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  #11  
Old 07-21-2016, 07:51 PM
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Stem walls are up. Next would be the slabs but the concrete guys are very concerned that cracks are likely given the weather. The slabs are the finished floor, so it's important to get right. We may end up setting the gravel and vertical insulation and then pouring after the second floor deck is finished.

We made a field change to drop the garage floor based on site contours. I kicked and screamed but it looks like I'll just have to accept another 12" of ceiling height, now 11'. Should be able to stand under a car in there.
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Old 07-22-2016, 07:34 AM
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Looks great! What are the dimensions? Plans for interior temp comfort? Dedicating a spot for the air compressor to control the noise? Don't skimp on outlets; plan your 220V tool needs and locate outlets for max flexibility.
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Old 07-22-2016, 07:43 AM
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That looks like a nice size garage/shop.

11 feet is about the min for a lift from what I see. With 11 you can run most lifts to full height with a car and not dent the ceiling. I have a bit under 11 feet and sedans are no problem but most PU trucks have to stop a bit under the full 6 foot stroke of the lift. Just remember to fold down any fixed antennas.

Lifts without a top bar are better in this case as there is no lost space to the cross bar overhead.
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Old 07-22-2016, 09:46 AM
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Actually this is an entire house, with a 3.5 car garage/shop which is basically the RH side of the photos. Shop area is 24 feet deep by 20 wide. Mucho electrical in the plan, which took some getting used to as my former work area was a barn in which I could just add outlets as desired.

Compressor was to go in the utility room next to the garage but it'll be full, so I'll have to build an enclosure.

Floor is 5", with radiant plumbing, like the rest of the first floor. Thermally isolated from the house slab, which will store passive solar with aux backup. Garage is on the N side and I think I'll try a solar shed to warm it up. Radiant floor is usually considered slow to recover and not great for a shop with opening doors, but the HVAC contractor uses it in his shop with great success. 6" of dense cellulose and insulated doors will help. May or may not put a mini split handler in there, but it's an option coming off the VRV system.

It's been interesting having an engineer involved. The garage floor calls for 12" slab thickness under the lift. In case I decide to go into armored vehicle or heavy truck repair. Or something. The lift will need a ceiling stop switch, I think MrBock got the last 993 roof ever made...
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Old 07-22-2016, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edevinney View Post
Actually this is an entire house, with a 3.5 car garage/shop which is basically the RH side of the photos. Shop area is 24 feet deep by 20 wide. Mucho electrical in the plan, which took some getting used to as my former work area was a barn in which I could just add outlets as desired.

Compressor was to go in the utility room next to the garage but it'll be full, so I'll have to build an enclosure.

Floor is 5", with radiant plumbing, like the rest of the first floor. Thermally isolated from the house slab, which will store passive solar with aux backup. Garage is on the N side and I think I'll try a solar shed to warm it up. Radiant floor is usually considered slow to recover and not great for a shop with opening doors, but the HVAC contractor uses it in his shop with great success. 6" of dense cellulose and insulated doors will help. May or may not put a mini split handler in there, but it's an option coming off the VRV system.

It's been interesting having an engineer involved. The garage floor calls for 12" slab thickness under the lift. In case I decide to go into armored vehicle or heavy truck repair. Or something. The lift will need a ceiling stop switch, I think MrBock got the last 993 roof ever made...
Good stuff! Sounds well thought out. Can the garage floor be less than 12", with 12" or more deep footings under the lift's mounting points?
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  #16  
Old 07-22-2016, 11:38 AM
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12" is quite a floor, dump truck service center! Sounds like a really nice shop, lots of thing to think about and it sound like you've covered your bases. I didnt realize my contractor was going to install drywall, that made all the electrical and lighting design question move from down the road to need to know this week. Oh well. Worst case you move stuff and patch drywall. I'm getting good/better at that.

Before you know it you'll be organizing tools and wondering how you lived without it. Enjoy the process.
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Old 07-22-2016, 02:12 PM
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Fortunately the floor is only 12" under the lift points. There's already a metric scheissload of concrete going into this place!

I'm sure we've missed important details, but we've been planning for a while. Started 2007, broke ground 2016. But good things are worth waiting for.
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Old 07-22-2016, 02:17 PM
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Could also do a cathedral ceiling like we did. County limited us to about 8' wall height. Commercial garage door that follows roof line = plenty of room With garage door open I just need to be aware of possible interference.... like a open engine lid on a 964 equipped with a Carrera tail Plenty of room with door down.
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  #19  
Old 07-22-2016, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edevinney View Post
Actually this is an entire house, with a 3.5 car garage/shop which is basically the RH side of the photos. Shop area is 24 feet deep by 20 wide. Mucho electrical in the plan, which took some getting used to as my former work area was a barn in which I could just add outlets as desired.

Compressor was to go in the utility room next to the garage but it'll be full, so I'll have to build an enclosure.

Floor is 5", with radiant plumbing, like the rest of the first floor. Thermally isolated from the house slab, which will store passive solar with aux backup. Garage is on the N side and I think I'll try a solar shed to warm it up. Radiant floor is usually considered slow to recover and not great for a shop with opening doors, but the HVAC contractor uses it in his shop with great success. 6" of dense cellulose and insulated doors will help. May or may not put a mini split handler in there, but it's an option coming off the VRV system.

It's been interesting having an engineer involved. The garage floor calls for 12" slab thickness under the lift. In case I decide to go into armored vehicle or heavy truck repair. Or something. The lift will need a ceiling stop switch, I think MrBock got the last 993 roof ever made...
I figured the garage was the portion on the right. 12 inch slab pads under the posts is a bit over the top but not a hard or expensive thing to do. Better measure of increased safety than the thickness is the PSI. It is anchor pull out not slab compression you need to think about.
Stop switch is easy to make if your lift does not come with one. Momentary On switch held On by the weight of a 1/2 X 10' electrical conduit that has pipe insulation on it. Make two elongated "U" shaped hangers just a bit wider than the conduit diameter. Switch gets mounted in the bottom of one "U". Mount hangers on ceiling, drop pipe in hangers and line up the pipe foam so the pipe can't slip from the hanger and zip tie snug. Wire control power through the switch. Car goes high enough to hit the conduit and conduit lifts off the switch, the control power to the pump motor relay breaks and no MrBock event*.

Compressors can live outside just fine if you take a couple of precautions. Only the compressor itself goes outside. Install the coalescing auto drain oil/water filter inside to protect them from freezing. Plumb the piping from the compressor to the filter downhill and the plumbing from the filter to the rest of the shop uphill. You want the water that condenses in the piping to drain to the filter. Plumb an auto blow down valve so the valve is 6 inches above the drain port. This way no water sits in the valve. Use a section flex air line between the tank and blow down valve and you are freeze proof.
I have to stop and cup an ear to tell if my compressor is running. Winter air is dry and dense too. Bliss I tell you

*unless you get a welded contact event on the motor contractor. Then you hit the service disconnect that is right next to the power pack. (there is one right next to the power pack, right?)
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“The earth has music for those who listen”
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You Matter.
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Last edited by Vicegrip; 07-22-2016 at 03:10 PM.
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  #20  
Old 07-23-2016, 10:25 AM
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Yes on service disconnect, I too have read the stories.

No cathedral ceiling, my office is above the garage.
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