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Old 02-25-2023, 12:48 PM
Molly2001 Molly2001 is offline
 
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Default Need help please

Hello all,

I bought the Bilt racing 2 qt sump extension for my 986 and would love to do the installation myself. All I'm lacking is a garage with a lift (minor issue ).

Do you know of a place I could rent a lift for a day? It's supposed to be a ~3 hr job, but then there is cure time for the sealant before oil goes back in.

I have the quickjack and could do it that way, but I'd rather be able to have more room than that gives me.

Thanks for your thoughts, advice!
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Old 02-25-2023, 07:32 PM
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A lift is nice, but really isn't necessary. I have done multiple deep sump installations, without any lift.

You just need to get the car up on jackstands high enough that you can comfortably work underneath it. And, you need to make sure the car is level on the jackstands.

For work like this, I prefer to use wheel cribs -- they don't interfere with using jacks on the jack points, and the car will be level once it's up on the cribs. You can make your own out of lumber, or you can get some like these: https://www.raceramps.com/c/cribs/
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Old 02-26-2023, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillC View Post
A lift is nice, but really isn't necessary. I have done multiple deep sump installations, without any lift.

You just need to get the car up on jackstands high enough that you can comfortably work underneath it. And, you need to make sure the car is level on the jackstands.

For work like this, I prefer to use wheel cribs -- they don't interfere with using jacks on the jack points, and the car will be level once it's up on the cribs. You can make your own out of lumber, or you can get some like these: https://www.raceramps.com/c/cribs/
Bill, a little more information would be helpful. Based on your experience what size do you suggest, 10, 12 or 14”

Do you have a picture or two of them in use with your many project cars
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Old 02-26-2023, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick3000 View Post
Bill, a little more information would be helpful. Based on your experience what size do you suggest, 10, 12 or 14”

Do you have a picture or two of them in use with your many project cars
Assuming you're asking about the RaceRamps cribs ... basically, the more height, the better. So, I'd recommend going with the 12" or the 14" versions. Unfortunately, there's a big price jump for the 14" version, since they are really just pairs of stacking 7" cribs.

If you're going to make your own out of lumber, go as high as you feel comfortable jacking up your car. Just make sure they are strong. Plenty of pics in the interwebs.

Either way, you'll need a good jack (or a pair of jacks) to get the car up. The nice thing about the RR 14" version is you can lift one side up halfway, then the other side all the way up and then go back and raise the other side the rest of the way.

Don't have any pics, but they wouldn't be very exciting anyway -- just a car up on blocks.
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Old 02-26-2023, 04:47 PM
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The OP has a Quicjack which should give him 24” at the second lock point. That is higher than you can get with Jack stand or the fancy stuff Bill uses. Quick Jack should give plenty f lift for putting on the deep sump.
Sounds like he wants to do this standing up under the car.
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Old 02-26-2023, 05:09 PM
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Had to check that out, nice cinderblock I've made similar from plywood, 2x10s, whatever was on hand. Nice solution though.
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Old 02-27-2023, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N Fotouhi View Post
... or the fancy stuff Bill uses...
Large blocks of structural foam and a floor jack are fancy?
If so, then you'll love my trick for sliding under cars -- large sheets of cardboard cut from big shipping boxes! They maximize room under the car, insulate you from the cold floor and can be rolled up and thrown away when they get dirty or oily.

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Originally Posted by cmartin View Post
Had to check that out, nice cinderblock I've made similar from plywood, 2x10s, whatever was on hand. Nice solution though.
Oh yeah, there are plenty of options. However, you should never use cinderblocks, they are known to crack and crumble without warning.
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1999 SPB warp 2, maybe
1973 914 2.0 1/2 impulse if it ever gets out of space dock

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1973 914 1.7 1/4 impulse
2012 Cayman R warp 4
2006 Cayman S warp 3
1999 SPB warp 2, maybe
1966 911 warp 1.5
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Old 02-27-2023, 08:35 AM
Molly2001 Molly2001 is offline
 
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Thanks for the advice Bill and the additional comments.
I would prefer to stand, but honestly, as I go over the job in my head (and youtube), the only 'under the car bit' is removing and replacing the sump pan - everything else will be done at the bench.
Mostly, I am weary of the mess when the pan comes off given the residual oil that will be there while I'm on my back...but that can be dealt with.
Thanks again for the advice!
Niel V

Last edited by Molly2001; 02-27-2023 at 08:50 AM.
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Old 02-27-2023, 03:06 PM
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You'll learn to reach over your head while lying on your back to keep from being drenched in oil. You still have the risk of getting splashed if standing. Get a large, low-profile plastic tub/tote to catch the mess when you separate the sump plate.

As others have said, the Quick Jack will give you plenty of room if you're comfortable working on your back. An air or electric impact will reduce the amount of over-the-head reach time for removing the screws.

Oh, and for those who use concrete/cinder blocks as supports, they need to be oriented such that the casting holes are vertical, not horizontal.
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Old 02-27-2023, 03:48 PM
Eplebnista Eplebnista is offline
 
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"large sheets of cardboard cut from big shipping boxes"

Good, but big political candidate signs are infinitely more durable as they are corrugated plastic and readily available once an election is over. Not absorbent however.

I have a lift the OP is welcome to use for a day but I live up near BWI airport.
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