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  #11  
Old 09-04-2014, 09:34 AM
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Here is how I did it with not much left to hold on.

http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/showpos...3&postcount=10



Cheers
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  #12  
Old 09-04-2014, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catron1 View Post


This stud extractor could work for you, "German Made" its a little pricy but worth it. $139

http://www.samstagsales.com/klann.htm#web_special
Search titan stud remover on amazon... looks to be the same one for $30.
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  #13  
Old 09-04-2014, 01:30 PM
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had it welded and removed, took all of 5 minutes...good advice, thanks!
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  #14  
Old 09-04-2014, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crg View Post
had it welded and removed, took all of 5 minutes...good advice, thanks!
Another happy ending!

I'm just curious if the braintrust thinks that the welding approach also provides some of the needed heat into the broken bolt/stud, facilitating its eventual removal.
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Last edited by HoodPin; 09-04-2014 at 01:55 PM.
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  #15  
Old 09-04-2014, 01:55 PM
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I'm no braintrust nor do I play one on tv but it def did heat it up enough to melt that loctite
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  #16  
Old 09-17-2014, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoodPin View Post
Another happy ending!

I'm just curious if the braintrust thinks that the welding approach also provides some of the needed heat into the broken bolt/stud, facilitating its eventual removal.
That tool worked for me to remove my broken head studs, I wonder how he got through the exhaust bolts..
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  #17  
Old 09-18-2014, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoodPin View Post
Another happy ending!

I'm just curious if the braintrust thinks that the welding approach also provides some of the needed heat into the broken bolt/stud, facilitating its eventual removal.
When I welded a nut onto a broken motormount stud on an aluminum Audi engine, the stud turned out quite easily. Prior to the welding, I tried two different stud removers and applied extreme pressure (and also heat from an acetylene torch), but had no luck.

The heat from the welding definitely had a big effect on my job.
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  #18  
Old 06-23-2019, 05:59 AM
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hi gents, I'm new to this forum..
I'm trying to remove some broken dilavar studs from a 3.2... According to the Pelican How To, they say you cannot weld a nut to dilavar...

But above, you have done it.

I just bought myself a 3 in 1 welder.. Mig, Stick and Lift Tig.

Can I ask what type of weld you used? And what sort of wire or filler rod you used?

Dilavar being an alloy, can a steel nut be welded to it?

Thanks for the help
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