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  #1  
Old 02-28-2003, 10:32 AM
Arlington77Targa Arlington77Targa is offline
 
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Default Front Oil Cooler Questions

Looking for opinions on questions I should ask and what I should pay regarding the front cooler setup AutoXer in NJ is selling (see emails below). I've got a 77 with no external cooler. AutoXer seems to be selling a 84-86 cooler without fan and wants $625 complete with hardware (all hardware?) and thermostat.

Also, is this a one day kind of job, or 15 hours under the car?

(still thinking of selling the car to go to school, but it'd be nice to keep it!)

-David



In a message dated 2/27/2003 3:55:37 PM Eastern Standard Time, david@ryan.vfirm.com writes:


sorry for the delay. Could you provide more details (type of cooler, condition) and pricing.

thanks,

David
It is in good condition (lines and the cooler ) and the cooler is the later style without the fan $325 for the lines and $300 for the cooler. Thank-you Carmen

It has everything from front to back and if you bought both I would give you the hardware you need to mount it on your car. Thank-you Carmen
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Old 02-28-2003, 11:38 AM
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Charlie Stylianos Charlie Stylianos is offline
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David,

New hard lines will run you about $600, thermostat $300 and a new cooler (w/o hardware) about $350.

If your 77 does not have the external cooler/thermostat assy., there is some oil plumbing you'll need to do to retrofit the external assy. Take a look at the SC's external oil routing diagrams. There is an oil line from the left side of the engine that needs to be routed to the external thermostat and there is another oil line (I think from the oil tank) to the thermostat. Depending if you have SSI/Early HE, or the stock setup, these lines differ and are about $150 for the pair.

If the oil cooler he is selling is complete w/hardware (stone gurad(s), mounting brackets, mini flex lines from hard lines to cooler) then this is a pretty good deal. Check Pelican's site for complete list of mounting hardware. Make sure the hard lines are not crimped as MANY are due to negligent tire shops. The thermostat does not mount to the body, it sits in the wheel well. The housing is the most expensive, the elements can be replaced inexpensively if faulty. The hard lines have mounting brackets that screw under the right side rockers (see if he has those also). The hard lines and thermostat are pretty straight forward, the oil cooler assy is a little more involved.

15 hour job, maybe. A good weekend job sounds more like it.

Hope this helps
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Old 03-26-2003, 06:11 PM
Chuck Moreland Chuck Moreland is offline
 
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Here is a link to installation guidlines for the hard oil lines.
http://www.elephantracing.com/oilhan...stallation.htm

That's half the job.

You might also be interested in the Elephant Racing finned oil lines. They have fins on the surface to aid heat dissipation, plus a purge valve that lets you remove oil from the cooler and lines when you do an oil change.












More here:
http://www.elephantracing.com/oilhan...stallation.htm

I've also got all the other lines are bits you need to complete the installation.
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Old 03-26-2003, 08:36 PM
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Chuck, fancy seeing you here.....welcome to the board.

BTW: I installed the Elephant lines last year when I found my stock lines crimped in serveral places. The install was straight forward and they fit exactly as OEM, perfect. With the finned lines (and more open oil flow) I found the oil heated up slower (after 190 degrees), and when it did get too hot, it cooled down faster. I took some pyrometer readings at VIR last year trying to pinpoint my ongoing overheating problem and found a drastic difference between thermostat inlet and outlets. I can't remember the exact numbers (probably in an old Rennlist post prior to finding Pelican), but impressive w/ just a loop cooler.
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Old 03-27-2003, 12:10 PM
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David--

If you're going to do the upgrade work, have you given some thought to going to the Carrera cooler with the fan?
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Old 03-28-2003, 09:14 PM
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IMO buying a used cooler is never a good idea from someone you don’t know! They are practically impossible to completely clean & new ones ain’t much more expensive. Thanks to Tony K. we now have the ability to un-crush almost any oil cooler pipe! Maybe we can have a demo at one of the upcoming techs.
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Old 04-01-2003, 10:29 PM
RoninLB RoninLB is offline
 
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I'm w/David on a used oil cooler.. if it came from a blown up engine they never get cleaned out.. I use a front fender cooler that supposed to be 2 1/2 X as efficent as the routine P cooler.. and Bruce A also quoted the numbers.........Ron
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