[chillindrdude]

Hi Y'all's

I've been lurking but not much posting. I sold the 944 3 weeks ago and hopefully will be picking up an E36 M3

It's stock, so I was gonna do the following track prep upgrades...and figured I'd run it by you guys for anything missing/excessive.

-A/C compressor delete
-clutch fan delete/electric fan conversion
-full aluminum radiator
-Stewarts water pump / thermostat and housing
-OPN wiring and baffled pan
-CAI and cat delete (if O2 simulators are a viable solution)
-stock front and back seats removal / race seats installation
-harness bar and 5-pt harnesses
-SS brake lines, New slotted iron rotors, PF race pads
-front right strut is blown, considering just replacement versus track oriented coilovers

That should do it...

[smdubovsky]

- wire (or weld) the oil pump nut!! (edit: I see you mentioned it as the OPN.)
- Replace lower end bearings (rods esp.)
Both can be done when you have the oil pan out for the baffle addition.
- Skip the slotted rotors. Use OEM (and cheap ones at that.)
- weld the rear subframe mount reinforcements before they crack (if they haven't already.)
- CAI does very little (I'd skip it.) Exhaust is far higher hp:dollar ratio.

Std BMW type stuff

[Trak Ratt]

Some interesting additional stuff in Stephen's race car prep thread. Don't rush to strip your car. If AC works keep it, 6 point harnesses is better for your lower self if things go really bad. Need front seat for harnesses but keep the rears till ready for a cage. Updated shocks though track coil overs are nice. Extra wheels and track tyres. I'd leave the cat for now unless you have a trailer.

Best to think long term, try not and do something you can't back away from till fully committed. What's fully committed?? 20/30 track days a year, dedicated tow vehicle and trailer.

Course if you do jump in w/both feet there are plenty here that will help you get out of track droving your stripped M3... for pennies on the $$$

[Dr K]

If you're going to strip the car, I strongly suggest to buy some else's project. You'll save a lot of money and time. Otherwise follow TR's and SMD's suggestions above.

[roundel]

AC delete seems like a bad idea. Summer events get hot and it is nice to be able to cool off between runs or on the way to the hotel. Also, rain sessions can get foggy so AC is great for defogging the windshield.

I tracked an E36 M3 for over 300 days. I had Konis and front camber plates. Without the plates, I was only using the very outter edge of the tires while cornering. I might advise against SS brake lines too. They ironically have only a couple year life and the OEM ones last longer. I would just put new OEM is you want to do something.

Finally, can you put your name in your signature?

[chillindrdude]

Originally Posted by roundel

Finally, can you put your name in your signature?

Done. My name is Neil. I met you at the OGRacing paddock store when BMWCCA made me get additional bar padding.

The A/C delete is on the list because the compressor is starting to make noise and is probably on the way out, per the PPI, but still blows cold.

I don't wanna fully over commit, I agree with many of the points. But what I really want is bulletproofing the cooling and safety. The half cage is ideal, but I was considering just a harness bar, although, this clearly less safe. But I dont have to rip up carpeting. And I was planning on seeing if I can sell the stock Vader dove seats.

I've been promoted to the intermediate run group. So I like to get to the next level. Just looking to keep costs reasonable but with a focus on reliability and safety.

[Trak Ratt]

Originally Posted by chillindrdude

...
I've been promoted to the intermediate run group. So I like to get to the next level. Just looking to keep costs reasonable but with a focus on reliability and safety.

Next level is via lots of seat time. All the rest is DYI on new toy. Coupes have pretty good rollover so harness seats and bar make sense as does a half cage.

[chillindrdude]

I think I will get the half cage for rollover protection. Maybe do a half assed strip leaving the door panels and front half carpeting. I still want this to be a street legal car.

[RiskAverse]

"I might advise against SS brake lines too. They ironically have only a couple year life and the OEM ones last longer. I would just put new OEM is you want to do something."


I'm buying a car with SS brake lines. I am not sure of the age, but the mileage is less than 20k from what I can tell. What will let me know they need to be replaced?

Thanks for the advice, Ken

[Trak Ratt]

Originally Posted by RiskAverse

I might advise against SS brake lines too. They ironically have only a couple year life and the OEM ones last longer. I would just put new OEM is you want to do something,....... Ken

Another point for Orem. Though the newer dot ones are much better. When I did our early 911 the stock ones were 1/2 again as expensive. It's been 10 plus years and no issues but the exception