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  #191  
Old 07-14-2007, 10:50 PM
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BTW - I found a row of your wheel weights on the ground in the paddock. They were stuck to the asphalt pretty well...
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  #192  
Old 07-15-2007, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by KFJ View Post
BTW - I found a row of your wheel weights on the ground in the paddock. They were stuck to the asphalt pretty well...
Better than they stuck to my wheels, apparently.

Update 15.July.2007

Well, the big milestone weekend is over. Yesterday was kind of a mix the trying out the new car, listening for something to snap, worrying about everything, then dealing with the wheel weight issue. Today was "try to go faster" day.

Last night after my nap I put the car on the lift and gave it a good once over. Everything looked really, really good. One thing I do, esp on suspension projects, is use a paint pen to mark all the bolts I've torque to indicate that I did, in fact, torque them and to see if they move at all. No movement on anything suspension related.

After the inspection, I decided to raise the ride height in the front a little, as it was a little low IMO. We set the height on Friday, but I swear I lost almost 1/2" over the course of Sat. So up it went, and this got me a little more suspension travel, which is nice. It also lot me some of my camber, which sucks. Saturday I had the fronts running -2.4 degrees negative, but raising the front put me at about -1.9. So I lost 1/2 a degree. Backs are still at -2.5. The nice thing is I got much, much, MUCH more consistent wear on my RA1s this event. I think its a combination of the camber and not pushing so much in the front, which tended to eat tires pretty good.

Also last night I attached the front sway. With a little more ride height I was able to get it on without caliper interference, which was my problem earlier. Since I'm running the factory rear sway, I set it to a loose as possible (about 75% of the way out) and it was almost perfect. It cured a lot of the twitchiness I had yesterday. I'll stiffen it up when I get the adjustable rear sway on. Looks like some Wevo mounts are in my future.

Also in my future is a rebuild on my rear calipers. I get a lot of squeaking and groaning at low speeds, which makes me think that the seals aren't pulling the pads back enough. I found a guy in NJ who sells the seals and boots for $25 a pair, so $100 for a full rear caliper rebuild isn't bad.

Other than that, the only thing the car needs on the track now is a driver that can take full advantage of it. I kind of ran like crap this weekend, with a lot of 1:33 laps. My braking is teh suck, big time. For my birthday my wife got me a GPS track data acquisition system, and it shows longitudinal Gs - negative = braking. You could see how bad I was braking, esp into T1. Nothing like hard data to confirm what you already know. My best time of the weekend was a 1:31 with a passenger in the car, so I should be running high 29s in this weather and into the 28s in cooler weather. Just need to take my skirt off first, I guess.

So my next even is the 3 day August event unless I pick up a weekday event sometime before. As you can imagine, I've spent way too much time in the garage lately and need to make it up to the family. Between now and then, plans are:

- Make sure the rear glass isn't leaking
- Re-install the carpeting
- Install new RS door panels
- Mount and hardwire GPS lap timing system
- Tweak alignment and corner balance
- Do the dial gauge bump steer adjustment
- Figure out WTF to do with the rear sway
- Build removable rear speaker shelf

So the big part of the project is done. Now is just a bunch of odds and ends and clean up work. Thank God it's over.

At this point, I need to take a minute and thanks all of the people who helped me on this project. In the last 6 weeks I disassembled and completely rebuilt most of my car to the point where it ran two great days at Summit with only the wheel weight issue. This was an ridiculous amount of work and there is no way I did this by myself. In fact, not even close. If I had to guess, I'd say other Dorkis, combined, put in over 100 hours worth of work to help me get the car back together. Charlie, KFJ, }{, Noah, Black Talon, Matt DeMaria, and Pari - thanks guys. All of you guys came through in a big way for me, and I sincerely appreciate it. I could never have gotten the car back together without your help. Also thanks to Cliff Claven, Josh, Eli, Bill Miller, Peter Kaufman, VASteve, Mackpipes, and all the guys I'm sure I'm forgetting (I'm really tired) for parts, advice and other help along the way.
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  #193  
Old 07-15-2007, 11:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazzbass View Post
Between now and then, plans are:

- Make sure the rear glass isn't leaking
- Re-install the carpeting
- Install new RS door panels
- Mount and hardwire GPS lap timing system
- Tweak alignment and corner balance
- Do the dial gauge bump steer adjustment
- Figure out WTF to do with the rear sway
- Build removable rear speaker shelf
- Swap brains back with Dr. K.
Fixed that for ya'

GREAT JOB, Chris.

Peter
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  #194  
Old 03-11-2014, 02:42 PM
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Default 911SC fuel leak in tunnel

Chris,

Thanks to Hoophead for leading me to ye ol' thread.
Nice thread and good pictures.

Do you recall the type/size of the fuel lines running through the tunnel? I fired my car up and the tunnel started filling up with gas, so I know the fuel line failed.
I need to replace/repair this by tomorrow evening, so any info on these lines would be a big help.

Thanks, Chip Taylor



Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazzbass View Post
[B]Update 28.June.2007.

While most of the track junkies trying to sleep the night before WG, I was, as usual, working on the never ending project. Things are really starting to come together, as the disassemble, clean and order new parts part of the process is all but finished. In fact, it should have been done with all ordering, but I decided to bite the bullet and buy the engine fuel lines.

For those that don't know, a known issue on Carreras is the main fuel injection line on the engine. Over time fatigue gets to it and it springs a leak. Of gasoline. At about 45-50psi. All over your engine. This is bad. The problem is a new line is $400 . Well, I debated getting one made from a hydraulic shop (cost, about $32) but in the end bought the new Porsche line. Why? Two reasons: 1. No time to dick around with the hydraulic shop. A fellow dorki (88carrera) had a good experience with a place in Baltimore putting new fittings and rubber hoses on his old line. To do this, however, means driving to Baltimore. If they do it while I wait, its a 4 hour trip. If I have to go and come back another time, its a 4 hour trip. I can't spend half a day, missing work, to save $350. I loose more from not billing. So, in 5 minutes, I had new lines on the way. 2. I'd always obsess about the made up line when on the track. I want to change the line and not think about it, not check it after every run to make sure the new fittings are OK, etc. Oh, well, no one said this was a cheap hobby. When done, however, all of the rubber fuel lines on my car will be brand spankin' new.

Last night I re-installed the master cylinder/brake booster. Not thinking, I bolted it down and torqued the nuts. Then realized that I needed some play in the booster to reattach the brake actuating rod. Dammit. Looking inside the car, I figured I could remove the pedal assy with about the same amount of trouble and accomplish the same task, so I went that route. While I had the pedal assy out, I looked at what it would take to rebuild. I've had a set of bronze pedal bushings laying around for about 2 years, never wanting the hassle of the rebuild because I heard it was a pain in the ass and mine was fine. Well, after getting the assy out, I found I was wrong on both counts. The original plastic bushings were noticeably worn, and its was extremely easy to rebuild.

Attachment 6017

It took all of 30mins from the start of pulling the pedals out until the cluster was rebuilt. Granted, I already had the floor board out and easy access to the bolts in the steering rack tunnel, so figure 1 hour if everything is in place. And, BTW, it's unbelievable how much crap there is under the pedals.

Attachment 6018

I'm really happy about the way that turned out - believe it or not I had almost resisted the temptation to not do the rebuild, thinking it was a 3 hour job. It's not. So tonight I reinstalled the pedals and finished up one of the major projects - battery relocation/rewire:

Attachment 6016

The battery is in and secured. The switch is installed and all wiring is reattached. If the engine was in the car I could start it up right now. BTW, notice the black smuggler's box.

The stuff I used is acid-proof paint made for painting battery boxes in aircraft. Old Tee turned me on to this, being the former aircraft mechanic. Should work as well or better than POR (cross fingers).

Tomorrow - brake lines and e-brake. Then suspension goodies start going in, starting with the rear shocks, then on to the front. Hopefully Saturday the engine goes back in and the rest of the suspension/brake/fuel components are in by the end of the weekend. Which leaves body and interior work to do. Getting there...
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  #195  
Old 03-11-2014, 03:36 PM
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Ugh, forgot I had to tackle that fuel line replacement ~ 2 years ago. A bit of a pain. Getting to use TR's lift and getting help from him made it quite a bit easier. Having two people working to feed the line back through the tunnel was definitely helpful.
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  #196  
Old 03-11-2014, 05:35 PM
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Chip,
Wow, hope you get it fixed and sorry I can't help you but Jazz would be the man on this. Good luck.

7 years later, I realize I posted above in a way that could be misunderstood. By "brains" above, I meant DMEs. Chris and I swapped, I think.
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2017 VW GTI SE (DD)

Gone and missed:
1992 Miata ("SSM") race car
2009 911 C2S Coupe
2004 Toyota Prius - sold to son's girlfriend
2006 Dodge Durango
2003 Acura MDX
86 Black 911 Coupe race car
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82 WineRedMetallic 911 Targa
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  #197  
Old 03-11-2014, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roo View Post
Chris,

Thanks to Hoophead for leading me to ye ol' thread.
Nice thread and good pictures.

Do you recall the type/size of the fuel lines running through the tunnel? I fired my car up and the tunnel started filling up with gas, so I know the fuel line failed.
I need to replace/repair this by tomorrow evening, so any info on these lines would be a big help.
Chip -

Sent you a PM but thought I'd update this thread. I can't help much with aftermarket fuel line info, unfortunately. When I replaced mine, I bought new lines from Porsche. IIRC, they were a "Germany-only" thing, so not much help for you by tomorrow. No clue what an appropriate aftermarket option would be, sorry.
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  #198  
Old 03-11-2014, 06:52 PM
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pull them out and find the leak. If the tubing is in good shape other than where the leak is you can splice them with the right size double end barb fitting. I make a poor mans tubing clamp by drilling a same size as the tubing hole in a chunk of 2X4 then saw it in 1/2 through the hole. clamp the tubing in the wood block with about 1 1/2 sticking out Heat the tubing until it is just slightly soft and then gently mallet the double ended barb into the tube. Now clamp the other tube in the wood block and grab the barb fitting by the fat part in the middle with a Vice-grip brand clamping plier. Heat the second tube and hand press the tube in with a tap or two on the Vice-grip as needed to seat the tub on the fitting.

The tubing Porsche used is real good stuff and tends to last well unless it gets a hole drilled in it or cooked while welding in a seat base or the like.

You can leak test in place with compressed air or pull them out after taping a follower cord to the straight end. I like to use a section old extension cord and strapping tape. Plug the tube so fuel does not dribble out and soften the tape.
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Last edited by Vicegrip; 03-11-2014 at 07:00 PM.
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