[Ken Robinson]

While at the Tech inspection my 81SC passed on all issues except brakes. (This was my first time through and wanted to get a sense of what was needed for DE.) I was planning on installing new pads and bleeding the lines while I was there anyway.

While Kurt was showing me the ropes, the second caliper (front right) we came to was frozen so this shot down my entire day. The brake pads were in excellent condition in the front. Upon further inspection, the roters in the rear needed to be replaced. One of the rear caliphers may have also been frozen

Since I have no idea about what the PO did with the brake system I thought I redo everything all at once. Rebult caliphers, new roters, new pads and new brake lines all the way around along with a brake flush.

Question - what type of roters to get? I see the basic OEM (cheapest), Zimmerman cross drilled and slotted types. Any recommendations?

I alrady have Metal Master brake pads.

For brakes lines - should I go with the stainless steel brake hose set or use new OEM rubber?

Anything else I'm misssing???

Most important question - anyone feel like helping me throw this project? My place or yours? I bring anytype of beer, food and women!

Thanks,
Ken

[William Miller]

Do you mean the bleed valve was frozen?
It seems like if it was there are a lot of things to try before you go thru this whole project.
One thing I can think of is that if it was stuck, It probably wasn't a good time or the place to try and fix it because there is a chance you would have been stranded. (It could quickly turn into a bigger project.)

If it was the piston that was frozen, you should certainly fix that ASAP, but I'm not sure you need to replace them.

Lastly, I was told that someone had put a right caliper on the left side.
The bleed valve was on the bottom and not the top. I didn't question the source, but maybe I should have. It would seem if it was the wrong way that the brake hose would have also been in a funky spot.


I'm glad you posted this because I have a lot of the same questions.
Now I gotta go look at my calipers again. This is driving me nuts!

I'd love to help, but I burned a lot of Brownie Points just going to the Inspection.
It will be a few weeks before I get some stuff done arround the house.



Anyway if your replacing stuff I may need a front left caliper.

[type954]

i just did a rebuild of the front calipers and i thought is wasn't too bad for a novice. rebuild kits cost about $12 per caliper. basically, remove caliper, remove dust boot, remove piston (Lucky helped me, thanks again Lucky) piston was blown out using compressed air, remove seal, clean up everything, new seal, install piston (used Sil-glyde recommended in caliper rebuild article on Pelican), adjust piston to 20 degrees, install dust boot and retainer spring, install caliper yada, yada. you can do it if i can.

[Ken Robinson]

Bill,

The RF and LR pistons were frozen. If I go with rebuilt caliphers you can have the LF.

I don't have the air compressor, etc. to do the rebuild and would definitely want someone to help me there if I wen that route - I'd feel more comfortable putting rebuilt caliphers on.

Ken

[Charlie Stylianos]

Ken,

FYI: Vertex sells rebuilt calipers front and rear for ~$100/piece.

See here:

http://vertexauto.com/epcproductdeta...vertexauto.com


Their rebuild kits are ~$14/piece.

The only tricky part to rebuilding the calipers is getting the old pistons out and placing them in their correct 20-degree orientation. If you have a bicycle air pump, you can rig a decent air compressor with a spare Schrader valve, short piece of hose and a couple hose clamps. To get the sticky piston(s) free you can hold the free piston in place with a c-clamp and pressurize the caliper until the old one pops out. Maybe a little PB Blaster into the brake line (after dumping most fluid) and on the exterior of the piston (after removing dust shield) will help break up the rust/crud.

BTW: Zimmerman OEM replacements (solid) and the OEM rubber lines are the recommended replacements. The x-drilled rotors have a tendency to crack around the holes when subjected to track duty and the SS lines will not show wear due to the SS shielding and are 'supposed' to be replace every few years (sources say).

[Jim Richards]

I would recommend OEM or slotted rotors...not x-drilled, and I would also recommend using the stock rubber brake lines.

[Ken Robinson]

Thanks Charlie,

Vertex is where I had found the rebuilt caliphers also. I'll search for the solid rotors by Zimmerman and the OEM rubber hose lines.

Thanks again,
Ken

[Parenn911]

Ken, maybe this thread will help in deciding what rotors to get.
http://www.dorkiphus.com/porsche/viewtopic.php?t=1021

[Rick Lee]

If you're in a time crunch, spring for the rebuilt calipers and then rebuild your own when you get around to it and eBay them off. I see them on eBay all the time for $90.

[William Miller]

Ken, If you take them off and bring them over, I'll help.
I just can't squeese in enough time to go to your place and work there.

Just a thought:
When you remove the calipers, leave the hose attached. Push down the pedal and the pistons should come most of the way out. I've done this before on other cars, but haven't had the need yet on mine.


Are the frozen out and dragging? I assume they are making the car stop.

Fact or fiction: Can rotors on these cars be turned?