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  #21  
Old 11-22-2014, 04:11 PM
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It can also be useful to put a volt meter on the battery at the terminals when you crank the car. If the battery voltage doesn't change much, there is no power getting to the starter (could be the switch, bad ground, other reasons). If the voltage drops a bit (maybe to 11 or 10.5) voltage is likely getting to the starter (and the starter should be getting warm to hot). If the voltage drops to 6 or 7, the battery is bad.

Then put the volt meter between the positive battery terminal and the ground on the starter. you should see 12V when not cranking. If the voltage drops significantly (or even goes to 0) when cranking, you have a bad ground.

Then put the volt meter on the starter terminal and the starter ground. Should be 0 when not cranking and a little lower than 12 (maybe 10 to 11) when cranking. If it stays at 12 when cranking, you have a bad starter/solenoid.
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  #22  
Old 11-22-2014, 10:09 PM
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The frame to transmission ground is under the car. It attaches to the firewall just at the bottom edge of the rear seat (under the car), runs just above the transmission mount cross-bar, and attaches to the transmission just in front of the transmission mount cross-bar.
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  #23  
Old 11-22-2014, 11:11 PM
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i just dont see how a ground all the sudden comes lose. I think that there was a bad battery that was removed and charged. When said battery was returned to the car it was A. Not really charged or B. Was not installed properly/something came loose in process. Experience tells me that simply retracing steps will reveal the issue.
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  #24  
Old 11-23-2014, 12:13 AM
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Bad bat won't charge. 10 min with a meter and a plan can get this one.
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  #25  
Old 11-23-2014, 11:07 AM
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Battery was recharged yesterday, I did not do something right on reinstallation yesterday.

I had the battery checked again this morning, it was fine. I took my time reinstalling, now I am back to having power for headlights, etc, but not starting. I will start working through the many other suggestions now - jump start (let it run a bit, turn it off, see if it happens again?), grounding wires. I don't have a spare ignition switch yet, but I will keep plugging away.

If I cannot get it started, are there any "make sure you... " nuggets of information I should know before having the car towed somewhere?
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  #26  
Old 11-23-2014, 11:27 AM
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See if you have power at the starter. Check for 12 V at the big wire and 12V at the little one when someone turns the key. You might have a stuck starter. Listen to the starter. Even with low voltage you should hear the solenoid click.

Trouble shooting elec from a distance is like playing golf in the dark. Where in Herndon are you? I might be taking a bike ride that way this afternoon and if not too far from the W&OD can stop in with a meter to make some tests.
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“Those that can make you believe in absurdities can make you commit atrocities.” Voltaire.

"There is grandeur in this view of life...." Darwin.

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  #27  
Old 11-23-2014, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicegrip View Post
See if you have power at the starter. Check for 12 V at the big wire and 12V at the little one when someone turns the key. You might have a stuck starter. Listen to the starter. Even with low voltage you should hear the solenoid click.

Trouble shooting elec from a distance is like playing golf in the dark. Where in Herndon are you? I might be taking a bike ride that way this afternoon and if not too far from the W&OD can stop in with a meter to make some tests.
I am quite a bit south of the W&OD - a couple blocks from West Ox and Fairfax County Parkway.

What kind of a meter do I need to use?

I am also trying to figure out the jumper cable - to put the negative back on the motor/transmission, we are probably talking about a second set of cables, right?
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  #28  
Old 11-23-2014, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Handlebar View Post
I am quite a bit south of the W&OD - a couple blocks from West Ox and Fairfax County Parkway.

What kind of a meter do I need to use?

I am also trying to figure out the jumper cable - to put the negative back on the motor/transmission, we are probably talking about a second set of cables, right?
FFC parkway has a bike trail that connects directly to the W&OD. Might be able to stop in late this afternoon. Wife has nebulous plans that prevent me from knowing just yet.

You need a VOM type meter that can read DC voltage in the 0 to 20 V range.
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“Those that can make you believe in absurdities can make you commit atrocities.” Voltaire.

"There is grandeur in this view of life...." Darwin.

The mountains are calling and I must go.

“The earth has music for those who listen”
Shakespeare.

You Matter.
(Until you multiply yourself times the speed of light squared. Then you Energy)

“We’ve got lots of theories, we just don’t have the evidence’.
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  #29  
Old 11-23-2014, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicegrip View Post
FFC parkway has a bike trail that connects directly to the W&OD. Might be able to stop in late this afternoon. Wife has nebulous plans that prevent me from knowing just yet.

You need a VOM type meter that can read DC voltage in the 0 to 20 V range.

Where would I find that is that an advance auto parts or a different kind of store?
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  #30  
Old 11-23-2014, 12:02 PM
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Uncle Enzo, I don't know how a ground just comes loose either. But, I've been stranded in a '77 911 and an '83 911 that wouldn't start on two different occasions even with a jump to the battery. Both times, I got it started by shining up the ground straps. Could just be me but history repeats itself.
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White/Green '91 SSM Miata #01
Silver '00 Miata
Green '96 911 (993) Carrera #409
Blue '09 911 (997.2) Carrera S Cab
Black '15 Yukon XL w/ '98 Trailex (Tow Vehicle)
Burnt Orange '75 FJ40
Yellow '19 718 Boxster (wife regretfully sold it to fit the grandkids)
Black '83 911SC Targa (regrettably sold when the second car seat didn't fit and 2nd daughter came along)
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