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Old 09-03-2014, 01:57 PM
crg crg is offline
 
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Default broken head stud removal?

i broke one of my dilavar head studs, too much heat on the stud itself i guess, anyone have a good way to get it out? have an inch or two exposed?
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Old 09-03-2014, 02:09 PM
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Top or bottom, engine in or out, for your signature 964 C4 or other? The dearth of information is regrettable! Most use heat at the case to remove, hard(er) to do if engine still in car.
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Old 09-03-2014, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trak Ratt View Post
Top or bottom, engine in or out, for your signature 964 C4 or other? The dearth of information is regrettable! Most use heat at the case to remove, hard(er) to do if engine still in car.
sorry- engine out, case split...top/bottom? probably dosent matter much at this point...heat is the easy part, getting a grip on the remaing 2" stud to turn it is the problem..
btw-JB welding a nut to the stud wont work, tried it and the nut came right off, plus it's only good up to 550 degrees
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Old 09-03-2014, 03:07 PM
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I've had good luck using a stud remover such as below, coupled with a small oxygen/MAPP gas setup from Lowes/Home Depot. Be sure to use the right tool, as you don't have much material left to error. Propane will not get the area hot enough as the Al case will dissipate the heat quickly. Work the flame on Al case stud protrusion where the stud enters. Gently apply torque to the stud until it frees up. Don't gorilla arm it....keep applying heat until it lets go. Baby steps.


http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
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Old 09-03-2014, 03:50 PM
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^ What he said, anything else is just playing...
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Old 09-03-2014, 05:15 PM
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I respectfully suggest something else. When faced with a similar situation with a broken bolt for a motor mount on an aluminum Audi block, I MIG welded a nut onto the broken bolt. Put a socket on the welded-on nut and the broken turned right out.

My experience with multiple stud pullers/grabbers is that a welded on nut works much better.
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Old 09-03-2014, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fairfax 944 View Post
I respectfully suggest something else. When faced with a similar situation with a broken bolt for a motor mount on an aluminum Audi block, I MIG welded a nut onto the broken bolt. Put a socket on the welded-on nut and the broken turned right out.

My experience with multiple stud pullers/grabbers is that a welded on nut works much better.
I agree with this too, and the MAPP gas idea as well. If you MIG a nut on the end it will really super heat the remaining stud quickly, melt the locktite and if your lucky you will be able to get a socket on it and start turning.
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Old 09-03-2014, 08:26 PM
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Well he already has my stud removal collet. Got to try weld now crg
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:35 AM
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good call on the weld gents, i'm thinking thats the best play..will find me a welder today

(JB's) the snap-on stud puller works like a charm, as long as the stud has threads, the collet needs threads in order to tighten on the stud
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:47 AM
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This stud extractor could work for you, "German Made" its a little pricy but worth it. $139

http://www.samstagsales.com/klann.htm#web_special
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Last edited by catron1; 09-04-2014 at 07:58 AM.
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