[Vicegrip]

I have been beating the crap out of the rusto stuff for 10 years now. Some chips and one lift up where the concrete was too smooth. I acid etched the floor the flood rinsed then vacuumed with a wet vac then flood rinsed while scrubbing with a stiff broom then wet vac. I wants to get the PH back to normal and to remove all loose dust particles.

Unlike some other stuff the rusto stuff can be recoated on itself. Getting a bit ratty? Take a day degrease and make it like new.

That said I have been beating the crap out of some top of the line pro stuff at HBL and it is the real deal.

[HoodPin]

Originally Posted by Vicegrip

.....That said I have been beating the crap out of some top of the line pro stuff at HBL and it is the real deal.

What's the cost/SF of the pro stuff?

[Eplebnista]

I am wrestling with the same issues. There are hundreds of threads on this topic in the "Flooring" forum at www.garagejournal.com. Epoxy is a popular choice but the consensus is that serious floor preparation is essential. Further, the epoxy needs to be a high solids content higher quality product than what you can buy in the big box stores, which are said to be prone to failure. Rust Bullet coating is being used by a lot of folks as it needs comparatively little floor prep but there is no long term user history as this has been in vogue for a little over a year.

Porcelain tile is comparable in cost if you get a real good price on the tile, but DIY install is pretty labor intensive. The result, if done properly, is as close to a maintenance free floor as you can get. Others use commercial grade (VCT) vinyl tile, which is easier to put down and requires less prep, but needs stripping and waxing to keep it in good shape. Unfortunately, a lot of common automotive chemicals will strip the wax right off VCT, which makes it sort of a no go for me.

I think I am either going to go with Rust Bullet and take my chances or porcelain tile if I can get help with putting it down.

I also have three gallons of Legacy Industrial acrylic sealant that I am thinking I am not going to use. I've kind of upgraded my expectations about appearance of the floor since I bought the sealant.

[JmuRiz]

Originally Posted by Eplebnista

...I also have three gallons of Legacy Industrial acrylic sealant that I am thinking I am not going to use. I've kind of upgraded my expectations about appearance of the floor since I bought the sealant.

Wish i was paying attention a year ago when you posted this. I'm thinking sealer would be best for me...as there will be a lot of hot-tire turning on my floor (afraid of tire pickup) and I like the look of a concrete floor.

[cmartin]

I used the 100% solids epoxy from [link removed]

Installation was a bit tedious but thats epoxy. Temp and time need to be factored into batch life and time for the next coat. As typical it was more $$ than I wanted but so far its ok. Its only been installed since ~Nov so no long term experience.

This shot is typical, I work in the shop more than I clean up so there is always a mess. The floor cleans up well and has enough texture to not be slippery when wet. The first time I dropped something heavy I didnt want to look, so far so good.

[onboost]

Originally Posted by cmartin

I used the 100% solids epoxy from [link removed]

Installation was a bit tedious but thats epoxy. Temp and time need to be factored into batch life and time for the next coat. As typical it was more $$ than I wanted but so far its ok.

Looks good and thanks for the link.. obviously I'm in for a do-over.
And looking forward to something that will last. Mine didn't even get chemicals, heavy drops, or hot tires.. just raised with the cold weather.

[BlackTalon]

Originally Posted by onboost

And looking forward to something that will last. Mine didn't even get chemicals, heavy drops, or hot tires.. just raised with the cold weather.

Where did the failure occur? Did the top coat separate from the base coat? Did the base coat separate from the primer? Did the primer separate from the slab surface? Did a thin layer of cement paste separate from the underlying slab?

Best to figure out why the failure likely occurred in order to increase the chances of success the second time around.

[Vicegrip]

take care in picking the tile and only use epoxy modified grout. I have 70 service bays with tile that is slick and 40 more that can't stay clean. Ether slippery or the dirt grabs. Might be easy to clean the tile but the grout is another issue. The grout lines make sweeping a bear and they grab dirt and oil

[Eric S]

I originally used inferior "epoxy" paint (no mixing should have been a clue), and it lifted the first time I parked on it. The cost, time and mess associated with diamond grinding it off was prohibitive. I went with RaceDeck and really like it. Easy to install, looks good, chemical resistant, damaged tiles easy to replace with spares, easier on knees than concrete, and thermal insulating. Double garage and small work area was about $1,100.

[Trak Ratt]

I etched, washed, etched and air dried for a week. Used high quality epoxy and my floor sucks!!! Kurt and friends knocked a big chip out of it within a month of completion and it been down hill ever since. I really, really really wished I'd just sealed it and moved on. Biggest problem I've had is chipping. Only one section by my lift actually "lifted" the rest is just chips

Bottom line; if you actually intend to work in the space, aren't as OCD as Jazz, meticulous as Kurt or have a score of minions just seal it and get on with your life.