[aelred]

Don't worry John, I'm still going to take you up on the offer of the steering wheel and dash maintenance.

Ed, they replaced inner and outer CV boots on the right and left rears. They paid for refinishing the one wheel they messed up, I paid for the other three.

All, the tires I just wanted done, as I was going to need that to pass inspection anyway. Some things like the AC won't need doing for awhile now...

Anyway, the stupid tax is paid, now it's time for me to learn the dorki way...

[KFJ]

Originally Posted by Trak Ratt

Wow, forgot how much this stuff cost out in the world! Seeping is better than weeping but would have to see to tell. Some wetness around fittings is OK. BTW one or more of those lines may connect to the thermostat just in front of the right rear wheel. If so replacing them should be left to a Porsche shop as the stat is aluminum and can be destroyed if lines removed wrong.

DR - pretty sure the Scott is talking about oil return tubes (over HE, replace with 2 piece).

Scott - a little leaking from these is fine (and some would argue normal ). If it's significant (like it's enough to make it to the ground after the cars been sitting), there's a (slim) possibility of the oil catching fire. IMO - you can wait. Also - this is a relatively easy DIY.

[markwemple]

I feel your pain. When I bought the '76 it was supposedly dead nut mechanically. A fresh rebuild, etc! Well that fisrt year I spent about waht you just posted and that was in 1993 as a law school student. Needless to say the beer budget was severly hammered. Bring your car to a dorki for a good inspection you you can put your mind at ease. I'm sure you can find several here who will help if you ask.

[aelred]

KFJ, that's exactly what they were talking about. Since the engine was recently rebuilt (prior to my purchase), not sure why the newer 2 piece units weren't installed to replace the older units.

[BlackTalon]

Originally Posted by aelred

KFJ, that's exactly what they were talking about. Since the engine was recently rebuilt (prior to my purchase), not sure why the newer 2 piece units weren't installed to replace the older units.

No need to use collaspable tubes when motor is out and doing a rebuild. They are normally used when you want to replace leaking one-piece tubes but you don't want to pull the motor.

The next PCA Potomac Tech Inspection is May 3 at Autothority in Gaithersburg -- you should bring the car out and get it up on a lift.

[Trak Ratt]

Originally Posted by KFJ

DR - pretty sure the Scott is talking about oil return tubes (over HE, replace with 2 piece).

Scott - a little leaking from these is fine (and some would argue normal ). If it's significant (like it's enough to make it to the ground after the cars been sitting), there's a (slim) possibility of the oil catching fire. IMO - you can wait. Also - this is a relatively easy DIY.

Ops X2 on the other

[aelred]

Originally Posted by Trak Ratt

Ops X2 on the other

LOL, well, it can't be leaking that bad, I think the most oil I've had to add is 1 Qt every 1k miles or so...

[Noah]

Originally Posted by aelred

Left & Right inner/outer boots replace for $752.36

That's insane. CV boots are cheap, and the labor to change them is under two hours.

[BlackTalon]

Originally Posted by Noah

That's insane. CV boots are cheap, and the labor to change them is under two hours.

The biggest thing is you can buy/ install two new (or rebuilt) axels for about the same cost as rehabbing the existing ones. Higher material cost, but much less labor.

[Jazzbass]

Originally Posted by BlackTalon

The biggest thing is you can buy/ install two new (or rebuilt) axels for about the same cost as rehabbing the existing ones. Higher material cost, but much less labor.

Yep. To replace a single axle, figure 1 hour shop time + $300 parts. To rebuild, figure $70 parts + 3 hours shop time. All in all, when paying a shop to do it, the difference is about $30 to get a whole new axle assuming $100/hr labor. Of course, the shop will want to reboot because their profit margin is higher.