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  #1  
Old 12-18-2014, 09:07 PM
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Still having the lift professionally installed might not be a bad idea. With the shames going around the legal system right now a little CYA can go a long way.
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  #2  
Old 12-18-2014, 09:26 PM
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Use by non trained users should not be considered. Period. ALI has instruction books on lift use and lift points for cars. Over 99% of auto lift failures are User error. Insurance or not lifting cars with no or little experience or training is a when not if thing IMO.

I maintain and inspect lifts and have Hunter, Challenger, Rotary, and a couple of odd ducks. Based on the 150 lifts I work on at work I would not recommend Challenger lifts. The ones I have are more problematic than the rest by a a good margin. In fact one issue is very troublesome. They use a less robust relay that tends to arc weld shut and the lift fails in the on/up condition. Not one of the other brands or models has ever done this but it is a 3 or 4 a year thing for the Challengers. Over all automotive lifts are durable low failure rate devices. Failure and injury is almost always from User error. X type lifts have a high user failure rate. They are more prone to tipping from uneven loading and load shifting.

I find 4 post lifts to be a royal pain for most things other than storage or wheel line up work. Always reaching over or ducking under something.


Home lift is a bend-pac. No issues with it but it loafs compared to dealer use levels.
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Last edited by Vicegrip; 12-18-2014 at 09:42 PM.
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Old 12-18-2014, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
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Heard nothing but good things about the Challenger lifts.
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Originally Posted by Vicegrip View Post
I maintain and inspect lifts and have Hunter, Challenger, Rotary, and a couple of odd ducks. Based on the 150 lifts I work on at work I would not recommend Challenger lifts. The ones I have are more problematic than the rest by a a good margin. In fact one issue is very troublesome. They use a less robust relay that tends to arc weld shut and the lift fails in the on/up condition. Not one of the other brands or models has ever done this but it is a 3 or 4 a year thing for the Challengers. Over all automotive lifts are durable low failure rate devices. Failure and injury is almost always from User error. X type lifts have a high user failure rate. They are more prone to tipping from uneven loading and load shifting.
I'd avoid Challenger lifts. I hear they have a lot of issues.



It is nice having someone on Dorkiphus who works with way more of this stuff daily then most of us will ever touch in a lifetime (and no, that is NOT about Dr. K -- it's about VG)
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:04 PM
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+1 on requiring training. I have plenty of buddies that use my lift, but until they listen to my spiel and demonstrate they get it a few times, I supervise the lifting. I had one PhD try to locate the the lift pads on the frame rails instead of the lift points. I showed him how much the car teetered with the arms so close. Then made him lift it the right way. Having the arms spread wide was much more stable. Every time, I try to pull the car off the lift before I raise it over a few inches. Better to have the car fall off at 4" than 6'.
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Old 12-18-2014, 11:20 PM
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Should maybe have a "how-to" thread on lefts?? Or, make everyone come out to a PCA Tech and demonstrate they get it?

I got careless one night! Came out the next day and my lift was "stuttering" Seems I forgot to lower it to the first stop after raising it all the way up! So weight of car was resting on hydraulics instead of a hard stop

I try really hard not to do that anymore...
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  #6  
Old 12-19-2014, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Trak Ratt View Post
Should maybe have a "how-to" thread on lefts?? Or, make everyone come out to a PCA Tech and demonstrate they get it?

Both of these are great ideas! I've only personally used a lift maybe a dozen times (I try and pass off lift-using duties to someone more capable whenever possible!) and each time it has been with a different brand of lift, each with its own operational nuances.

I'd love it if someone gave an official "how-to" at a tech session one day.

As far as I can tell, it's not the general procedure which people have issue with -- it's all those little "gotchas" and best practices which wind up spelling doom for uninitiated.

Would make a great article for dV, too (hint hint).
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Old 12-19-2014, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackTalon View Post
I'd avoid Challenger lifts. I hear they have a lot of issues.



It is nice having someone on Dorkiphus who works with way more of this stuff daily then most of us will ever touch in a lifetime (and no, that is NOT about Dr. K -- it's about VG)
Sorry brother, did not intend to step on toes. I only have one model of their lift but have 65 of them. I spend more time working on them than the rest combined and then some. Could be that the other versions are top notch as I dont have direct exp. What I hear from the local lift co is as a brand they are not the top pick so to speak.

The 70 Rotary in ground and above ground lifts I mess with have been good machines with few issues and no common ones.

I might not install Bend-pac in a high cap auto shop ether. My exp and take from others in the busness is they are great home lifts with good reach and low pad hights. I love mine even if it is a much dismissed floor plate type. Mohawk lifts are just simply overbuilt in many ways and under built in others. Overbuilt is not always a good thing. Bulky machine with larger than might be needed parts gets in the way a bit more than right sized might. All certified lifts can lift 3X rating without perm deformation. The pump and plumbing will not let it do this so beefy posts and arms does little.
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Last edited by Vicegrip; 12-19-2014 at 09:55 AM.
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  #8  
Old 12-19-2014, 05:51 PM
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Let me make a pitch for a Bend Pak P6. It is often lumped with scissor lifts because it is similar in function. However, the P6 is two independent pads that allow the middle of the car to remain exposed. It's all you need for a rear-engined car, and it really only hinders access to the rocker area of a car. Like a scissor lift, it also does not lift very high.

It's not as useful as a two- or four-post lift; but when you consider that: (1) you want a simple, safer lift that can be used by unsupervised half-wits, and (2) you really only need to facilitate work typically done during a race weekend and NOT major work, then maybe something like the P6 makes sense.

And when not in use, the garage spot is unencumbered.

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  #9  
Old 12-19-2014, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Potomac-Greg View Post
Let me make a pitch for a Bend Pak P6. It is often lumped with scissor lifts because it is similar in function. However, the P6 is two independent pads that allow the middle of the car to remain exposed. It's all you need for a rear-engined car, and it really only hinders access to the rocker area of a car. Like a scissor lift, it also does not lift very high.

It's not as useful as a two- or four-post lift; but when you consider that: (1) you want a simple, safer lift that can be used by unsupervised half-wits, and (2) you really only need to facilitate work typically done during a race weekend and NOT major work, then maybe something like the P6 makes sense.

And when not in use, the garage spot is unencumbered.




I have a gregsmith slp-7k full hight scissor lift. It can be embedded into a shallow pit in the concrete slab or sit on top. The lift is only 4.5 inches tall when lowered. I currently have the lift sitting on top of the slab. Plans are to cut into the slab and level the lift to the garage floor this coming fall.

I have had the lift for 3 years now and have had my full size Toyota Sienna Mini van, 996, and corolla on the lift and it was solid as a rock. Although this is a full height lift, i am only able to get the 996 52 inches hight from bottom of the oil pan to the concrete due to low my low garage ceiling.

Here is link http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/At...e-Scissor-Lift


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  #10  
Old 12-19-2014, 08:47 AM
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My plan for the install is to have a professional do it all the way.

Yes we will have insurance to cover the lift. I also plan on having controlled access to the lift with a lock on the power (with remote control) along with a waiver and potentially damage deposit as well.
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