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  #21  
Old 05-15-2026, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N0tt0N View Post
Peter,
The rear control unit is under the driver's seat. If it is not connected that's a problem. It needs to be connected (and grounded). It is keyed to the security system. Fix that first as it probably will solve the problem.
Hrmmm.... just reread your initial post and you said the car started. Was this AFTER the cage (super important). Is that how you got it on the trailer, fired it up and then drove it on? If so, unless the controller came loose somehow it is less likely to be the culprit though it could still be if not grounded and it just happened to be when you started it. Still worth double checking it is connected to the wiring harness and grounded.
Martin, the car started before the cage work. After the cage work with many tries to start with external batteries, chargers, and roll starts - only the first time we hooked up the external battery we got 2 seconds that sounded like trying to crank then nothing. Charging battery for 3 days - shows charged, no significant voltage drop when key is turned, but no click.

We had to push it on the trailer.

I removed the driver's seat and the immovilizer was just shoved in there (not attached to anything), connetected to 2 wiring harnesses but the ground wire (which is bolted to the floor) goes to the harness, not directly to the immobilizer and there's no larger brown wire in either of those harnesses.

Any particular way to see if the immobilizer is grounded?
Is it possible the person welding disconnected something and forgot to reconnect? If so, what would be likely?

Finally, if I want to run 12V directly to the starter, I assume that would be post 3 in the photo below--is that correct? My assumption was that 12V goes to post 1, and if power goes to post 2, that closes the solenoid and provides power to post 3. My hope was to apply those 12V to a screwdriver and thread it through the space to the post/nut without removing the throttle body (since I'm assuming this is an electrical issue and I will not, in the end, need to replace the starter). Looking for feedback that this isn't stupid if I'm careful and cover MOST of the screwdriver with electrical tape...

As always, thanks in advance.

Peter
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  #22  
Old 05-15-2026, 08:59 PM
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Peter,
You can probably rule out the controller being the problem then (two connectors well connected and locked in. Ground wire connected to the nut. The ground comes back in ). Sounds fine then!

GP7 (the ground nut the brown wire is attached to under the driver's seat) goes into the harness to splice SP070 and then comes back in as a fat (2.5mm) brown wire into pin 11 on one of the connectors to the control unit. So, if the harness brown is connected to the stud/nut on the chasis and the connectors are locked in then it is grounded.
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