[jerome951]

Originally Posted by Dr K

I'm planning on installing a quick-release hub, but unless I go with a $$$$ one that has an electronics pass-through connector (they have them, but I've never seen anyone use one), what solutions have people used for hooking up a horn button? I know it's a race car, but it's still street legal, and I will be driving it as a backup vehicle on occasion. One alternative is to just put a momentary-close switch on the dash.

Sparco makes a button adaptor (http://ogracing.com/catalog/2-Car/33...NG-CONTROL-KIT), but it hooks to the wheel, rather than the hub.

I put a momentary switch on the dash. Not sure if it's completely DOT legal, but works for me.

Nice thing about the removable wheel (for me, at least) is additional theft deterrence since my car is parked outside.

[Dr K]

Originally Posted by Lucky

For reference, here is a "before" picture -- back when K's race car was mostly a street machine:

Also before the accident. Also before the H4, wheels, rear tail, etc. were removed. But...it looked really, really nice (nicer than it looks now, but presumably slower, too). Why again did you sell it???

[N Fotouhi]

Good work. I think that I saw it at SC, but did not stop by for inspection.

[Lucky]

Originally Posted by Dr K

Why again did you sell it???

We all have our moments of temporary insanity...

Truth be told: I had my fun with that car and it was time to try something new. I'm starting to feel the same way about the Boxster now... time for a new experience.

[Dr K]

Well, got the weight on the car: 2340 with slightly more than 3/4 tank of gas (so probably 2250 dry). Add 190 lb. driver, about 100 pounds of equipment (driver's suit, cool suit, helmet, Hans - glad I didn't get the CF one...) and I still need about 270 lbs. to get to the Club Race Stock E weight of 2810 lbs. Figure I'll always have a few pounds of gas in it because of fuel starvation issues so I'm planning on adding one each of the following steel plates: 2" x 1' x 2', 1" x 1' x 2', and 1/2" x 1' x 2', weighing 160, 80, and 40 pounds, respectively. I might have them split the 2" plate into 2 1" plates (so 3 one-inch plates and 1 half-inch plate) just to make these easier to handle. Will bolt to the floor, and might have a mighty-high passenger seat. Will use FOUR 1" bolts that I'll order from McMaster-Carr.

This is how Charley Murphy does it, although he used to use smaller bolts. The 1" bolts from McMaster are available in thread of 8 or 14 - I figure go with the 14 as that will get more threads on, and I could conceivably use half-height nuts (still 1/2" thick") with LockTite. If I did the latter, there would be more room under the seat and/or under the car, and I doubt the forces would be enough to strip them. We're talking 4-1/2" long bolts with the half-height nuts, or 5" bolts with full-height (1-3/64 thick).

Please feel free to make suggestions if you know anything about this stuff (if you don't know anything about this stuff, just post insults or nothing rather than incorrect suggestions, please). Nothing is ordered yet.

[BlackTalon]

Originally Posted by Dr K

Well, got the weight on the car: 2340 with slightly more than 3/4 tank of gas (so probably 2250 dry). Add 190 lb. driver, about 100 pounds of equipment (driver's suit, cool suit, helmet, Hans - glad I didn't get the CF one...) and I still need about 270 lbs. to get to the Club Race Stock E weight of 2810 lbs. Figure I'll always have a few pounds of gas in it because of fuel starvation issues so I'm planning on adding one each of the following steel plates: 2" x 1' x 2', 1" x 1' x 2', and 1/2" x 1' x 2', weighing 160, 80, and 40 pounds, respectively. I might have them split the 2" plate into 2 1" plates (so 3 one-inch plates and 1 half-inch plate) just to make these easier to handle. Will bolt to the floor, and might have a mighty-high passenger seat. Will use FOUR 1" bolts that I'll order from McMaster-Carr.

Uh oh, sounds like you'll need to redo the corner balancing... (or has it not yet been done?)

[joep]

Originally Posted by Dr K

Please feel free to make suggestions if you know anything about this stuff (if you don't know anything about this stuff, just post insults or nothing rather than incorrect suggestions, please). Nothing is ordered yet.

What a lazy, ill planned, piece -o- crap effort!!

My Grandpa once built a better tractor from spare parts and a Ford differential. (true story, wish I had pictures right now...)

And I'm sure it pulled more wood too!!

[Dr K]

Changed my mind after looking at notes from Charlie. Will go with (3) 1" thick plates and (1) 1/2" thick plate, but the thinner plate will actually be (2) 1' x 1' pieces per recommendation from Charlie. That will also give me the option of the forward 1' being an inch thicker so the part sticking under the seat will be only 2" thick.

Will need to remount the fire extinguisher (so there will be a nice Brey-Krause mount--that slides forward and back with the seat--on the market soon).

[BlackTalon]

Originally Posted by Dr K

Will need to remount the fire extinguisher (so there will be a nice Brey-Krause mount--that slides forward and back with the seat--on the market soon).

Let me know when you are ready to sell this, as I need to get the extinguisher I bought a couple seasons ago mounted one of these years...

[Dr K]

No response on the thread pit question? 1" bolts - fine pitch or coarse? Need to order TODAY.