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#1
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broken head stud removal?
i broke one of my dilavar head studs, too much heat on the stud itself i guess, anyone have a good way to get it out? have an inch or two exposed?
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craig 1989 C4 |
#2
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Top or bottom, engine in or out, for your signature 964 C4 or other? The dearth of information is regrettable! Most use heat at the case to remove, hard(er) to do if engine still in car.
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David I hope to arrive to my death, late, in love, and a little drunk! Just because I don't care doesn't mean I don't understand... Homer Simpson "That's what's keeping me out of F1.... Too much mental maturity...." N0tt0n Some cause happiness wherever they go; others whenever they go. CHAOS, PANIC, AND DISORDER my work here is done... Live without pretending, Love without depending, Listen without defending, Speak without offending |
#3
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Quote:
btw-JB welding a nut to the stud wont work, tried it and the nut came right off, plus it's only good up to 550 degrees
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craig 1989 C4 |
#4
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I've had good luck using a stud remover such as below, coupled with a small oxygen/MAPP gas setup from Lowes/Home Depot. Be sure to use the right tool, as you don't have much material left to error. Propane will not get the area hot enough as the Al case will dissipate the heat quickly. Work the flame on Al case stud protrusion where the stud enters. Gently apply torque to the stud until it frees up. Don't gorilla arm it....keep applying heat until it lets go. Baby steps.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
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Kyriakos E. Stylianos Baglama inspired 1982 SC Targa - (Currently Wallowing for GothingNC) |
#5
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^ What he said, anything else is just playing...
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David I hope to arrive to my death, late, in love, and a little drunk! Just because I don't care doesn't mean I don't understand... Homer Simpson "That's what's keeping me out of F1.... Too much mental maturity...." N0tt0n Some cause happiness wherever they go; others whenever they go. CHAOS, PANIC, AND DISORDER my work here is done... Live without pretending, Love without depending, Listen without defending, Speak without offending |
#6
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I respectfully suggest something else. When faced with a similar situation with a broken bolt for a motor mount on an aluminum Audi block, I MIG welded a nut onto the broken bolt. Put a socket on the welded-on nut and the broken turned right out.
My experience with multiple stud pullers/grabbers is that a welded on nut works much better.
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Jim 1986 Porsche 944 Turbo |
#7
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Quote:
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Chris Robel Current: 1987 Carrera Targa 3.4 993SS cams, Smokey Silver Semi-Daily Driver 2006 Cayman S, Guards Red, #11 part time track addict (sometimes #12 or #22) X-Terra, Blue Sold: 1970 911 T coupe, Bali Blue 1982 911 SC Targa, Guards Red 1974 914 2.0, Champagne Gold 1982 BMW 528e, White and rusty.. Deceased but not forgotten: 1968 911 sunroof coupe, Black 1972 VW Super Beetle, White |
#8
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Well he already has my stud removal collet. Got to try weld now crg
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John B 79 930 87 951 (sold/engine in wrong end) 86 911 Targa (sold/missed) |
#9
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good call on the weld gents, i'm thinking thats the best play..will find me a welder today
(JB's) the snap-on stud puller works like a charm, as long as the stud has threads, the collet needs threads in order to tighten on the stud
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craig 1989 C4 |
#10
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This stud extractor could work for you, "German Made" its a little pricy but worth it. $139 http://www.samstagsales.com/klann.htm#web_special
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“When I was born I was so ugly the doctor slapped my mother.” – Rodney Dangerfield Bill C "aka" Catdaddy - The Catfather - Current: 1980 911sc 2019 Ford Raptor 1987 Mercedes 560sl ------------ Sold: 2011 BMW M3 2000 996 C2-IMS 2 Row, RMS Update 1986.5 928s 1987 944 16v 1973 911t 1969 911t "My first car"!! 1969 Westfalia Bus 1973 Volks Superbeetle Last edited by catron1; 09-04-2014 at 07:58 AM. |
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