Brake Bleed order? - Dorkiphus.net

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Old 04-22-2019, 09:24 AM
eltren eltren is offline
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Default Brake Bleed order?

Should bleeding be done in a certain order? IE, driver rear, pass rear, pass front, for example.

Scenario:

Blown driver rear line, so I imagine that one might need to be done first.

Or...?

And I just gotta say those Eaton compression fittings are the bomb.
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Old 04-22-2019, 09:35 AM
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Usually the farthest 1st. But a blown like trumps that!
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Old 04-22-2019, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trak Ratt View Post
Usually the farthest 1st. But a blown like trumps that!
Correct. Bleed order for me is:

1. Anything that's been open or replaced
2. RR
3. LR
4. RF
5. LF
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Old 04-22-2019, 12:21 PM
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^ Yep. Inside nipple then outside, correct?
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Old 04-22-2019, 12:31 PM
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Cool thanks. Anybody got a Motive Power bleeder I can borrow?

In the process of YouTubing the Mityvac I came across the Motive,
And it looks great.

Uh, is the debris screen on the reservoir removeable?
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Last edited by eltren; 04-22-2019 at 12:54 PM. Reason: Add
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Old 04-22-2019, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vranko View Post
^ Yep. Inside nipple then outside, correct?
Outside is further from the reservoir!
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Old 04-22-2019, 01:09 PM
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I like using the Motive "dry". That way you don't have to clean it. Simply monitor fluid in the reservoir, and add periodically. Use the Motive to provide air pressure to move the fluid through the system.

Personally, while I agree that "farthest to closest" is technically the best, since most of our cars can be easily jacked to get both wheels in the air on one side, I typically do the side opposite the brake reservoir first, RR then FR. Then I jack up the other side and do RR then FR. This way you only have to jack the car up twice, versus 4 times. So with reservoir on Left Side, it would be RR, RF, LR, LF. Also, I concur doing inside bleeder first on 2-nipple calipers.
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Old 04-22-2019, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopper Dropper View Post
Outside is further from the reservoir!
I could be wrong, by my theory is that initial bubbles are already in the caliper.
Then, any air coming from the line will normally escape from the inside nipple first. Then bleed the outside nipple to evacuate any bubbles trapped on that side.

But, more importantly, you're also pushing out old "cooked" fluid in the caliper to replace with "somewhat fresher" fluid further up the lines. I like to bleed before each event, to get fresher fluid in the calipers, where the heat happens, for the weekend. After every 2nd or 3rd or so event, I figure the system has been entirely bled. I've not stepped up to SRF yet, which requires less bleeding. But lots of people seem to be happy, despite the added cost.
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Old 04-22-2019, 04:59 PM
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Get a vacuum tank based bleeder. Not the little hand pump thing The type with a suction tank. They are better than pressure fed bleeders . Vacuum makes the bubbles bigger and more easily separated from the fluid and removed. Pressure makes the smaller denser and harder to remove. There are devices that hook to the reservoir that work like an office water cooler and refills as you draw down the fluid. No blowouts no forgetting to pinch shut the little overflow hose no wasted fluid no stopping and starting or blowing air into the MC. No hoses or tanks to clean.
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Old 04-22-2019, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eltren View Post
Cool thanks. Anybody got a Motive Power bleeder I can borrow?
if you go that route double check each host and connection. These things dry rot. After cleanup on aisle 6 I got a suction bleeder that uses shop air. Pretty bonehead proof. So far.
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