[OldTee]

It is like Mats except Mats is a better unit. It goes as high as his does. It raised the car high enough to slip the engine under then we lowered the car to complete the installation. You can sit for most things you want to sit for. Come see it. I'll explain its good points and bad points, and there are a few.
ARF

[jpinkert]

Originally Posted by Kurt Mickelwait

Fully convertable. take 2 runs of 12 wide by 2 high C channel steel and weld "pins" to the bottom so the pins will fit into the arms of the lift with the ramps at the right width. This is a drill through and weld from both sides using reinforcmet thing for a strong build. Cut the last 1.5 foot of the C chanel and reweld at an angle to meet the floor when the arms are fully lowered. Tada! ramps like a 4 post and you have not reduced the ceiling clearence other than the car is now sitting on the tires and not the frame. Measure from the frame pickup points to the floor this is the amount you have to add. My car this is about 4.5 inches. An early 911/912 will need 10 foot 4 inches or so to have 6 foot clear under it. You only need 5 feet to tuck a car under so you can easly store 2 P cars or a P car and a daily driver sedan in 10 and a half feet.

The ramps are one of my off season projects. I have the materal which used to be the sides of a set of metal stairs stashed at a health club I used to work for. Packrat and proud of it

I'm not sure if I trust my welding and fabrication skills to take on a project like this. So I'll probably take the plunge on a 4 post lift w/ jack rails and air/hyd jacks for wheel/brake/suspension work.

Has anyone ever dropped a motor using a 4 post lift? Also, can anyone point to installation reference material for a 4 post? My garage floor has a pretty good incline. Works great for runoff when washing cars, but I can't leave a socket on it's side.

[RoninLB]

The Snap-On mid-rise cost $1,400 used in perfect shape. It's below floor level. The concrete edge is 3/4" below floor. A 3/4" plywood sits within and rests on the down lift that gives a flat floor. The large hole at the end is a drain that is covered with diamond plate, but open to the lift floor. The rubber pad is most excellent, much better than 2x4's

[RoninLB]

A steel plate allows the rollers to operate smoothly and I guess prevents stress cracks from the non roller end of the lift. The over sized cement blocks is better than leaving the car solely on the lift for long/days projects. Besides the tub stressing, the lift piston rod may develop pitting if left extended for long periods. The 4 ramps are dialed in to a perfect level for wheel alignments. The car will raise to within 1/2" of the garage door motor.

[RoninLB]

hope I can post more pics

[Andy Clements]

I'd like to add another question onto this thread...

Of those of you that are using the low rise lifts in particular, who is using an electric-hydraulic pump vs. the pneumatic-hydraulic variety? Some of the Rotary and other brand low rise lifts came with the foot-switch style that drives the hydraulic pump via your shop air supply. The mid-rise and higher lifts come with an electrically driven pump to speed up the much taller lift. The advantage of the pneumatic is simplicity, and no electric hook-up or wires with the downside of slower speed (not a huge deal on a short rise). I ask because I'm currently repainting a low rise lift I got for peanuts, but need to replace the pump. I'm curious if anyone has any opinions or experiences with pneumatic vs. electric. Also....if you happen to have an old pump just sitting around collecting dust that you are dying to get rid of cheap.....please let me know!

Thanks,
Andy Clements
'84 944

[Vicegrip]

I just so happen to have an entire power unit and it is for sale at $0.00.

[OldTee]

Eagle Eyes said "The advantage of the pneumatic is simplicity, and no electric hook-up or wires with the downside of slower speed "

Mine is elect/hyd. I call it pump on a pole. I don't have a dog in this hunt and don't know which is best but it seems to me that a compressor driven unit adds complexity since you need power to make the air, a tank to store it and you have the added problem of air lines, which leak. Right now my sissors lift is being used by my wife as a table for a garage sale this Sat/Sunday. "It makes a nice table," she offered to my observation on its value.
ARF

[Trak Ratt]

Originally Posted by OldTee

"It makes a nice table," she offered to my observation on its value.

Raise it a foot and lets call it a bar, then party!

[OldTee]

What a grand idea. Hold up a Porsche, fix it, then hold up a glass or two of malt, then fix that!
ARF ur burp