower nuts were on studs).



Next were the four 02 Sensors (2@$265.14!) 986 606 127 01 (-2002), Oxygen Sensor, Front, and (2@$229.90!) 986 606 128 01 (-2002), Oxygen Sensor, Rear (shown above). First, disconnect the O2 Sensors from the wiring harness so you don’t twist off the wires when removing them (look at the price!). Apparently, they are somewhat fragile and the length and connections of the wires are part of the sensor response package. Place a flat screwdriver under the lip at the top of the O2 Sensor Connector and, resting the screwdriver against the pad at the bottom of the Connector, pull the Connector down and out of the Wiring Harness Connector using the grips on the side.


Using a special 22mm O2 Sensor Socket, sort of a deep flair wrench that can fit around the connector wire, loosen the O2 Sensor and the unthread it with your hands. Wrap it carefully and set it aside. The Front (Blue cable) and the Rear (Black cable) on each side can be kept together as a set if you want to ensure they go back in the same locations. Front O2 Sensor removal:


The Rears are the same procedure:


Finally, I loosened all the header bolts (12@$2.34) 900 378 131 00, Exhaust Manifold, Hexagon-Head Bolt, M8x28, and was lucky enough, since I had acquired insurance, to have none of them break off!


More Later!

[hoophead]

Note on the LN Engineering drain plug, which is aluminum: do not torque to 37 ft/lbs like the stock plug, but rather 19 ft/lbs. See here: http://lnengineering.com/billet-al-h...e-s-turbo.html

[Dr K]

Originally Posted by hoophead

Note on the LN Engineering drain plug, which is aluminum: do not torque to 37 ft/lbs like the stock plug, but rather 19 ft/lbs. See here: http://lnengineering.com/billet-al-h...e-s-turbo.html

Why is this better than stock one?

[hoophead]

Originally Posted by Dr K

Why is this better than stock one?

Has a magnet it on it, and uses a bigger hex bit than the factory plug so there is less chance of stripping it.

[N0tt0N]

Originally Posted by hoophead

Note on the LN Engineering drain plug, which is aluminum: do not torque to 37 ft/lbs like the stock plug, but rather 19 ft/lbs. See here: http://lnengineering.com/billet-al-h...e-s-turbo.html

Thanks, Jeff. I started with my oil change plan from the Cayman. Noted.

[racer]

Love the write ups! I hope these mods work well for you.