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#1
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Brake Bleed order?
Should bleeding be done in a certain order? IE, driver rear, pass rear, pass front, for example.
Scenario: Blown driver rear line, so I imagine that one might need to be done first. Or...? And I just gotta say those Eaton compression fittings are the bomb.
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#2
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Usually the farthest 1st. But a blown like trumps that!
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David I hope to arrive to my death, late, in love, and a little drunk! Just because I don't care doesn't mean I don't understand... Homer Simpson "That's what's keeping me out of F1.... Too much mental maturity...." N0tt0n Some cause happiness wherever they go; others whenever they go. CHAOS, PANIC, AND DISORDER my work here is done... Live without pretending, Love without depending, Listen without defending, Speak without offending |
#3
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Correct. Bleed order for me is:
1. Anything that's been open or replaced 2. RR 3. LR 4. RF 5. LF
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Chris M 1985 911 Carrera with a couple cosmetic only mods 2006 E90 330i 1999 E46 328i |
#4
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^ Yep. Inside nipple then outside, correct?
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John V 2024 BMW G87 ///M2 (Next 444) 2021 Toyota Supra GR (The Bupra, Other 444) 2016 BMW M235 2015 Porsche Cayenne Diesel 2007 Cayman S, #444 2013 Golf R 2012 BWM x5 2017 Mazda MX-5 Club 3 time DE Parade Lap Champion #BestInstructorEver - Unknown |
#5
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Cool thanks. Anybody got a Motive Power bleeder I can borrow?
In the process of YouTubing the Mityvac I came across the Motive, And it looks great. Uh, is the debris screen on the reservoir removeable?
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'99 Box RIP '06 Jeep Rubicon Unltd RIP '96 Ferd Xploder RIP '78 Guzzi Le Mans (It's alive, it's alive!) '09 Guzzi Griso (AKA Black Betty) '11 987 Spyder (Gone but not forgotten) '13 FJ TT I RIP '13 FJ TT II '22 982 Spyder, missed the Felicity Ace by 'that' much! And they all have something wrong with them. "Stay hungry, stay foolish." Last edited by eltren; 04-22-2019 at 12:54 PM. Reason: Add |
#6
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Outside is further from the reservoir!
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Safety Chair, PCA Potomac Region Retired DE Chair, PCA Potomac Region. Retired Co-Chief Instructor PCA Potomac 2008-2012 1971 914/6 (Factory) 3.2 Track car 1988 911 Targa 1986 944 |
#7
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I like using the Motive "dry". That way you don't have to clean it. Simply monitor fluid in the reservoir, and add periodically. Use the Motive to provide air pressure to move the fluid through the system.
Personally, while I agree that "farthest to closest" is technically the best, since most of our cars can be easily jacked to get both wheels in the air on one side, I typically do the side opposite the brake reservoir first, RR then FR. Then I jack up the other side and do RR then FR. This way you only have to jack the car up twice, versus 4 times. So with reservoir on Left Side, it would be RR, RF, LR, LF. Also, I concur doing inside bleeder first on 2-nipple calipers.
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- Tony P. Currently - 1984 944 SP2 racer - 1977 911 KM Special vintage racer - 2012 Cayman R (also the wife's) - 2000 Boxster S (now mine) - 1995 993 (garage queen) - 2007 Cayman S (wife's track beast) - 2017 F350 (tow monster) - 2018 Jeep Wrangler Gone but not forgotten - 1989 944S2 - 1979 RX7 - 1986 944 - 1991 944S2 (in car heaven...) - 2001 Chevy Suburban 2500 (FIL's beast now) |
#8
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I could be wrong, by my theory is that initial bubbles are already in the caliper.
Then, any air coming from the line will normally escape from the inside nipple first. Then bleed the outside nipple to evacuate any bubbles trapped on that side. But, more importantly, you're also pushing out old "cooked" fluid in the caliper to replace with "somewhat fresher" fluid further up the lines. I like to bleed before each event, to get fresher fluid in the calipers, where the heat happens, for the weekend. After every 2nd or 3rd or so event, I figure the system has been entirely bled. I've not stepped up to SRF yet, which requires less bleeding. But lots of people seem to be happy, despite the added cost.
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- Tony P. Currently - 1984 944 SP2 racer - 1977 911 KM Special vintage racer - 2012 Cayman R (also the wife's) - 2000 Boxster S (now mine) - 1995 993 (garage queen) - 2007 Cayman S (wife's track beast) - 2017 F350 (tow monster) - 2018 Jeep Wrangler Gone but not forgotten - 1989 944S2 - 1979 RX7 - 1986 944 - 1991 944S2 (in car heaven...) - 2001 Chevy Suburban 2500 (FIL's beast now) |
#9
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Get a vacuum tank based bleeder. Not the little hand pump thing The type with a suction tank. They are better than pressure fed bleeders . Vacuum makes the bubbles bigger and more easily separated from the fluid and removed. Pressure makes the smaller denser and harder to remove. There are devices that hook to the reservoir that work like an office water cooler and refills as you draw down the fluid. No blowouts no forgetting to pinch shut the little overflow hose no wasted fluid no stopping and starting or blowing air into the MC. No hoses or tanks to clean.
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#10
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if you go that route double check each host and connection. These things dry rot. After cleanup on aisle 6 I got a suction bleeder that uses shop air. Pretty bonehead proof. So far.
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78 SC, the 'Red Car' |
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