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Old 08-10-2017, 07:05 PM
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Default WTB: 7mm Flare Nut Wrench

I was finishing my project, last thing to bleed is the clutch, and of course the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw looks like it has been on there for centuries. Since it looks as if it will strip just by looking at it, does anyone have a 7mm flare nut wrench to give me the best chance to succeed?

I am in Leesburg/Ashburn, but anywhere around Tysons would be great as well. Thanks!
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Old 08-11-2017, 01:57 PM
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don't think you need a flair wrench to work a bleed screw.

Put a 7 mm six point socket on it to get it loose then use a regular wrench. Heat that sucker up a bit and hose it with some penetrating fluid first!
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Old 08-14-2017, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicegrip View Post
don't think you need a flair wrench to work a bleed screw.

Put a 7 mm six point socket on it to get it loose then use a regular wrench. Heat that sucker up a bit and hose it with some penetrating fluid first!
X2
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Old 08-15-2017, 11:02 AM
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X3. If you have a non-ratchet handle for that socket (like a small breaker bar, maybe a 3/8" with a 1/4" adapter) you would be able to close it right after it's loosened so it doesn't leak while you flip the ratchet handle the other way. If you do that, hold the bar up close to the bleed screw so you don't put much force on it, and also put a finger against the end by the socket so your force is contained as a twisting force, and not a sheering force. Good luck!
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Old 08-15-2017, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr K View Post
X3. If you have a non-ratchet handle for that socket (like a small breaker bar, maybe a 3/8" with a 1/4" adapter) you would be able to close it right after....!
I'd use a 1/4" drive and ratchet/breaker bae!! Much less chance of over torqueing!!
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Old 08-15-2017, 02:45 PM
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Not many have even a 3/8" breaker bar and fewer still have a 1/4" one. But I agree with you--that's what I would have used (for this identical purpose) had I had one.

Peter
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Old 08-15-2017, 06:13 PM
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Not many have even a 3/8" breaker bar and fewer still have a 1/4" one. But I agree with you--that's what I would have used (for this identical purpose) had I had one.

Peter
a simple piece of pipe that slips over the ratchet handle.
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Old 08-17-2017, 12:03 PM
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The point here is not extra force, but rather the ability to tighten immediately after loosening because there's no tube on the brake bleeder. That's why a breaker bar would be used rather than a ratchet handle, but you don't want to apply much force in this situation.
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Old 08-17-2017, 01:13 PM
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Don't forget to squirt a little penetrating oil on the bleeder, before you try to crack it open. Every little bit helps, especially if it's been a while since the last time you bled it.
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  #10  
Old 08-17-2017, 06:34 PM
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Thanks all for the advice. While replacing the brake master cylinder and the clutch master cylinder, I read it is recommended to replace both clutch cylinders when doing one. So I ended up just replacing the slave cylinder as well and did not have to mess with the screw anymore (but I had already rounded it quite a bit apparently).
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