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  #501  
Old 04-12-2010, 12:22 AM
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Successful weekend of a smaller amount of car work. Starting yesterday, I matched the wire colors and pulled the new harness through into the trunk:

Name:  DME Harness Wires pulled into trunk.jpg
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Then covered the wire with fire-resistant covering in the passenger compartment:

Name:  DME Harness in passenger compartment.jpg
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I mounted the DME to the firewall. Placed "studs" by putting bolt in (hardest part - working behind the torsion bar tube) and tightening a nut down on it.

Name:  DME Studs in Place.jpg
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Then I used the neoprene washers to damp the vibration a bit:

Name:  DME Isolation Mount.jpg
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and here's the DME in place:

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Then I soldered the wires to the real harness and covered them with shrink tubing (after tranfering the labels to the end of the wires in the trunk):

Name:  Soldering Done.jpg
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I've officially taken over my wife's half of the garage--with her blessing, hoping I get the car done eventually...

Name:  Garage take-over.jpg
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I will need help putting the engine in the car soon. And I'd like some advice on how to get the charcoal canister out of the system (plugs or bypass??) - don't want to be the next Dick S...
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  #502  
Old 04-12-2010, 12:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazzbass View Post
If you really want something good it should be a Weller in a light blue color. Everything else is, well, crap.
What's the deal with the light blue? I've got a Weller, but it's black. And it's a piece of crap.
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  #503  
Old 04-12-2010, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Lupin..the..3rd View Post
What's the deal with the light blue? I've got a Weller, but it's black. And it's a piece of crap.
The light blue ones, like the one Lucky linked to, are their professional line. These are the ones that pretty much anyone who solders for living uses. Night and day difference between them and the crap you guys get at Radio Shack for $10. You know how everyone likes the gun because it takes 10 min for an iron to heat up? My Weller (the same as above w/o temp control) heats up in about 30s, and then stays a consistent temp for as long as it's on.
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  #504  
Old 04-12-2010, 08:58 AM
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The only problem with the mounting location of the DME is if you run in the rain. Rain water blowing in the window is going to get into the plug connections and possibly inside the DME box without a protective case. Not good for electronics.
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  #505  
Old 04-12-2010, 09:05 AM
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Nice job Peter. The car is really coming along!
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  #506  
Old 04-12-2010, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by KevinOyler View Post
The only problem with the mounting location of the DME is if you run in the rain.
I thought the same thing (water will pool in the connector). I'd flip it 180 so the connector is on the bottom and the connector shroud keeps water out.
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  #507  
Old 04-12-2010, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazzbass View Post
The light blue ones, like the one Lucky linked to, are their professional line. These are the ones that pretty much anyone who solders for living uses.
Jazz is right. Night and day. Though I'd take offense to his choice of brand for people who solder for a living Every company I've ever worked for (3) has universally hated the blue wellers. The elements fail and temp reg suck. A Hakko or Pace w/ a ceramic core seem to last 10x longer and heat faster (and are very easily & cheaply replaceable when even they eventually go)

Though if you're not soldering a lot and are a car person, I'd actually recommend a portasol butane powered iron first. Works anywhere and can heat up and crank out a couple wires before you even found an extension cord for a wired model. Not efficient at wiring a car though. Same deal: night and day difference between a good one and a radioshack model.
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  #508  
Old 04-12-2010, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smdubovsky View Post
Jazz is right. Night and day. Though I'd take offense to his choice of brand for people who solder for a living Every company I've ever worked for (3) has universally hated the blue wellers. The elements fail and temp reg suck. A Hakko or Pace w/ a ceramic core seem to last 10x longer and heat faster (and are very easily & cheaply replaceable when even they eventually go)

Though if you're not soldering a lot and are a car person, I'd actually recommend a portasol butane powered iron first. Works anywhere and can heat up and crank out a couple wires before you even found an extension cord for a wired model. Not efficient at wiring a car though. Same deal: night and day difference between a good one and a radioshack model.
Except, I'd run out of butane just when I need it. Like my fancy digital air pressure gauge (With a dead battery) that hangs on my wall next to the one that I use all the time!
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  #509  
Old 04-12-2010, 09:42 AM
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By the way, Great Job Doc!






Quote:
Originally Posted by William Miller View Post
Except, I'd run out of butane just when I need it. Like my fancy digital air pressure gauge (With a dead battery) that hangs on my wall next to the one that I use all the time!
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  #510  
Old 04-12-2010, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinOyler View Post
The only problem with the mounting location of the DME is if you run in the rain. Rain water blowing in the window is going to get into the plug connections and possibly inside the DME box without a protective case. Not good for electronics.
I disagree, though I would have mounted it a little higher and turned it 90 with the plug toward the inside facing up. Remember the stock location is under the seat. And on older cars you can almost always find water there after a heavy rain. Either way, easy fix using a fabed mount and using the existing bolts. Which are nicely isolated and done.
<O</O

I'll see if I can find the pic I have of how the factory mounted the DME on the 964 Cups <O
<O</O
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