[Vicegrip]

I have been beating the crap out of the rusto stuff for 10 years now. Some chips and one lift up where the concrete was too smooth. I acid etched the floor the flood rinsed then vacuumed with a wet vac then flood rinsed while scrubbing with a stiff broom then wet vac. I wants to get the PH back to normal and to remove all loose dust particles.

Unlike some other stuff the rusto stuff can be recoated on itself. Getting a bit ratty? Take a day degrease and make it like new.

That said I have been beating the crap out of some top of the line pro stuff at HBL and it is the real deal.

[HoodPin]

Originally Posted by Vicegrip

.....That said I have been beating the crap out of some top of the line pro stuff at HBL and it is the real deal.

What's the cost/SF of the pro stuff?

[Eplebnista]

I am wrestling with the same issues. There are hundreds of threads on this topic in the "Flooring" forum at www.garagejournal.com. Epoxy is a popular choice but the consensus is that serious floor preparation is essential. Further, the epoxy needs to be a high solids content higher quality product than what you can buy in the big box stores, which are said to be prone to failure. Rust Bullet coating is being used by a lot of folks as it needs comparatively little floor prep but there is no long term user history as this has been in vogue for a little over a year.

Porcelain tile is comparable in cost if you get a real good price on the tile, but DIY install is pretty labor intensive. The result, if done properly, is as close to a maintenance free floor as you can get. Others use commercial grade (VCT) vinyl tile, which is easier to put down and requires less prep, but needs stripping and waxing to keep it in good shape. Unfortunately, a lot of common automotive chemicals will strip the wax right off VCT, which makes it sort of a no go for me.

I think I am either going to go with Rust Bullet and take my chances or porcelain tile if I can get help with putting it down.

I also have three gallons of Legacy Industrial acrylic sealant that I am thinking I am not going to use. I've kind of upgraded my expectations about appearance of the floor since I bought the sealant.

[Vicegrip]

take care in picking the tile and only use epoxy modified grout. I have 70 service bays with tile that is slick and 40 more that can't stay clean. Ether slippery or the dirt grabs. Might be easy to clean the tile but the grout is another issue. The grout lines make sweeping a bear and they grab dirt and oil

[Eric S]

I originally used inferior "epoxy" paint (no mixing should have been a clue), and it lifted the first time I parked on it. The cost, time and mess associated with diamond grinding it off was prohibitive. I went with RaceDeck and really like it. Easy to install, looks good, chemical resistant, damaged tiles easy to replace with spares, easier on knees than concrete, and thermal insulating. Double garage and small work area was about $1,100.

[Trak Ratt]

I etched, washed, etched and air dried for a week. Used high quality epoxy and my floor sucks!!! Kurt and friends knocked a big chip out of it within a month of completion and it been down hill ever since. I really, really really wished I'd just sealed it and moved on. Biggest problem I've had is chipping. Only one section by my lift actually "lifted" the rest is just chips

Bottom line; if you actually intend to work in the space, aren't as OCD as Jazz, meticulous as Kurt or have a score of minions just seal it and get on with your life.

[Vicegrip]

Meticulous? Eric poking dust out of rotors into a paper bag with a just right size drill bit is meticulous. (Or is that particular?) Weld slag bumble balls dancing around and dragging stuff by the light end is not good form. Unlike the garage forum regulars I dont wash wax and buff the floor every Friday night either. A clean shiny floor inhibits good work.
One key is film bond strength the other is film strength. The home DIY 2 part stuff will not have the film build and impact resistance of the top line pro stuff. It can have very high bond of done right and the substrate is good. Dont even think about floor paint.

[Trak Ratt]

Originally Posted by Vicegrip

... Dont even think about floor paint.

True dat, but chips is my down fall!!

[C3PC]

Check with Sherwin Williams, I used their Tile Clad II on two of my floors with no problems. Hot tires will not lift it, the only automotive chemical that I found to damage it is battery acid.

[cmartin]

Good info all, thanks for the insight.

just seal it and get on with your life.

That's where I might end up but I'll try and get some samples of some of the above. I still have some time, floor isnt poured yet but I dont want this to drap on.

the rest is just chips

I wonder if this is more an issue with the concrete or the paint? If the floor wasnt pained would it still chip? Too much water, wrong mix? I dunno concrete, just curious.