[Jazzbass]

Originally Posted by rothaus

Once it's complete I will drive it. LOL.

Cheers
Engelbert

Only driving I'd be doing is driving it to the truck that's picking it up for it's new millionaire owner.

[rothaus]

More on the engine.

The cam housings are cleaned a bit.



I had to drill out one of the exhaust studs.



All the heads are cleaned and bead blasted.



Looking at the crank case, it almost looks like there are inserts for the head studs.



On the right is one of pistons from this engine. I cannot tell who made it, no marks on it. The piston on the left is a Mahle piston.



Short after I got the car I found a set of piston and cylinders.



I measured the set of piston and cylinders and they are out of the specs. The spare set I have is good.

The cylinders from the engine are cast iron, the spare, right in the picture is aluminum.





Here is a picture of the cylinder wall.



I checked the run-out of the crank shaft and it was less than 0.01



Still sorting thru all the parts and see what need to be done.

Cheers
Engelbert

[rothaus]

Getting back on it.

Started sorting out some items and blasted the Cylinder cooling sheets.



And powder coated them. One is missing in the picture. That need some small area repaired.



Small stuff, but there will be more progress coming up soon.

Happy New Year
Engelbert

[cmartin]

Thanks for the update, the tinwork turned out really well.

[Noah]

Are you sending the case out to get line-bored and all the rest? My '70T case needed quite a bit of help at the machine shop. BTW the advice I got was that if you switch to aluminum p/c's, you should install squirters in the case. The alum p/c's have closer tolerances than the iron/aluminum ones and temps need to be kept better in check or else you get premature wear.

[rothaus]

Originally Posted by Noah

Are you sending the case out to get line-bored and all the rest? My '70T case needed quite a bit of help at the machine shop. BTW the advice I got was that if you switch to aluminum p/c's, you should install squirters in the case. The alum p/c's have closer tolerances than the iron/aluminum ones and temps need to be kept better in check or else you get premature wear.

Yes, the casing, Crank, cams, heads, rods, rockers, all at Ollie's.

The Case Main bores need aligned ($$), the case already has squirters, will be hot tanked, media tumbled, cleaned, etc. The cams need to re-grind, new bushings for rockers, rods. New valve guides, valves, springs. I hope it will not add more to the list.

I'm still have not decided if I go with Carrera tensioner, or keep it original.

Thanks for the input.

Cheers
Engelbert

[Noah]

Originally Posted by rothaus

Yes, the casing, Crank, cams, heads, rods, rockers, all at Ollie's.

The Case Main bores need aligned ($$), the case already has squirters, will be hot tanked, media tumbled, cleaned, etc. The cams need to re-grind, new bushings for rockers, rods. New valve guides, valves, springs. I hope it will not add more to the list.

I'm still have not decided if I go with Carrera tensioner, or keep it original.

Thanks for the input.

Cheers
Engelbert

My bill at Ollie's for the case alone was (gulp) over $2K. Did all the surface planing, line boring, decking, etc, and got pretty much everything timecerted. On the upside I have no oil leaks (tip: use a glaze of 574 on breather cap, chain boxes, chain covers, and sump gasket). As for cams, I went with a Solex/E grind that works really well. Strong midrange like an E but climbs to redline like an S.

As for tensioners, I went through the same considerations. The pressure fed tensioners are crazy expensive now so what I did is get my idler arms rebushed with wide bushings (Henry at Supertec does this for about $140) and used SC tensioners that I rebuilt myself. You should be able to get core tensioners for $100 and the rebuild kits for $40/pair. The wide bushings plus rebuilt SC tensioners is pretty much bulletproof, saves a ton of money, and looks stock.

[rothaus]

Originally Posted by Noah

My bill at Ollie's for the case alone was (gulp) over $2K. Did all the surface planing, line boring, decking, etc, and got pretty much everything timecerted. On the upside I have no oil leaks (tip: use a glaze of 574 on breather cap, chain boxes, chain covers, and sump gasket). As for cams, I went with a Solex/E grind that works really well. Strong midrange like an E but climbs to redline like an S.

As for tensioners, I went through the same considerations. The pressure fed tensioners are crazy expensive now so what I did is get my idler arms rebushed with wide bushings (Henry at Supertec does this for about $140) and used SC tensioners that I rebuilt myself. You should be able to get core tensioners for $100 and the rebuild kits for $40/pair. The wide bushings plus rebuilt SC tensioners is pretty much bulletproof, saves a ton of money, and looks stock.

Thanks for the hint with the tensioner. I actually have a set of SC tensioner. This sounds like a good option.

I think I will end up the same way with my case, Oh boy.

Cheers
Engelbert

[Noah]

Here's a pic from my tensioner rebuild. It's actually pretty simple -- some threads on Pelican cover it.

[rothaus]

Originally Posted by Noah

Here's a pic from my tensioner rebuild. It's actually pretty simple -- some threads on Pelican cover it.

Great, Thanks, I will check it out.

Thanks
Engelbert