[Trak Ratt]

Originally Posted by Dr K

Thanks, all. I'll see if I can get a meter on the starter to check the voltage.

I assume the "safety switch" to which Denis is referring is the immobilizer. I've never actually had to deal with an immobilizer, which I assume has been moved from underneath the driver's seat. Any idea what a common "new" location would likely be? I figure I'll need to remove the roof (much easier after Bill C taught me how to install quarter-turn fasteners) and maybe the driver's seat but can't believe they'd leave it under there in a race car...

I don’t believe they are the same. The trunk switch is to stop the fuel pump incase of rear end collision. IIRC the immobilized is an anti theft .

[Dr K]

So, which of these switches would allow the engine to crank and not catch (NOT the problem here), and which would keep the starter motor (and solenoid) from doing anything at all (I don't even get a click).

I assume the following would inhibit even a click:
Bad key switch
Bad solenoid
No battery power
Clutch/Brake switches but should allow cranking if bypassed (as they are on this car)

Thanks for the advice (and any corrections to this post)

[HoodPin]

Check battery voltage first. If seems good, then try to start. If voltage drops way down, then the battery is toast.

FLAPS carry remote starter switch, where you can jump the starter to bypass the ignition switch.


There's also some battery testers that will assess the battery's condition, without having to turn on anything.

[Dr K]

Thanks! Isn't O'Reilly's a midwest chain? Is there one up near you?

Fortunately, they have these at FLAPS that do exist in MoCo, like AutoZone and Advance Auto...

BTW, this is all your fault, Tony. If you only hadn't sold me that seat I just had installed... I'm sure that's the problem!!

[cmartin]

what are you trying to accomplish? Screwdriver across the terminals works too.

Does the starter get a signal to start? test light.

This simple test cuts the testing in half.

[TurboPooch]

Get the battery tested first since it is a simple task. If ok call the shop and see if they unhooked the battery, DME, and immobilizer when they were welding on the car. If not, welding voltages can damage them...like getting struck by mild lightning. If they did, then my bet is on the immobilizer or starter relay. Eliminate the immobilizer by borrowing one with it's DME companion and key head with the chip in it and swapping out all three.

[Dr K]

Originally Posted by TurboPooch

Get the battery tested first since it is a simple task. If ok call the shop and see if they unhooked the battery, DME, and immobilizer when they were welding on the car. If not, welding voltages can damage them...like getting struck by mild lightning. If they did, then my bet is on the immobilizer or starter relay. Eliminate the immobilizer by borrowing one with its DME companion and key head with the chip in it and swapping out all three.

Steve, can you put the wrong key in the car (with the key's matching DME and immobilizer) and start the car that way? How do you turn the key? Thanks in advance.

Chris - thanks for the advice.

All: does the immobilizer keep the starter from turning, or just not let the engine "catch" while the starter is turning it?

I'll check with the (very reputable) shop about disconnecting the battery, DME and immobilizer before welding.

[Goggles Paesano]

Immobilizer, clucth safety switch allows power, but you will have zero starting power. No clicks at the starter, no cranking, nothing.

[Dr K]

Ran out of time to do much today, but put a meter on the battery - stabilized at 12.7V. Turned the key - no significant change (and still no click).

There's a good-sized electronics box under the driver's seat, looks just stuffed in there and not attached. NO puddle of water on the floor at this point, but it's been weeks since the cage mods were done. Next 2 steps try to jump power to the starter (engine is now exposed) and remove seat to get full access to what's under there. Will update.

Thanks again, Dorkis.

[N0tt0N]

Peter,
The rear control unit is under the driver's seat. If it is not connected that's a problem. It needs to be connected (and grounded). It is keyed to the security system. Fix that first as it probably will solve the problem.
Hrmmm.... just reread your initial post and you said the car started. Was this AFTER the cage (super important). Is that how you got it on the trailer, fired it up and then drove it on? If so, unless the controller came loose somehow it is less likely to be the culprit though it could still be if not grounded and it just happened to be when you started it. Still worth double checking it is connected to the wiring harness and grounded.