[BlackTalon]

Originally Posted by roundel

You are correct sir, unless one is consistently getting all the streets are capable of. Once I passed you in my stock car on street tires, I allowed myself to consider track rubber.

In reality I burned up about 10 sets of Hoosiers back when I got tires free from Chuck G and before I got married and had kids.

Don't worry though Dave, I'll keep the Porkchop on BFG Sports for now.

Thanks!

[magnetic1]

Here is what happens when u dont reinforce those supports:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1164140

[HoodPin]

Originally Posted by magnetic1

Here is what happens when u dont reinforce those supports:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1164140

At one of the NASA races at SP last year, a GTS Bimmer (not 100% sure but think it was an E36) had a rear suspension failure during during one of the races, and couldn't stop going into T1. He was on the inside of T1, basically going straight towards the gravel, and ended up t-boning a 944 Cup car that was already turned in, and almost to the apex. Sounds like a weak link......

[roundel]

Originally Posted by magnetic1

Here is what happens when u dont reinforce those supports:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1164140

I appreciate the info. I have discussed the issue with Jeff Shaw who owns a body shop next to my work and is pretty much THE bimmer shop in Baltimore. Once I get tires on it, I am taking it to him for the added welding (per the instructions on the Turner site) and an alignment. He only wants $300-$400 for the work and full alignment so it would be kinda silly to skip. It appears that the cars listed prolly have stiffer springs and sways that add to the wear and tear, but with these stiffer bushings and the way I work that car, I think some extra beef makes sense. While I had the consoles off, I tried to inspect closely, and I did not see any tell tale chipping paint or corrosion in the area yet so I hope I am getting in there before any damage has been done.

I was surprised that the bushings looked better than I expected. BMW's liquimetal bushing stuff is weird. It gets softer without ripping or crumbling and it remains very tough.

As for the alignment, I have never fiddled with rear settings, but Jeff claims he can adjust the camber and toe a bit. I have the front set with 0 deg toe and about -1.7 deg camber with a hair extra caster angle. All of my settings are within the BMW window though. Any advice on what to aim for with the rear? I have heard that some of the deflection in the OEM bushing was designed in to change the toe under cornering, but I cannot claim to understand it. With the Powerflex I would anticipate less movement so does setting more toe mimic the OEM situation under load?

My car does get some street use ferrying the kiddies around and I have managed to reduce the understeer with my front settings and '95 symetric wheels on my '97. I would hope to retain this balance of a red cunt hair of looseness.