[Trak Ratt]

Thin wrench to hold inside bolt head on spring plates Think seriously about doing control arm bushes too.

Originally Posted by Dr K

There's someone on this board that was going to "help" me with it but couldn't, and perhaps they can use that time to help you--they can PM you if they're man enough to own up

:XX Fuch you Dave
Didn’t see you anywhere around when I was trying to put my engine/trans back in before VIR? Now that I think of it no other time either.
Don’t forget who picked up and delivered your tyre trailer (without any help from your whinny ass I might add ). And now all I hear is a continuous stream of abuse because I happen to have projects of my own that need finishing.

Besides didn’t it give U a chance to watch while Jazz “helped” you with that

[Rick V]

http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/showthread.php?t=15055

[Yoda]

Mike,
I have done this job on three cars over the last couple years and highly recommend the polybronze bushings. They are the most expensive of the bushing options, but are quite easy to install and result in a good, non-squeaky ride. I think the cheaper up front cost of some options is offset by the extra labor fitting them, but that is just my .02.

A couple of points regardless of your bushing choice.

Take a good look at the outer rear spring plate covers. These are often rusted on the bottom and you don't want to have to wait with the car taken apart for new ones to be shipped.

To do the rears, even just to reindex, you have to pull the rocker covers and the little round access panels in the rear, just forward of the tires. Not a big deal, just need to pull the end caps and then pull the rubber strip off as it covers the top screws which will need to be removed. There are plastic spacers on the bottom bolts which are different sizes on each side, so note which goes where. These bolts also hold the clamps that hold the oil lines on the passenger side.

PB Blaster is your friend on the round panels. They are held on by a flat plate which fits on a stud welded to the back of the plate. I'd start hitting those studs a couple of days before the big event to make sure they are ready to come loose.

Replacing the rubber strip on the rockers can be a pain. The top of the rocker is essentially a sideways T which mates with two slots on the inside of the rubber strip. The easiest way I have found to get them back on is to first thoroughly clean the slots in the rubber strip, then lubricate the lower one with a slippery substance of your choice. I have used soapy water on one and WD40 on another, the WD40 seemed to work better. I slip the rubber on the lower arm of the T, then pull it all the way on. Once it is nearly on, I have had to work it on in sections, using the rubbers compressability so I wasn't trying to slide to whole strip at once. Once the lower slot is on, the top can be pulled up and hooked on with relative ease.

To pull the front t-bars, you will probably have to pull remove the front sway bar to make room to get it out. There is also a small little foam donut that seals the rear of the front t-bar that I guarantee is shot, you will need two of those on a rebushing too.

Hope this helps

Brent

[Jazzbass]

Ahh... I love the sight of someone other than me sliding down the slippery slope. So, what do you need? Well, lets consider your new rear shocks, new tie rods and the fact that yours is a street car. Do this:

- Elephant Racing PolyBronze Bushings Front (~$300)
- Elephant Racing PolyBronze Bushings Rear (~$240)
- New rubber front sway bar bushings (~$20)
- New foam torsion bar seals for the front (~$5)
- New ball joints (~$120)
- New front shocks - Bilstein HDs. Find out if you have Boge or Bilstien assemblies. (~$200)
- "Bump steer" steering rack spacer kit. (~$15)
- New rear rubber sway bar bushings (~$20)

Total? About $1000. This assumes you keep the stock tbars. If your fronts are fubar, I have a set of stock fronts in perfect condition I'll let go for a very reasonable price .

I doubt you need new banana arms bushings, but if do ignore what Dr K said about not being able to buy OEM ones, because you can. Figure another $200 for that. Finally an alignment will run you $300 or so ($150 at HBL).

[VaSteve]

Originally Posted by Jazzbass

- New foam torsion bar seals for the front (~$5)

:XX:XX:XX

What the hell else did I forget to order???

Evidently ball joints...

[Jazzbass]

Originally Posted by VaSteve

What the hell else did I forget to order???

Probably these:

- Ball Joint Nut
- Ball Joint Wedge Pin
- Wedge Pin Lock Nut

Items 4, 5, and 7 here.

[VaSteve]

Yeah, all that shit. (and the ball joints themselves) Dammit. It's still a couple of weeks off. Can I borrow the tool?

[Dr K]

Little secrets - you can get the ball joint wedge pin off by reversing the nut and hitting it with a hammer -- DON'T DO THAT!! It's a special lock nut not easily available at your local parts store, and when you deform it by hitting it with a hammer, you WILL need to replace it. Ask me how I know. Of course, I note that Jazz listed it among what you needed to buy...

Dave, I wasn't asking you to help ME, I was asking you to help HIM (kind of like that line from "Wedding Crashers"). And I only watched Jazz remove the old trailing arm (Banana arm) bushings. I helped, too. And I did more than help a few weeks later when we removed Bill M's. Fuch you, Dave. Hey, I though you were leaving, you teaser...

Jazz,
Okay, you can get OEM. For the same price you can get monoballs, and for another $50 get them weather sealed. Of course, the OEM will still probably last a little longer and be a slightly softer ride.

Lots of us have the digital angle measurement devices (inclinometers) needed for setting the spring plates. Sure, you can borrow one.

Peter

[Jazzbass]

Originally Posted by Dr K

Jazz,
Okay, you can get OEM. For the same price you can get monoballs, and for another $50 get them weather sealed. Of course, the OEM will still probably last a little longer and be a slightly softer ride.

Mike wants a street car. OEM are the same $$$ as monoballs, but no need for them on the street. All they do in a street car is make the ride harsher.

[michael lang]

Mike, please post when you have what you want to install and schedule with enough notice so those of us that have others to think about can make it to help you with the install.