[edevinney]

OK - tips and tricks for stuck exhaust studs? 6 came out, six did not. The remainers are rusted and in no condition to be reused, so really must come out.

To date, I've tried and failed with:

• days of PB Blaster, with hammer tapping
• heating the stud
• heating the head from the exhaust port
• welding on a nut and trying to remove when warm
• welding on a nut and letting it cool
• welding on a nut and heating the head from the exhaust port

In each case I've tried gentle turning R and L, sometimes with light impact. I support the tool and stud while applying force, to avoid bending forces. The studs just laugh at me and snap, usually right above the twisting point. I'm a fat, out of shape computer guy usually using a 3/8 ratchet, so there's something going on here besides my Hulkish strength.

The motor is coming out, so I could pull the heads to have the studs removed and have the valves done While I'm In There, but as noted I'm trying hard to avoid Shipwright's Disease.

Maybe the studs have gotten brittle with age and heat cycles? Regardless, I'd really like to get them out safely and move on to bigger things - hints and tips are most appreciated

[Too Tall]

Heat it with a torch, spray water and quickly use a impact wrench.

[cmartin]

You said heat, glowing red?

[edevinney]

Originally Posted by cmartin

You said heat, glowing red?

Yep - the stud anyway. Couldn't get the head very hot, though, even with an oxy-propane torch. Maybe I'm just a woose with the torch.

[dyerkes]

Are you just trying to remove the headers, or did you already remove the headers and for whatever reason need to remove the studs. If you were just attempting to remove the headers you simply need to use a torch and get the exhaust nuts red hot before attempting to remove them. Heat will cause the nut to expand as well as break any rust bond. If you purposely focus the heat to the stud, then it too will expand, and It won´t be as effective. Stomski Racing makes a great tool for accurately boring out broken exhaust or intake studs.

Regards,
David

[edevinney]

Headers are off - in 6 cases, the nut was frozen to the stud and the stud came out of the head. The other 6 nuts came off the studs, but the studs are rusted and were in no shape to reuse. Thanks for the pointer to the Stomski tool - that looks to be the bee's knees.

[Vicegrip]

Work on it when the motor is out. Weld a nut on. Heat the aluminum to 350 or so col the stud with a blast of spray type penetrating oil of choice. Use an impact gun set to a lower setting. Low enough that a full power blast can't twist off the stud.

Heat, spray and hit it with the gun for 90 seconds or more. Spray more pen oil and heat it again. Hit it with a full cycle again It will come out on one of the cycles. Penetrating oil goes in deeper as the metals cool.down. If it comes part way out and binds up run it back in a bit after soaking I. some more oil. Aluminum oxide is very hard and sometimes wads up and jams up in the threads

Headphones and some long interesting podcast to maintain patience.

[jgerock]

Originally Posted by edevinney

Headers are off - in 6 cases, the nut was frozen to the stud and the stud came out of the head. The other 6 nuts came off the studs, but the studs are rusted and were in no shape to reuse. Thanks for the pointer to the Stomski tool - that looks to be the bee's knees.

I have the Stomski tool. I used it once when replacing the heat exchangers on my 77 targa. It works great. Since I am selling the car, I will also sell the tool. Pm me if you are interested.

[edevinney]

For lack of oil line service wrenches (darn you, slow shipping!), the engine wasn't *quite* ready to come out this weekend. So I've spent the time doing maintenance & cleaning tasks and ordering large piles of stuff from suppliers. Glad my time is free, because the parts sure aren't, but I'm looking forward to the results.

Cleaned out all the wheel wells, with a big hat tip to Rothaus for giving up his secrets of Oil Eater and muscle. The oil eater has a hard time with the hardest cosmoline+dirt encrustations, but Stoner's Xenit spray will dissolve those crusts into goo. Then use the oil eater spray to emulsify the goo, and gently wash off. Most satisfying, even if the car will never, ever get near Englebart's standards!

The Stoner part of the name is serious - MSDS says it's mostly naptha and other distillates, with a pleasant citrus smell that covers the damage to your brain cells. Keep a door or window open.

Cleaned up a bunch of stainless exhaust parts with a mild muriatic acid bath - about one tablespoon per quart of water, and let soak for a few days, followed by a mild baking soda rinse. They won't come out shiny new, but it gets most of the rust stains off and loosens the crud for easy wire brushing.

Discounting the nearly-dissolved rear bumper stays and catalyst heat shield, I've only found a little rust where the rear fender support wings bolt to the frame rails. Inside the rail is super clean, so I cleaned up the flaky rust and entombed the remainder per Rust Bullet's instructions. The parts are thoroughly buried so I slopped it on and will backfill with fluid film before buttoning things back up. Hopefully it'll work but since it's taken 23 years to get this far things should be good.

The Rust Bullet paint is as much hydrocarbon fun as the Xenit, btw. Keep a window open and enjoy the old-timey shop smell.

I'm sure there's rot waiting to be found in the windshield or backlight frame. Or both. Maybe we should have a pool?

[Vicegrip]

hey now, the little blue roll cart seems familiar somehow.

Poor mans oil line wrenches is harbor fright cheap but big wrenches one mm too small and ground open to just fit.