[racer]

Originally Posted by Modian

I’m a bit surprised yours only dynoed at 192. I thought they were good for low 200s at least. Did you have cams done?

Honestly don't recall all the engine details. Started as a 1978 Euro SC (180hp). Imported in 1985 and the engine was done by Stoddard in Ohio in the mid 1980s and I owned the car from 2000-2006(?) 192 wheels is maybe 220 crank? Dyno done around 2004, so it had quite a few track miles by then. As mentioned, also a CIS car which, well, isn't the most advanced FI system vs a modern EFI unit or even well tuned webers. Car was sold to a fellow Dorki who I believe had the motor rebuilt but don't know to what specs.

[Modian]

Hmm, maybe I've been reading other posts wrong and they've been talking about crank hp and I've been thinking wheel hp.

Thanks for the info.

[Modian]

Fixed the remaining vacuum leaks finally. I bought new exhaust gaskets and was all prepared to put them on, though I was worried about snapping a bolt holding the heat exchangers on since I don't have a way to heat them up. Decided to first try torquing the bolts on the flange I saw the leak at, and found out the leaking one had a bolt below torque spec. Tightened it and checked all the others and ran smoke again. All buttoned up!

Drove it around this afternoon and, along with the new spark map I put on, put down a much better tune. Everything is running smoothly, and the car is a ton of fun. It's making it hard to decide what to do as I've begun actively searching for a 964/993 DE setup car again to replace my M3.

One of the reasons I decided to look for vacuum leaks was the misfires and because I could not get a stable AFR. Misfires are much better but the AFR is maybe slightly better. It constantly jitters. I don't know if that's normal, if I have constant misfires, or if has some noise being introduced. Can anyone pass along some knowledge or give some thoughts? I attached a screen cap of a log I took. It's the yellow line on the bottom graph. The table on the bottom right shows how much it changes in the little section I highlighted with grey bars.

[Boy83sc]

Originally Posted by Modian

I like that. Orange is definitely in the running. Plenty of time to decide.

I need to decide on a look first. The impact bumpers are actually growing on me, which is kind of shocking me. I’m actually debating just removing the strakes and holes, fixing the rust at the hood corners, and touching up areas versus backdate RSR/IROC/custom whatever. Would still like to drop weight though.

I’m also going to need a rebuild this winter (5 cylinders with 10% leak, 1 with 20%). Leak seems to be from the rings. Problem is Mahle no longer makes the pistons for the 3.1, so if I need new ones then I’m hosed. So do I tear it down, check pistons and cylinders and rebuild if okay, make a 3.2ss if not, or just go straight to dropping a 3.6 in? Anyone local have a 3.2ss?

I have a 1983 sc that was rebuilt in to a 3.2 ss more than 10 years ago. It made 224 rwhp on a dynojet.

[onboost]

Originally Posted by Modian

I like that. Orange is definitely in the running. Plenty of time to decide.

I need to decide on a look first. The impact bumpers are actually growing on me, which is kind of shocking me. I’m actually debating just removing the strakes and holes, fixing the rust at the hood corners, and touching up areas versus backdate . Would still like to drop weight though.

Problem is Mahle no longer makes the pistons for the 3.1, so if I need new ones then I’m hosed. So do I tear it down, check pistons and cylinders and rebuild if okay, make a 3.2ss if not, or just go straight to dropping a 3.6 in? Anyone local have a 3.2ss?

Hey Aaron,
Paul here.. met you at the 70th Birthday gathering at Silver Spring Porsche.

Yeah, take your time to decide on the color cause once you tear it down for body and paint.. the project will grow.. especially if doing a "proper" color change. I like the current yellow because its different, although the orange (Blut Orange) is always a winner... the light blue met, or Minerva blue is nice too. Personally, since the car is modified anyway, I really wouldn't sweat it being the original color.. besides the solid colors will always be an easier panel match should you ever need to do so, or swap-out components like spoilers, bumpers etc..

As far as your engine build, you could always go to JE etc.. they should be able to build what you want/need.

hey just my thoughts..

[Modian]

I'm 99% sure I'm going to keep the yellow. I like bright cars and this seems to be the perfect shade of yellow. Not orange-ish, not red-ish, just straight yellow.

Also, decided the 3.6 isn't worth it. I'm going to try to keep the 3.1 if I can, and go 3.2ss if not.

Finally, I have an opportunity for a Polar Silver 964 that I'm trying to close on. Already setup for DE / Stock Club race. Hopefully it works out, as I'd get into the car I've always wanted in a color that seems to be pretty rare.

[smdubovsky]

A silver porsche is rare? I believe it was the most common color (along w/ black and red)

[Modian]

No, a silver Porsche is not rare, but a silver 964 appears to be. Most seem to be red, black, or white. Polar silver was a special order color, and I’ve seen more green ones for sale then Polar over the last couple years.

I actually don’t like silver cars (he says as he drives a silver truck and a silver grey M3) but I really like the blue undertones in Polar.

[cmartin]

Its weird how it works, I dont like red cars. I have a red car.

Curious what turned you off to the 3.6, too turn key?

[Modian]

If I could do it myself, it might still be on the table. But I don’t have the room or the fabrication tools or the fabrication skills for anything not covered in a conversion kit. So I reached out for some quotes and everyone seems to be around $30k for the conversion, including engine. And that’s for a stock 993 engine at 280hp.

My current engine is 210hp stock and who knows what it has now. Regardless, is 70hp and some mid range torque worth 30k? Is it worth above what a 3.2ss and cams would be? Or is it worth above what a rebuild and cams would be? It seems hard to imagine.

I drove around yesterday and today and I don’t really need more power. From 4K to 6.5k, the car moves pretty well and doesn’t feel underpowered. The only time I really wish for more power is getting to 4K, especially with the huge drop in revs from first to second. Once I drop some more weight and start approaching 10:1 power to weight or lower, I think it’ll be pretty good. I also plan to take it to Behe soon to get it properly tuned and see where it’s at.

So, I’d still love to do it, but it doesn’t seem cost effective in the current air cooled climate. Better to buy one already converted. There’s one currently on Pelican for 40k.