[AznDrgn]

So what started as a simple task, replacing an exhaust manifold and gasket, on my 2001 Dakota has turned into a bit of a nightmare. I broke a stud in the head so I decided to drill it out and ended up ruining the threads so I figured I would just install a helicoil. As I was cleaning up the hole to install the helicoil I ended up nicking the water jacket. Does anyone know of a thread repair that would hold up and be water tight? Maybe something like a time sert but solid on the end? Otherwise my only other solution would be to replace the head. I'm selling the truck so I want to minimize my expenses but I don't want to pass along something that I know is flat out wrong.

Thanks in advance for the advice.

[Trak Ratt]

^ sorry can't help with repair. But it might be less expensive and hazel to just replace the motor. Crazy Ray's this side of Baltmore sells complete engines ~$500. Might be able to find one more locally for about the same.

[Vicegrip]

Originally Posted by AznDrgn

So what started as a simple task, replacing an exhaust manifold and gasket, on my 2001 Dakota has turned into a bit of a nightmare. I broke a stud in the head so I decided to drill it out and ended up ruining the threads so I figured I would just install a helicoil. As I was cleaning up the hole to install the helicoil I ended up nicking the water jacket. Does anyone know of a thread repair that would hold up and be water tight? Maybe something like a time sert but solid on the end? Otherwise my only other solution would be to replace the head. I'm selling the truck so I want to minimize my expenses but I don't want to pass along something that I know is flat out wrong.

Thanks in advance for the advice.

If you can't find a timecert that has a solid bottom you can make one with a Mig welder. Just pothole weld the end shut.

[AznDrgn]

Originally Posted by Trak Ratt

^ sorry can't help with repair. But it might be less expensive and hazel to just replace the motor. Crazy Ray's this side of Baltmore sells complete engines ~$500. Might be able to find one more locally for about the same.

Trying to minimize work and expenses as the truck is pretty much sold. I can get a used cylinder head for ~$150 but I prefer to keep the existing head as I know it's in good shape and would require minimal work to go back on.

Originally Posted by Vicegrip

If you can't find a timecert that has a solid bottom you can make one with a Mig welder. Just pothole weld the end shut.

Never having used a timecert would it be water tight in an aluminum head through heat cycles?

[cmartin]

Lots of similar repairs completed with various sealants. To me getting good threads are the key. Then just put on something like high temp permatex. If it doesnt hold, bet it does, plan b.

[AznDrgn]

Well I guess only one way to find out. Timecert sounds a lot faster than pulling the head and changing it out. When I get the inserts anyone have a few minutes to spare to weld up one or two of them? I'd be glad to pay you for your time.

[Charlie Stylianos]

How big is the "nick"? If small, maybe some traditional JBWeld epoxy (rated 500 degrees) to fill the void prior to installing the timecert. It does flow little prior to hardening. Also JB Stick is a moldable putty and sets faster. Only rated @300 degrees. I agree welding is probably the best fix, but when in a pinch.....

[BillC]

A lot of older American engines have studs going into water jackets, and they make sealants just for that situation -- any FLAPS should have it. I would recommend putting the sealant on the timecert before you install it, and then put sealant on the stud as you install that. Just look for high-temp sealant, since it'll be close to the exhaust port.

Originally Posted by Vicegrip

If you can't find a timecert that has a solid bottom you can make one with a Mig welder. Just pothole weld the end shut.

A time-sert won't install properly with the end welded up. You need to be able to run the installation/expansion tool all the way down or the time-sert won't lock into place. You might be able to get away with it not being locked-in, but you run the risk of the time-sert unscrewing next time instead of the stud.

[Vicegrip]

^ True but we are talking an old not high value truck.

Tap the head hole and clean it up well. Screw the cleaned time cert onto a bolt with a nut to act as a stopper. Put a thin coat of JB weld or similar on the head threads, butter the time cert threads up and install to desired depth. Hold bolt head while backing off the nut, remove bolt, clean up excess JB-weld. Wait a few hours or better yet 24 hours before running the bolt to torque. Sealed and locked in place.

I can plug weld up a couple if you bring them over.

[AznDrgn]

Originally Posted by Charlie Stylianos

How big is the "nick"? If small, maybe some traditional JBWeld epoxy (rated 500 degrees) to fill the void prior to installing the timecert. It does flow little prior to hardening. Also JB Stick is a moldable putty and sets faster. Only rated @300 degrees. I agree welding is probably the best fix, but when in a pinch.....

The nick should be pretty small as it was a very slow small trickle of coolant that came out and it dripped for almost 12 hours before the coolant level got low enough that it stopped.

Originally Posted by BillC

A lot of older American engines have studs going into water jackets, and they make sealants just for that situation -- any FLAPS should have it. I would recommend putting the sealant on the timecert before you install it, and then put sealant on the stud as you install that. Just look for high-temp sealant, since it'll be close to the exhaust port.

A time-sert won't install properly with the end welded up. You need to be able to run the installation/expansion tool all the way down or the time-sert won't lock into place. You might be able to get away with it not being locked-in, but you run the risk of the time-sert unscrewing next time instead of the stud.

Just found the permatex high temp thread sealant for exactly the purpose you described. Thanks! Not too worried about the timesert coming out again. The truck has 150K miles on it so I expect that the next time someone takes that bolt out it will be after the truck is in the junk yard.

Originally Posted by Vicegrip

^ True but we are talking an old not high value truck.

Tap the head hole and clean it up well. Screw the cleaned time cert onto a bolt with a nut to act as a stopper. Put a thin coat of JB weld or similar on the head threads, butter the time cert threads up and install to desired depth. Hold bolt head while backing off the nut, remove bolt, clean up excess JB-weld. Wait a few hours or better yet 24 hours before running the bolt to torque. Sealed and locked in place.

I can plug weld up a couple if you bring them over.

Thanks Vicegrip! I will drop you a PM when I get them in and see when is convenient for you.