[Vicegrip]

He removed the cotter pin and nut then cleaned off the crud a little. Put some heat on the eye on the far side from where the eye becomes arm if you know what I mean. After some heat, not red and smoking and not too hot to touch he used a 14 oz or so hammer and gave the eye a single shot right opposite but in line with the arm and the conical pin pops right out neat as can be. Not a two armed baseball bat slug but an authoritative no hesitation hit. I asked him if he ever broke or bent an arm and he said no. According to him this trick works about 80% of the time and if it works on one side it will work on both. It is good to heat even if you plan to use a puller or fork as the heat reduces the force needed to pop them apart.

[Steelspine]

I think I'll try that even though I'm replacing the arm, ball joint and the tie rod end(don't ask).

So when is the appropriate time to break out the plasma cutter?

[Steelspine]

BTW Kurt, congrats on the pink monkey joining the blue rug bug.

[scott]

does anyone have the spec for the socket that works on the ball joint threaded retainer castle nut ring thing?

Like This?


Scott

[Dr K]

I can measure mine tonight, but it was only about $15 at FLAPS. I'm pretty sure it was called a 4x4 Hub Removal Tool, and actually has a ring around the outside that keeps it centered. I've used it 3 times now and it works really well (requires a good impact driver). You can also borrow mine if you're down this way - it's not a tool I use often (but the gas would cost more than the tool unless you were coming here anyway).

Peter

[scott]

I took the suggestion of the 4x4 hub socket solution to tackle the ball joint removal and install, I purchased this 4x4 hub socket
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1695&ppt=C0195

...but the four locking "sprags" only contacted about a third of the depth of the slots in the "castlelated" ring nut.

I cut four slots between each of the sprags and then proceeded to collapse the outer ring inwards. this took about 20 mins of hammering. I thought about dragging the mig out to stitch up the slots, but thought I would give it a try with out.



Results: The socket centered better and engaged the nut deeper. I was able to use a breaker bar with extension to remove and a torque wrench to install.
when I get some spare garage time, I will clean it up a bit and weld up the relief cuts.

Consider this "gem" part of the Dorkiphus loaner tool inventory.

FLAPS price for the Lisle socket was 20 buck. Lisle part number 27250


Scott

[Vicegrip]

I like your thinking.

[Jazzbass]

Nicely done.

[Dr K]

Interesting. Mine fit almost perfectly, centered well, and removed 3 ball joints in a row without any problems whatsoever (I used an impact wrench for all three - easier to hold steady and with pressure than a breaker bar).