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Dr K · #1 09-22-2010, 10:59 AM

Taking BT's advice, I called Matt, who brought up another issue - getting the old studs out. The studs are press-fit in, and he removes them in a press in order to prevent bending the flange. If one Dremeled-out a space behind it, how does one get the old studs out?

Trak Ratt · #2 09-22-2010, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr K

Taking BT's advice, I called Matt, who brought up another issue - getting the old studs out. The studs are press-fit in, and he removes them in a press in order to prevent bending the flange. If one Dremeled-out a space behind it, how does one get the old studs out?

If I don’t take the axel off the car I put an old lug nut on the end and apply “persuasion” with a BFH. Just like if you were at the track and one broke

If you don't want the stud don't bother with the nut. Could also use a punch on the end of the stud to drive it out. Put away your tool, not needed for this.

N Fotouhi · #3 09-22-2010, 11:41 AM

I always thought that the studs need to be driven out and pressed in. Is that not the case?

smdubovsky · #4 09-22-2010, 11:46 AM

Normally pressed in and out. VERY few things are properly "driven" in w/ a hammer.

Trak Ratt · #5 09-22-2010, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smdubovsky

Normally pressed in and out. VERY few things are properly "driven" in w/ a hammer.

YEs but I was saying to drive out with a hammer, but you need to pull it in with a lug nut, socket and washer (or?) for spacer. U no I was referring to what to do when you can't or don't want to take off the axel? I have a very nice press I use when everything is apart... sadly it's not available at the track.

smdubovsky · #6 09-22-2010, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trak Ratt

U no I was referring to

Yes I no

Wonder if something like a ball joint press could be used to get them out w/o beating on the flange/bearing w/ a hammer.

Dr K · #7 09-22-2010, 02:36 PM

Longer studs ordered. I broke down and did 2-day shipping so I could try to do it over the weekend. If they don't come out reasonably, I'll run the wheels as is (lose 1" of track on each side). If I break a flange, I'll order new, take apart over the weekend, pick up the "Sir Tools" bearing removal/replacement set, and be ready when the new part comes in on Tuesday to put everything back together. I've had a NIB rear wheel bearing in the freezer for about 2 years...