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  #11  
Old 07-29-2014, 01:40 PM
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Have to say that Bill Love game me some PF pads to try out and I've used them ever since. Far better compounds and performance for my car, and none of the fussiness of the Pagids.
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  #12  
Old 07-29-2014, 01:45 PM
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^ x2. I've been using PFCs for over a year. Very happy with them and they've been lasting a long time. Some say they wear out rotors faster but I haven't noticed a big difference.
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  #13  
Old 07-29-2014, 02:15 PM
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x3 on the PFC's. Have been a big fan of PF-97's, but they are being replaced by newer compounds. I've grabbed a pretty good stock of PF-97's for my 944's. But down to last set for the Boxster. Have a set PF-14's to try when the time comes.
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  #14  
Old 07-29-2014, 02:24 PM
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x4
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  #15  
Old 07-29-2014, 02:47 PM
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I switched a few years back to Hawk HT-10s and have been much happier. No more fuched rotors due to Pagid pad deposits. Gave up a bit of initial bite, though.
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  #16  
Old 07-29-2014, 03:01 PM
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X5 on PFCs, ran them on Cayenne brakes for my B5 S4 avant, on the 335d and now on Miata. I managed to run two seasons, maybe 2.5 even, before having to change them. That's about 80 days on track.
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  #17  
Old 07-29-2014, 03:12 PM
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Like BlackTalon, I switched to the Hawk HT-10s a number of years ago, and loved them. Tried PF-97s and they seemed to lock up more, so went back to the HT-10s. Was convinced to try one of the newer compound PFs (06's) by Mark Francis at OG Racing (this compound is NOT available for my 911, but OG has been having them made specially for 911s). Very similar to the HT-10s. I'm a hair more likely to lock up the wheels than with the HT-10s but that is mostly me, and they don't have quite as sharp a bite as the HT-10s, but the differences are subtle and my lap times are actually better (of course, perhaps my driving has improved). They last much longer than the Hawk HT-10s and my rotors last twice as long (at least). I'm a fan!
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  #18  
Old 07-29-2014, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by APKhaos View Post
The object of the exercise is to get the pads up to temperature. Rather than extreme speed/slow cycles which can be dicey on public roads I always used left foot braking which got the pads bedded while using throttle to hold reasonably consistent speed. Best with no following traffic to be confused by brake lights.

Follow the same cycle of heating and cooling of course.
What he said... though I like Talons idea too (but I've used up all my luck for now ) note: don't worry about the brake light, most don't notice it anyway
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  #19  
Old 07-29-2014, 03:29 PM
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Back in the day, we used to "bed in" a set of new track pads by sticking them in the oven on the top rack, with the broiler on high. Of course....its best if you're single at the time.
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Currently
- 1984 944 SP2 racer
- 1977 911 KM Special vintage racer
- 2000 Boxster S (now mine)
- 1995 993 (garage queen)
- 2007 Cayman S (wife's track beast)
- 2017 F350 (tow monster)
- 2018 Jeep Wrangler
- 1982 911 Targa (resurrection in process)
Gone but not forgotten
- 1989 944S2
- 1979 RX7
- 1986 944
- 1991 944S2 (in car heaven...)
- 2001 Chevy Suburban 2500 (FIL's beast now)
- 2012 Cayman R
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  #20  
Old 07-29-2014, 03:35 PM
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We do ours at SP/WG/NJMP, etc. The first lap after replacement go out at the end of the train. One or two stops from 90-100 to 50 and then let it rip. I have done what Pagid says on the street and it made no difference in getting the annoying deposit on rotor for a street driven car. I will not use pagid on a non-track dedicated car.
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