[Rick V]

Like Steve mentioned just TAP the new seal in. I also like to cut up a plastic jug (like a washer solvant jug) and make a strip about 3 inches wide, and long enough to wrap around the end of the carnkshaft. Take your homemade seal tool, wrap it around the crank after putting some oil on it. Now slip the seal over the "shim" you just made. TAP the seal into place. when it is installed simply slip the shim out. This will aid you in not tearing the new seal and not slipping the spring off.
Don't force the seal, it needs to go in evenly or trouble could be afoot.
PS be carefull not to damage the crank sensor, it's wires. or the connector up top. This is easy to do when dropping the back of the engine.

[gogo911]

I like the shim idea. That's the next task as the flywheel is off and the oil is drained. I hope I didn't damage the crank sensor... I'll take a look.

[Jase007]

Russell:

Crank sensors [speed sensors, hall sensors, refernce sensors] are known to fail and typically cause a no-start b/c DME / ECU / ECM doesn't get a speed reference when starter is turning over.

On your car this sounds like an opportune time WYIT to replace the crank sensor. Don't know if you have to measure and set depth of sensor to toothed ring on flywheel or there is a magnetic pick-up or a gap in the flywheel ring but ... if you do ... this seems like an ideal time for some preventative maintenance.

FWIW I've pro-activley replaced mine on both my E30 [front of motor, easy to do, only one sensor] and E39 [back of motor under intake, access from bottom, PITA sorta] BMWs. Less than 1 "C" note for part and labor is free + and good POM [peace of mind].

[gogo911]

I am in the "reassembly" stage. I have the new clutch in, new pilot bearing, new rear main seal, and I even adjusted the throw on the heater control valve so that the car isn't blasting heat all the time.

Question: now that the pressure plate is torqued down (did the criss cross tighten a little at a time across the bolts) the throw out bearing assembly has quite a bit of lateral play between the pressure plate splines. I figure this is the way it is supposed to be as I had used shims to get it to spec on the plate before the plate was fastened to the flywheel. Is having that much to and fro (lateral) play okay? The throw out bearing itself spins just fine. I need to know before I start the next phase of assembling the bell housing/ torque tube/transaxle.

This project has a life of its own. Definitely not for the feint hearted.

Thanks

[gogo911]

By the way, the plastic bottle shim idea for seating the rear main seal that Rick offered worked like a charm. Thanks Rick.

[gogo911]

Originally Posted by Jase007

Russell:

Crank sensors [speed sensors, hall sensors, refernce sensors] are known to fail and typically cause a no-start b/c DME / ECU / ECM doesn't get a speed reference when starter is turning over.

On your car this sounds like an opportune time WYIT to replace the crank sensor. Don't know if you have to measure and set depth of sensor to toothed ring on flywheel or there is a magnetic pick-up or a gap in the flywheel ring but ... if you do ... this seems like an ideal time for some preventative maintenance.

FWIW I've pro-activley replaced mine on both my E30 [front of motor, easy to do, only one sensor] and E39 [back of motor under intake, access from bottom, PITA sorta] BMWs. Less than 1 "C" note for part and labor is free + and good POM [peace of mind].

Well, the car is back together and it won't start. No, I didn't buy new sensors ($180 a pop from 944online.com--this will be more like 4 c notes when shipping is added). :XX But maybe one or both went bad when I pulled them. The one way in the back was really stuck but good.

I'll double check all electrical hookups, etc. I also snapped a vacuum tube on the master cylinder while trying to get the old sensors reinstalled. I am ready to go hi order on the car, cut it up and sell it for parts. I'll keep the fuchs, though.

Any ideas on what may be wrong?

[VaSteve]

Check *all* your connections. I had an issue once where it would start for 1 second and die. I was ready to cry. Then I remember I disconnected the MAF sensor to do whatever I was doing. No issues after that.

I have bunch of those plastic "y"'s if you need one.

[Trak Ratt]

I have an extra set from the 24S if you want to verify yours are bad. 24S ran well before meeting its well deserved end in the crusher

[KevinOyler]

Verify the connectors for the two sensors are not reversed. Also verify you reset the sensor gaps to spec.

[gogo911]

Dave, I might take you up on your offer. Not sure of the gaps to spec as these just push right on in into the sensor holes. I noticed on the turbo and later models that Porsche got a little fancier with adjustment capabilities.

Should I try to pull them out a little bit? I am also having issues connecting the connectors... they don't want to stay connected.