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  #181  
Old 04-26-2019, 04:59 PM
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Default Portable work light on sale at Home Depot.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...klwt9Vp338l200
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  #182  
Old 03-24-2020, 04:04 PM
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sorry if my search skills are weak

What are you using to test radiators? I've had a Stant kit for years and need to order a new adaptor. Thing is, there are so many kits out there now with way more fittings for cheap. I can spend ~$100 on a few adaptors for my old unit or buy a new tool with tons of adaptors for less $$. Seems like the HF kit has a few names available on Amazon. Anyone using this with good or bad results?

Not an everyday use item but I use it.

Thanks
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  #183  
Old 03-24-2020, 04:14 PM
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IMHO, some of the newer stuff is cheaply made. If you currently have a STANT tool, it might be worthwhile to spend the extra on decent quality fittings, that may have a better chance of fitting correctly. Of course, you could also purchase one of the multi-fitting tools available for not to much cost, and if doesn't work, buy the STANT parts, and sell the other one on FB or such, at a discount.
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  #184  
Old 03-24-2020, 04:22 PM
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Ha

I hate buying crap tools. But I'm poor!
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  #185  
Old 03-24-2020, 10:12 PM
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I have a Stant that I bought about 5 years ago and it works well but it only has the basic adapter and none of the threaded type caps. I use it all the time when needing to pressurize a system to look for leaks or burp a system. But here is food for thought, if you are looking just to test for leaks, if you don't have an Airlift tool yet, buy one. It makes filling the system a breeze and you use it to test for leaks. As you apply the vacuum to remove the air from the system, when you get to a certain negative pressure (I don't remember the number...22 or 24 something) you turn the valves off and watch the gauge. If it doesn't move....no leaks. Then open the valve to the coolant bottle and coolant rushes in replacing the airless vacuum space and no air in the system, just fluid. Very useful tool and works on just about every system I have used it on as it comes with several sizes of rubber adapters to fit the diameter of the various caps out there. Just remember the system has to be close to empty for it to work properly and yo need a descent air compressor.
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  #186  
Old 03-25-2020, 03:25 PM
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thanks. thats one of those tools I havent needed but could have helped a few times I'm sure.

I ordered a chinese do it all, we'll see.
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  #187  
Old 03-26-2020, 11:37 AM
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While Steve's recommendation is VERY helpful for putting water into the system. the pressurized tester can also tell you if there's a leak because it won't hold pressure, either. The nice thing about the pressurized tester is you can often find the leak by seeing where the water is coming out. Nice when you can squeeze the water out without the engine running, fan blowing, and leaking water escaping as steam.
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Currently
- 1984 944 SP2 racer
- 1977 911 KM Special vintage racer
- 2012 Cayman R (also the wife's)
- 2000 Boxster S (now mine)

- 1995 993 (garage queen)
- 2007 Cayman S (wife's track beast)
- 2017 F350 (tow monster)
- 2018 Jeep Wrangler

Gone but not forgotten
- 1989 944S2
- 1979 RX7
- 1986 944
- 1991 944S2 (in car heaven...)
- 2001 Chevy Suburban 2500 (FIL's beast now)
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  #188  
Old 03-26-2020, 06:26 PM
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Cool to add just enough pressure to find the hidden leak. (or make a new one?? ) Good time to wear safety glasses and keep your mouth closed. Yuk!
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  #189  
Old 03-26-2020, 07:12 PM
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And hope it is not the heater core.
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  #190  
Old 03-26-2020, 11:10 PM
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you too, huh?
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