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#11
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^^^ Yep. Keep the ugly side hidden. Wide flange top rivets for maximum force dispersal. If this were me I'd probably make something out of a little bit stronger steel as there is a good bit of pull on this piece. I think using a large paper clamp made out of spring steel as a source and bent over 180 degrees would not bend much under the tensile pull of the hasp on the lid. Cut with a Dremel cut off wheel to width and length as needed. May need to punch hole for the rivet unless you have a good set of drill bits.
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Steve Potomac PCA Co-CI(retired) 89 944 Turbo Race car 85.5 944 NA son's 2015/2019/2020 944Cup and PCA Nat'l Champ racecar 94 968 1 of 11 Iris blue coupes 92 968 1 of 2 Tahoe Blue Cabriolets 98 993 C2S w/Aerokit II 77 911S Vintage race car project 70 Boss 302 86 Mustang SVO 24 F250 SD Godzilla "Noel spun! Noel spun! Don't do anything stupid, Dad." -the boy on the radio on the last lap of NASA race as the second place car spins behind me in T5 at Summit Point. |
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#12
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Quote:
I'm curious about the recommendation for wide-flange rivets. The load will be predominantly in shear, so the flange width should not matter much. But it is still worthwhile on the box interior to make sure the rivet cannot pull out easily (adding a washer, using a rivet with a decent-size flange, etc.). But on the exterior, against the mirror clip, I do not think it provides any real benefit unless someone were to use a very small diameter rivet. I'm always open for a physics lesson though
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David D. '87 Targa - 2024 was the year, beeches... |
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#13
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Cheaper here: https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/93011034301.html
And here, no shipping if you pick it up https://www.getporschesilverspringpa...ly-93011034301
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Karl Lucky owner of a couple 911s 1963 LeMans Convertible 336 HO V8 with a manual 3 speed 1965 Honda Sport 50 |
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#14
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If you're not going for OEM-style looks, I'd through-bolt the mirror clip and call it a day.
ed
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ed 2016 GT4 2005 Lotus Elise 1994 RX-7 R2 |
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