[TomChan]

Originally Posted by vranko

Tom, thanks so much for the detailed explanation! Especially about how setup can affect the PSM engagement. Overdriving the car can also of course cause this

And thank you again! I argued with a Porsche driving instructor about this at one of our events. He said it always comes on and I said BS. When I disabled my yaw sensor and the stability control wasn't engaging anymore I found a few places where my loose car was saving me without me knowing about it. Could not even tell the car was loose.

My pleasure.

The PSM on this generation of cars allows for a big margin for setup error. Which is fine if the driver knows about what its doing. It is very unfortunate when drivers don't know the PSM is making the car less loose and then they turn off PSM. With the delayed and possibly decreased intervention it has caught drivers off guard. Have done too many repairs as a result. Hope that doesn't happen to anyone who has read this.

Edit: meant not loose, not less loose.

[marianne m]

Originally Posted by BillC

Just FYI, I have a full set of the GT3/Cup ducts (which I'm pretty sure are also for the GT2) that Tom has pictured above for sale in the classifieds. These can be made to fit 987s and 997s by trimming the fender liner as needed -- won't take much, just a little around the outside edge.

However, Dan may have dibs -- waiting to hear from him.

let me know if they are still available, i'm interested, but i'll need to examine those photos more closely to make sure i can do the install.

[Otto]

Originally Posted by Chopper Dropper

Saw the GT4 rear ducts on Mike's car, they are GT4 parts, don't know if generally available, but Mike and Dan Dazzo were impressed with how they looked at least.
Dirk

checked with suncoast and they have already tried the gt4 rear ducts on the cayman s and they don't really direct the air to the right place, so they say

[HoodPin]

FWIW, as some have already alluded, there's also a potential brake overheating problem associated with loosy-goosy braking technique. On the track, braking should be a relatively quick and single-use process. I've observed that brakes can overheat if there's a lot of feathering use of the brakes, particularly in a longer braking zone, like T1 at SP. Riding on & off the brakes can cause heat to increase. Best to pick a consistent braking point, and apply a single hard braking effort, and for the shortest/time distance necessary.

[roundel]

I am glad to know that PSM does infact not allow itself to be completely turned off. I have seen some blinking lights on newer Cayman's on the skidpad despite the button being pressed to kill it. I can still beat the nannies with inputs intended to maintain a yaw angle, but have felt the car thinking I was a dummkof.

[Fumes]

Originally Posted by HoodPin

Best to pick a consistent braking point, and apply a single hard braking effort, and for the shortest/time distance necessary.

would this be true for the rearward engine inclined amongst us?

[HoodPin]

Originally Posted by Fumes

would this be true for the rearward engine inclined amongst us?

I don't see why not. Keep in mind that we're looking for maximum braking effort, which will be dependent upon the capabilities of the car. A car without ABS will require more modulation, but the objective is to reach peak "useful" braking capacity as quickly as possible. An ABS equipped car will allow you to mash the brake pedal, while it modulates, very quickly, the braking effort, and even wheel by wheel, as it avoids lockup. A seasoned driver in an non-ABS car learns to modulate the brakes near the peak, to achieve "threshold braking", sometimes even chirping the tires along the way. But a human might modulate a couple times a second, while a modern ABS system can do it hundreds of times. Also, I'm not suggesting jumping on the brakes so hard that you upset the balance of the car. There is a certain amount of "squeeze" you need to employee to keep the car settled. But as you get better, the "squeeze" takes less time.

But the key is to find that consistent point where you can apply nearly 100% braking effort, and scrub your speed to the desired turn-in speed at the same time you're "briskly" coming off the brakes (trail braking may change this somewhat, but not much really). Of course, you also have to be aware when things change. Such as nailing a new line out of T10, and finding out you have to brake a bit sooner for T1. Or if the tires or brakes start to go away.

When you look at the data charts of faster drivers, you'll see steep climbs on their braking effort to a max plateau that's maintained only as long as necessary, and then a quick drop back down to -0- brakes. Whereas the novice's chart will be a slow rise at initial braking, followed by peaks and valleys as they try to arrive at the turn it point at sorta the desired speed. These prolonged modulations of the brakes are not good for dissipating heat.

[BillC]

Originally Posted by marianne m

let me know if they are still available, i'm interested, but i'll need to examine those photos more closely to make sure i can do the install.

Sorry, but Dan picked the parts up this afternoon, so no longer available (unless he changes his mind).