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  #21  
Old 07-12-2011, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trak Ratt View Post
Then mine's broke cause it still has problems in T6 with anything close to 1/4 tank.
Use street tires instead. That ought to fix it.
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  #22  
Old 07-12-2011, 12:48 PM
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Well it was supposed to be addressed. There is a bunch of plumbing inside the SC tank when I shined a light in there. Has to be a lot better then just empty space like the LH tank.
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  #23  
Old 07-12-2011, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Lupin..the..3rd View Post
Use street tires instead. That ought to fix it.
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  #24  
Old 07-12-2011, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by cmcfaul@aol.com View Post
Let me know if you think I am smoking crack.
...
I am thinking about cutting both tanks in half right above the seam.
Doable, but you're smoking crack *IF* they really line up that well (no telling if there is a subtle stamping difference), then I'd flange one to fit over the other and braze them. Tons easier than butt welding that much sheet metal and keeping it straight and leak proof.
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  #25  
Old 07-12-2011, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smdubovsky View Post
Doable, but you're smoking crack *IF* they really line up that well (no telling if there is a subtle stamping difference), then I'd flange one to fit over the other and braze them. Tons easier than butt welding that much sheet metal and keeping it straight and leak proof.
Never even seen crack.

Sheet metal is rather forgiving and tanks are not all that critical shape wise. I have opened and closed a couple of tanks. YMMV. I think you are more likely to have two flanges line up than have one tank 1/2 slide into another with no gaps.

I prep the tank flanges with a rounded off chisel and some sheet metal tools util they are mostly flat. I then mate the halves and clamp the flange all around with all my vicegrips and small C clamps. Some pushing and pulling is needed along the way. I then use the little Mig to tack weld, bouncing from 6 to 12, 9 / 3, 2 / 8 and the like. Once the tank is tacked up I Mig weld in 6 inch or so strips grinding the tacks and previous starts out as I go. ( I tried Tig but found that Mig works well when setup right and leaves a nice looking smooth bead.) After all is done I plug the tank and pressurise to 10 PSI and wet it down looking for leaks with a spray bottle of soapy water. I like to line the tanks with pour in and slosh around type liner pin holes or not.

You can take the original tank cut out the bad area, install improved pickups and baffels through the cut out and then make a new section. This will require time, good welding skills and good metal working skills. To pay some one would likely excede the cost of a NOS or replacement tank.
I bet that someone can put the top of one tank on the bottom of another but in your case it will require you to risk the now good tank you have along with the bad one. I would be inclined to fix the bad one without risking the good one.
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  #26  
Old 07-13-2011, 07:57 AM
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I know you have the SC tank for now, however, I just see this


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...iced-sell.html
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  #27  
Old 07-13-2011, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
I would be inclined to fix the bad one without risking the good one.
That's great advice, dont make this too complicated.
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  #28  
Old 07-13-2011, 12:34 PM
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In the back of my mind I am looking for an excuse to buy a welder.

Saw the tank on Pelican. Shipping is a PITA.

Chris
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  #29  
Old 07-13-2011, 01:03 PM
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This is probably more trouble than its worth. But is there any merit to the following strategy:

1. Cut an access opening in the top of the LH style tank
2. Insert some fuel cell foam/sponge material in the bottom of the tank, providing some clearance for a "reservoir" around the fuel pickup.
3. Reseal the tank with a removable "cap" on the opening, to allow for future inspection of the foam, and/or replacement.

I wonder if the fuel cell foam can provide some level of fuel splash control, to avoid fuel starvation to some degree. Not as good as genuine baffles, but maybe better than an empty container??
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  #30  
Old 07-13-2011, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmcfaul@aol.com View Post
Saw the tank on Pelican. Shipping is a PITA.
IIRC, Stopkos is the guy who bought our boxster. Its a metal box, just slap a label on it and throw it on a greyhound bus If they can ship fiberglass bumpers a tank should survive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AJ986S View Post
1. Cut an access opening in the top of the LH style tank
I think that would work (if filled completely w/ foam it would provide good anti-slosh but still not solve the starvation issue) but I think it defeats his trying to look like a LH tank and would be really hard to seal.
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