[SilverStreak]

The last set of 97's I had lasted forever it seemed but I went back to Pagid Orange because I'd used them before and less dust. We'll see.

Dr. K thanks for the link to Pelican. That's quit a set up. I may just cut up my shop vac and save some money

[Dr K]

Originally Posted by Alan Herod

Paul Weston has indicated there is an alternative for 996TT which requires a one time purchase hat. I have not seen any pricing info yet.

Paul told me that Performance Friction makes an excellent rotor, with a separate ALUMINUM (lighter) hat. He said it may be less expensive to replace the ring, but you need to use theirs to fit that hat.

Peter

[HoodPin]

Originally Posted by SilverStreak

......
Dr. K thanks for the link to Pelican. That's quit a set up. I may just cut up my shop vac and save some money

Hey....you could install a 120V converter in the front trunk, and then run the shop vac in reverse to provide cooling to the brakes. That way you could seal the openings on the airdam and clean up the aerodynamics....

[Trak Ratt]

Originally Posted by hoophead

Similar experience here: I got a whopping 7 track days on my last set of 930 drilled rotors with the 97s. Unfortunately there are no reasonably priced non-drilled alternatives. I've switched to pagid yellows to see if that helps.

It's been theorized by someone much smarter than me that the 97s work well as a small pad, e.g. carrera, but in large pad form they generate too much heat and crack the rotors.

SC has 951 calipers up front. Carrera rotors last ~2 seasons before small cracks grow.

[hoophead]

Originally Posted by Trak Ratt

SC has 951 calipers up front. Carrera rotors last ~2 seasons before small cracks grow.

Forgot about your case - so maybe the small vs. large pad isn't the whole story.

A few points:
- My rotors are drilled like Alan's - I think that causes premature cracking. If I could find a flat rotor at the same price I would use that instead. I did have a twice-as-expensive set of slotted's last year, and they lasted about the same before succumbing to wear, but they may have been made of poorer metal.
- It seems to be heat related: the cracking is a little worse on the passenger side, behind the oil cooler.
- I probably brake too much

[HoodPin]

Well......it appears I've left my DumbAssGene out in public again. Thanks to one Dorki who politely sent me a PM, and another Dorki who recently introduced me to www.livermoreperformance.com, I'm now a bit more edumacated about the Hawk line of performance brake pads. It appears there is no such thing as an HPS+ pad. It also appears that I've been using Hawk HPS pads, which is their least performance brake pad. Dohhhh....

I've still got some pad "inventory" to work thru. But I guess I'm going to have to start shopping for something better. Will probably continue using the HPS pads for street use, and start switching to something better for track days. I've just ordered some PF97's which should be delivered tomorrow. Lesson learned.......

[BlackTalon]

Tony -- be careful, if you brake harder you will lose all that momentum you carry though the corners so well!

[KevinOyler]

Hawks HPS = High Performance Street; HP+ = High Performance Street/Track. Hawk Blue = enduro type track pad. The blues work well on the track, but squeal a lot.

I cracked my S4 front rotors this spring using PF97 pads.

PF97's work well, but rely too much on iron content, which equals sparks out of the wheels while braking, rust stains on the driveway after rains and burnt-in pad dust residue on the wheels which requires an abrasive pad to remove. And cost more too. The bad out weighs the good = fail.

[HoodPin]

Originally Posted by KevinOyler

Hawks HPS = High Performance Street; HP+ = High Performance Street/Track. Hawk Blue = enduro type track pad. The blues work well on the track, but squeal a lot.

I cracked my S4 front rotors this spring using PF97 pads.

PF97's work well, but rely too much on iron content, which equals sparks out of the wheels while braking, rust stains on the driveway after rains and burnt-in pad dust residue on the wheels which requires an abrasive pad to remove. And cost more too. The bad out weighs the good = fail.

Kevin,
Thanks for the info. As far as the dust/iron, I'll just plan to keep the airtank full, and try to blow off as much as possible during the weekend. PF97's & Hawk Blues were the only thing I could get on short notice (OG Racing). Have been advised that PF97 are easier on rotors than Hawk Blues. Fortunately, none of our wheels are concours quality....

[Mark in Baltimore]

Enough talk about pads. Where can I get a spray-painted avatar???