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  #11  
Old 04-22-2019, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vranko View Post
Wait until I drive near you with my 300mm studs. Just like in speed racer.

Or I'll just use these hub caps.

Attachment 60252

wow

wonder if i can find center caps for o.z. wheels like that?
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  #12  
Old 04-22-2019, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toby View Post
I added wheel studs to my first Boxster, but don't think it's worth the hassle to install / loctite / change out 20 studs every other years (plus $$$ for the studs) vs. sticking with stock bolt and locating pins.

We did 20-30 days a year (!) back then and it was a 2-driver car, and still was barely worth it and as much labor of love. (I thought they were worth 2/10ths a lap!)

Just my opinion bull noses are unsightly, especially if you need extra length for spacers (so they stick out a lot when you are not running them.)


i have been dealing with bolts for a long time, and alignment pins

i don't really care how it looks

there is difficulty either way, but studs reduce the wear on the hub, just like caliper studs do on the uprights

three times i have had issues with wheel bolts, and had to find replacements, and nearly messed up the hub

i know, i know, i need to be more careful

lol
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  #13  
Old 04-22-2019, 02:53 PM
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Just food for thought...

Porsche wheel hub flanges are made from hi-grade steel. Even when over tightened, repeatedly, its usually the fastener that fails, not the hub flange(with cross threading as an exception).

Aluminum uprights with steel fastener fails the other way around, unless the aluminum uprights have steel time-serts installed.

I often see one particularly thing about using wheel studs that I personally think is not great- That is resting the weight of the wheel/tire entirely on the studs and then slide it forcefully to the hub causing the hard(and somewhat sharp) steel threads of the studs chafing off aluminum material from the lug bore, which then sometimes the aluminum shavings end up getting caught in the threads. So to prevent this from happening one would have to support all (or most) of the weight of wheel/tire and only using the studs as a "guide". An actually wheel guide pin is smooth(thread-less) so the user can rest 40-50 pounds on it and slide the wheel through with minimal to no chafing.

I have used both wheel studs and wheel bolts on my own cars and customers cars. Currently my track car has wheel studs. To me, me only, using wheel studs is a self-perceived convenience since I am still holding the entire weight to prevent chafing of my nice wheels. And to be frank, personally, when I am holding a 50 lb wheel/tire while I am on my knees in the paddock, I find it to be slightly easier to "throw" the wheel on the hub without any studs nor guide pin(s) that get in the way. Again, that's just me.


So I am neither for it for against it, I feel neutral about it. I guess what I'm trying to convey is there's no free lunch...
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