[Dandelion]

FWIW, I worked on a door latch on a prior car (not a sports car) - the door latch plates were mounted to the body through slotted holes. It's a feature, not a bug (on some cars).

[catron1]

Very nice!

[BillC]

Time to work on the latch plate support bracket.

First step was to put some M6 screws in the nut plate and mark out the travel limits of the plate on the bracket (slide the plate in each direction and then mark with a sharpie):


Then, I CAD'ed up a box to fit over the nut plate. In case you didn't know, this is Cardboard Aided Design -- ancient technology at it's finest!


Then, I transferred the design to some sheet metal, cut it out and welded up the corners:


Then, I tacked the box in place on the bracket, making sure the nut plate is both inside the box and could still move around:

I only tacked it because the box has no structural purpose, and I sealed around it with seam sealer.

Then, I fitted the bracket in place, using long screws with extra nuts to hold the bracket in place for welding:


Here's what it looks like all done:

[Dr K]

Nice work, Bill!

[BillC]

Next step is to replace the rot under the jack point, which looks like this:

Unfortunately, from this angle it's hard to see the shallow pyramid shape formed into the factory metal, but it's there. That shape is why I'm making a pattern before cutting metal

First step is to make a pattern, using masking tape:


The tape conforms to the pyramid-like shape of the original metal, so I can transfer the pattern to new, flat metal (after cutting the pattern open).


After cutting out the piece of sheet metal (.071" galvaneal from McMaster-Carr), I set up a set of clamps on the mill as a mini pan brake:


Here's what the metal looks like bent to shape, and then welded:


As you may have noticed, I made the part oversize, because I haven't cut out the original metal yet and don't know what I'll find underneath -- at this stage, it's easier to remove extra metal once I know the hole size than to have to add it later. Also, the center "socket" will be another piece formed to match the replacement jack tube and then welded to the backside of this piece.

[BillC]

Now it's time to make the recessed center pocket for the jack post.

First steps were to cut out a blank from the same sheet metal and then bend it to shape:


Then, the pocket is held in place with magnets and welded:


Then, the pocked is cleaned up on the face, and the post is put in place. The post is just dropped in for now, to make sure it will fit later for final fitting and welding.

[cmartin]

I like your brake

[BillC]

Every so often, this car gives me a pleasant surprise. I cut out the jackpoint "pyramid", and this is what it looks like underneath:

[Cairo94507]

That is indeed a nice little gift.

[BillC]

Had some free time this afternoon to finish welding and grinding the inner pyramid replacement. Doesn't look too horrible:


Next steps will be to fit the jackpoint tube and the outer pyramid. Both of these are replacements from RD, so that should go faster.