[joep]

Never suspected moisture before, certainly no smell of it. Just checked and it feels dry everywhere.

I did just notice a couple of things however. While the car is parked after I opened the door the radio had a red led light blinking in the middle of the buttons. Never noticed that signal before. The radio turned on when i pressed the button (no ign key) but the flashing was new to me. Also just realized the front boot light is burnt out. If its burnt that couldn't still be a draw could it? I'll replace it regardless and look closer at the radio as well.

[joep]

Pulled the radio fuse and replaced the broken lamp. Since pulling the fuse and monitoring the voltage the car has started fine and even gained a few points while sitting for an hour or so. Up from about ~12.25v after running for 1-2 mins to ~12.50v w/o the radio fuse installed. I haven't tried any other fuses yet and this is a likely culprit but I'm pretty sure its close. If it fires up in the morning I'll know it for sure.

[joep]

Nuts!!
Kept the radio unplugged all night. Voltage was upto 12.60 cold, then I opened the car. voltage dropped to ~12.14 after I unlocked it. It turned over 1st try to engage the starter but not the starter ground on and on without starting! I kept at it and grudgingly the motor started but now I don't know what to it think. After parking at work I tried it and its starts normally again. Does this rule out the radio?

[joep]

Ugh.

Replaced the battery finally last night. Found some moisture underneath it but it rained yesterday morning too. There were no others of water in the trunk. Could have rolled in when I opened the boot after parking yesterday morning.

Starting voltage was about 12.65v. 1st turn was nothing but odd dash lights. 2nd turn and thereafter was fine.

This AM starting voltage was still 12.65v. 1st turn only odd dash lights and the security alarm LED blinked like a mad mother, the starter didn't engage. 2nd turn fired right up.

So the one consistent trait is that it needs a cold start to demonstrate the symptoms.

[Trak Ratt]

My money is still on the switch. But it sounds like you might want to clean the electrical connections on the starter too.

[jrj3rd]

Ken

Do you have another key?? When nothing responds when you turn the key, and you said you already replaced the switch a couple of days ago, it makes me think the immobilizer is kicking in. I wonder if the problem lies with the chip reader or the chip, and it takes a second for the car to recognize that you have a valid key. If the problem goes away with your second key that could point to the rfid chip in your current key. Don't know a good way to check the reader, but would bet that a PST2 or PIWIS (maybe Durametric) would be able to validate that the car is seeing the key chip.

[joep]

I have 2nd key and easy to try. I'll use it in the morning and see what happens.

David which switch do you mean? The ignition switch was changed out this past weekend.

[Dr K]

This was clearly not the battery. Are you giving the "old" one away?

[joep]

No. Just trying to rule out all possibilities. Some here are saying that the battery can still account for the symptoms.

My intent is to return the new one but it does have more CCA and its new. Are you interested in it?

[joep]

Day 2 of new battery and so close and Yet so far!

Battery had 12.65v last night. I installed a new starter relay switch as well last night. Tested right away and the car started fine but it was warm.

This AM recorded battery still at 12.65v

Used spare key to start and it turned over normally first try!!!

Pulled out of garage and did usual morning car shuffle. 2nd start after running only long enough to back down driveway is right back to NUTS! Turned spare key & my regular key several times and nothing. Again it eventually started and ran normally.

Parked it for work and testing battery while running around ~13.80v with radio & lights on.
Shut-off and locked it settled to 12.90v with no noticeable drop for a minute.