[86911TLCAB]

So I changed the timing belt on the wife's Lexus this past weekend. After the experience on the BMW, it was relatively straight forward, though the space is somewhat limited for the Bank A camshaft.

After putting it all together I am now getting a check engine light and a P0016 code (as well as a few codes associated with misfires in that bank of the V6 engine).

The P0016 is associated with Camshaft - Crankshaft position sensor. Pulled the sensor, and tested it and it shows about 2000 ohm reading. Also bought and replaced the existing with another, to no avail. CEL keeps coming back.

After some research I have discovered the codes are common following timing belt changes when the belt has possibly slipped a tooth or was put on a tooth or two off. I tried my best, but as it was very difficult to see, I can imagine my having put it on incorrectly. I intend to take it apart and look at the cam line ups with the TB covers/marks to see if it is in fact misaligned.

My question: is there a way to get the belt to move a notch while still tensioned or should I go back to square one and release the tension and put the belt on again?

TIA for any advice.

[cmartin]

Did you locked the cams in place and/or together? I would take it apart, at least the cam covers and line up the marks.

[hoophead]

I recently had the pleasure of doing the timing belt on the wife's Chrysler minivan. It is also a dual overhead cam with poor visibility.

I found it was almost impossible to get the timing belt to be tensioned and in the correct position on both cams at the same time. Two hands just weren't enough. The trick was to turn back one of the cams towards the other by 0.5 to 1.0 teeth, so that I could get the belt on correctly.

I figured this out on the second try - always run it through one full cycle (720 degrees at the crank) to check that the marks still line up. The first time through (before I did the cam trick), I thought I had everything set but then it was one tooth off on one of the cams.

[cmartin]

Two hands just weren't enough. The trick was to turn back one of the cams towards the other by 0.5 to 1.0 teeth, so that I could get the belt on correctly.

100%

Depends on the engine, sometimes you can put a bolt through the cam gear to lock it in place, sometimes you can make a 'tool', other times a spring clamp on the belt/gear hold it in place, sometime you preload one cam a tooth off or so. Other times you do it 2,3... times until you get it right. It's not easy sometimes.

[86911TLCAB]

Thanks...I held the front cam with a breaker bar and clamped it...didn't have an extra set of hands for the back cam and to pull the pin on the tensioner...I did put some of those large black paper clamps on the rear cam to try and keep the belt in place...after tensioning and cycling the crank it appeared to me to all be in line. I am wondering if I simply had it off since I could really see it and was doing it all by hand. will take it apart and take a picture this time so I can see if it is really lining up or not. Is it possible it jumped after starting the car... Or very unlikely? I just keep thinking that I checked it more than once and the belt was in the same position on both Cams and the crank as when I lined it up...

if the cam is one tooth counter clockwise does that mean the timing is advanced or retarded?

The car actually runs quite well. I noticed the average mpg went up 3 or 4 mpg than it was previously after I changed out the camshaft sensor. but surely want to get CEL light to clear and have it run as it should.

[86911TLCAB]

Re did it and it was clearly one notch off. Running well again. Swapped the plugs today also. Why do they make it so hard..

[cmartin]

Well done

[VaSteve]

Originally Posted by hoophead

I

I found it was almost impossible to get the timing belt to be tensioned and in the correct position on both cams at the same time. Two hands just weren't enough. The trick was to turn back one of the cams towards the other by 0.5 to 1.0 teeth, so that I could get the belt on correctly.

I fig.

Yup...same as 944.

[86911TLCAB]

I used a ratcheting wrench on the front cam (as it seemed to want to roll forward). Then was able to get the rear cam to sit and once I had the belt in position and lined up, clamped the belt with a pair of needle nose vice grips over an old piece of hose to protect the belt. This all helped to keep everything in place and keep the belt in place when I released the tensioner. Am convinced I improperly put it on the first time. Will always count the notches between appropriate points on the cams and the crank prior to removing any belts in the future..now on to the bmw rear bushings, SC's torsion bar bushings and then get busy on the RSR before golf season gets into full swing (pardon the pun)